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Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=john5150]I always close the throttle for fear of a tank slapper.[/QUOTE]
You should get in the habit of coming down from a wheelie ON the throttle. If you engine brake on the way down it may cause you to go over the front of your bike, resulting in pain.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=TempTagg]You should get in the habit of coming down from a wheelie ON the throttle. If you engine brake on the way down it may cause you to go over the front of your bike, resulting in pain.[/QUOTE]It always comes down real smooth, I am not completely closing it just enough to bring the front down. I haven't been doing wheelies long so I am still learning (still growing balls to hit that bp). I can only do power up wheelies in first so far. Thanks for the help.

John

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

when in doubt refer to the manual

[url]http://stuntragz.com/Templates/video.htm[/url]

wheelies from dummies...great insight from dummies Kyle Woods and Matt Gorka :laughing

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

If you lower your tire pressure to do wheelies.....will that affect your evryday riding abilites? anyone.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

[QUOTE=rws600]If you lower your tire pressure to do wheelies.....will that affect your evryday riding abilites? anyone.[/QUOTE]

That depends on how much you lower your pressure and what kind of riding you consider "normal". If you are out dragging knee it might make a difference, i just cruise around town and i dont notice any difference. When you lower tire pressure it wears out the outsides of the tire faster than normal.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

I've just been gettin the whole bp thing down..been riding for about a year now...just got a cbr 1000 and second gear feels way to twitchy i mean i can ride it sitting but standing in second is crazy..the bike comes up at like 5- 10 mph if i clutch it...somtimes i hit it and sometimes i don't..but third i can walk that till i'm doin 120 sticks everytime clutchin it at 50 or 60.....what i'm tryin to figure out is when the bike feels like its gonna flip (almost weight-less) like its floating is that the balance point or is that passed the balance point cause i usually get scared in second an just let the throttle go or tap the break n come down.?? any help on this one...??
dave :shruggs

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

VERY INFORMATIVE
THANKS!!!

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

NEVERMIND...i think i figured it out...i've been pullin my bike up in third gear doin about 30 now...it floats up nice (need to get a stunt ride don't wanna see 10 g's flippin down the street) anyway...i get it up pull on the bars a lil bit..wobbles then str8ens out..i get it at the "balance point" i think and all i gotta do is just hold the throttle still and just ease on the back brake and it stays pretty still but..the only thing is its just so hard to keep at the point where i don't have to speed up to keep it up.....but w/e i'll get it..after i get my other bike...

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiicccceeee :yeah

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

That was pretty detailed. I've been trying to get my first wheelie for awhile now and just can't seem to get it up. Thanks for the tips, I will adjust some things and let you know how it goes.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

[QUOTE=cero]NEVERMIND...i think i figured it out...i've been pullin my bike up in third gear doin about 30 now...it floats up nice (need to get a stunt ride don't wanna see 10 g's flippin down the street) anyway...i get it up pull on the bars a lil bit..wobbles then str8ens out..i get it at the "balance point" i think and all i gotta do is just hold the throttle still and just ease on the back brake and it stays pretty still but..the only thing is its just so hard to keep at the point where i don't have to speed up to keep it up.....but w/e i'll get it..after i get my other bike...[/QUOTE]

DO NOT PULL ON THE BARS.

The bike will do all the work for you. I think you should learn in 2nd, while it is twitchy it also offers much more engine braking in case you forget to cover the rear brake.

The bike should ride straight up to BP if you clutch it enough no work is needed by you just keep your body position steady and use the throttle.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

[QUOTE=doubledealaz]LOL!!!!!! yeah, i was trying out those tips last night....
first couple landings werent anything, then the last time, i went up to about 10 o'clock and came down hard...watch out for your nads!!!! or wear a cup...either way, you'll wanna have kids someday right?[/QUOTE]

To prevent hard landings always make sure after you get down to about 9:30 you go back on the throttle at least a little so that your forks don't compress so much.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

Its funny to see someone who cant do a wheelie give advice, one post asking for help then giving advice in another post you got to be kidding rite, i have my first gear wheelies down can do them anytime and ride them out but for the life of me i cant shift to second and i cant get it up in second i am starting to get it up in second now but only when i am just shifting into second but it feels harsh to me and i am wondering if this is the rite way cause it feels like i get the most power just i shift into second in first i pretty much ride it till i feel like the power band i guess an then slip the clutch an it floats up every time but in second i try do the same thing like ride it in second till i feel the rpm like wanna when i am ready to shift but nothin happens when i slip it then is the most power to get it up is in the beginning of second or should i be able to get it up from any point in second how can you tell when you are in the rite power band

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

I'm having a hard time get the wheelies up on my zx6r. The only way i know how is to get it at 71/2 rpm and give it gas is it easyer to do a stand up. I think i'm going to try cluching but i don't want to go over. If you have any more hints throw thim this way.

P.S. To the guy how wrote all of that thing you

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

How Do You Find A Good Balance Point To Ride Good Whelies On A 2 Stroke Dirt Bike

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

[QUOTE=powershifta]How Do You Find A Good Balance Point To Ride Good Whelies On A 2 Stroke Dirt Bike[/QUOTE]

Sit back and use the rear brake, or stand and lean way back use the brake again, take a while to get it sweet but practic makes perfect.

thats my :2cents works sweet for me.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=f4rider]First of all, I learned all of this from my own experience and from the advice of others on this forum. Following this advice won’t keep you from crashing, getting hurt, and breaking stuff; but it will, most likely, help you learn faster while crashing less often than if you figure everything out on your own.

Bike setup for wheelies

Oil: Many bikes will become oil starved when riding long wheelies, and doing 12 o-clock wheelies. Gixxers and cbr 900s ('93-'95 893cc model) are the most notorious for this. To keep the bike from becoming oil starved, either move the oil pickup in the oil pan back, or overfill the oil. Myself and some others on this forum run 1 quart over. Overfilling doesn't seem to cause any problems with hondas, but I have read of problems with gixxers as a result of this. So the best thing for a gixxer would probably be to fix the oil pickup. You can buy modified oil pickups for gixxers from [url]www.stuntex.com[/url] .

Gears: For learning, gearing the bike down is unnecessary. Almost every sportbike will wheelie in first gear without any problem (maybe the ex250 is an exception). Also gearing to make second gear come up easier is kind of pointless because it just becomes more like first gear with big sprockets. If it doesn’t wheelie in first gear, it isn’t the bike’s fault. For the most part, gears are unnecessary until you are ready to learn highchairs (on a weak 600), no throttle hand wheelies, and circles.

Tires: When doing high-speed wheelies make sure you have a good rear tire. A tire with a flat spot in the middle can cause wobbles. I learned wheelies on a rear tire that was almost down to the cords in the middle, and it would often wobble like crazy when doing balance point wheelies. A new tire almost completely eliminated that problem. Run the tire pressure lower than stock. For doing wheelies above 20 mph, have the tire pressure between 20 and 30psi. For doing wheelies slower than 20 mph, lower the pressure to between 12 and 20. 18-20 psi makes for a good all around psi. Lower tire pressure makes the wheelie more stable from side to side.

Tip over sensor: Most (or all, I’m not sure) bikes with fuel injection have a tip over sensor. This can cause the bike to shut off when riding wheelies high. This should be disabled. For Hondas this can be done by cutting the wires going into the sensor, connecting the two outer wires, and leaving the middle one hanging. For gixxers, that method doesn’t work. The brass ring in the sensor must be removed, or immobilized with something such as silicone.

Steering Damper: While it isn’t imperative that you have a steering damper for doing wheelies, it might save your ass. If you come down from a wheelie with the front wheel crooked, it could cause a tank slapper. This shouldn’t be a problem, though; if you make sure the front wheel is strait when you put it down.

Exhaust pipe: If learning 12s, the pipe may have to be shortened. The stock pipes on some bikes touch the ground at about the same time as the tail when doing a 12 o-clock wheelie. If the pipe hits the ground, it may cause you to crash. My friend just went down a week ago because of this. The pipe can be shortened by simply cutting a few inches off the end of the pipe, and then re-welding / re-riveting the end of the pipe back on. Short pipes can also be bought from [url]www.starboyz.com[/url].

Cage: In the process of learning to ride wheelies good, you will most likely drop your bike. Crash cages provide the best protection. All of these cages will most likely save you a lot of money if you crash, but none of them will completely protect your bike in every crash. Here is a list of some crash cage websites in no particular order.
MXD cages [url]http://eclipsebusiness.net/mxdcages.com/[/url]
Racing 905 Cages [url]http://www.racing905.com[/url]
Powers Cages [url]http://www.powersbikeworx.com/[/url]
Freestyle Ingenuity Cages [url]http://www.freestyleingenuity.com/[/url]
Wicked Crew Extreme Team's Cages [url]http://cantcuffus.com/cages_pics.htm[/url]

12 bar: Install a 12 bar if you plan on learning 12s. There was some debate as to whether or not to learn 12s with a 12 bar. I learned 12s with a bar and didn’t have any problems. You just need to be more careful because a bar is less forgiving than plastic. However, I think tail sections cost way too much to smash on purpose. You can buy 12 bars from Racing 905 or Freestyle Ingenuity. They are also pretty simple to build yourself, at a fraction of the cost.

Protection: Wear a helmet, jacket, jeans, and gloves if you don’t want to get messed up.

Before riding wheelies on a bike
If you have access to a quad, a dirt bike, or a fiddy, learn wheelies on that first. What you learn about throttle control and the balance point will help you in learning to ride a wheelie on a bike. If you’re ready to learn on a bike then: 1. Make sure the rear brake works and adjust the lever to a comfortable height. 2. There should be 1in. of play in chain slack. A chain too tight or too loose will wear out the chain and sprockets faster than normal. 3. Make sure there are no cracks in the foot pegs, and make sure all of the bolts are tight.

Speed and riding position for learning wheelies
I recommend that beginners learn wheelies if first gear. It is easier to launch the wheelie in first gear, and there is more engine breaking in first gear. This means that you can ride a wheelie higher without the danger of looping it. It also hurts much less and breaks less stuff when you crash in first gear. For that reason i don't think it is a good idea to do highspeed wheelies until using the brake is second nature. It is also much easier to go from riding out first gear wheelies to second gear wheelies than vice versa. The only downfall to learning wheelies in first vs. seconds is that the wheelie won’t be as smooth. The throttle will feel much more sensitive. I think fifteen mph is a good speed to launch wheelies while learning; any slower and the wheelie may feel unstable to a beginner. I also recommend learning wheelies standing up with the left foot on the passenger peg, and the right foot on the front peg, covering the brake. While it may feel awkward at first to wheelie while standing, it will be easier after you get used to that part. Most people think it is easier to balance and control a wheelie standing up vs. sitting down. It is also easier to launch the wheelie from standing up.

Why clutching wheelies is the best method for launching wheelies
Clutching is by far the best way to get wheelies up, regardless of whether the bike has enough power to power it up. While it does wear out clutch plates a little faster than normal, the difference is not significant. I also have never read about any major problems as the result of the extra tension on the drive train. There are many advantages to clutching wheelies vs. powering wheelies. 1. It allows you to wheelie bikes that don’t have enough power to power it up. 2. You can wheelie at lower rpm’s, and therefore slower speeds. This allows beginners to keep a wheelie up longer, with out being at the balance point. 3. The launch is more predictable. When powering a wheelie up, the front end comes up relatively slow. Then when the front end is about 3 feet off the ground, the front end jumps up very fast under full throttle, making for a scary and unpredictable launch. When clutching up wheelies right, the front jumps up close to the balance point. From there you just play with the throttle to fine adjust the height. After a little practice, clutching becomes very predictable and not frightening at all. 4. All of the pros that I know of clutch every wheelie. You want to be like them don’t you? :)

How to clutch wheelies
There are a couple different methods for clutching wheelies. I prefer the second method.
Method 1: First accelerate with the clutch engaged. Then, with the throttle still opened, pull in the clutch with one finger, to the point where the clutch disengages. With the engine still under throttle, quickly let the clutch back out as the tach is rising.
Method 2: Close the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way, with one finger. Then twist the throttle and dump the clutch.
When learning to clutch, only rev up the engine a little bit at first before letting out the clutch. This will give you the feel for clutching. Then gradually increase the rpm’s before dumping the clutch, until the front end jumps up close to the balance point. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point. If it comes up too far, gently push the rear brake to bring the bike back forward. When clutching second and third gear wheelies, the bike may need extra help, depending on what bike it is. If clutching alone doesn’t get the wheelie up, then bounce at the same time. This is done by pushing down on the bike (with your arms and legs) at the same time you open the throttle, and then leaning back slightly when dropping the clutch. I is not a good idea to pull on the bars. Pulling up on the bars may cause the wheelie to come up funny and wobble.

Shifting gears
I don’t recommend shifting gears during a wheelie unless you are good at wheelies, and are able to use the clutch in the process. Otherwise, shifting during wheelies is hard on the transmission. It is also hard on the fork seals if you miss a shift. My advice is to learn to ride wheelies at a constant speed. Then there will be no need to shift.

How to set a wheelie down
When bringing down a wheelie, stay on the throttle until the front end is safely on the ground. If it is necessary to quickly bring down the front end, then close the throttle at first. Then as the front is coming down, open the throttle. In that way you will have a soft landing.

Step by step procedure to launch a wheelie for a beginner
1. Drop the tire pressure to about 15-20psi
2. Put the bike into first gear
3. Go about 15mph
4. Pull in the clutch
5. Rev up the engine a little and drop the clutch
6. Repeat step 5, increasing the rpm’s, until the front end comes up close to the balance point.
7. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point.
8. Cover the rear brake.
9. Stay on the throttle as it comes back down.

Balancing the wheelie from front to back
Balancing front to back is controlled by using the throttle and rear brake. It is a good idea to learn this on a quad, fiddy, or dirtbike first. If the wheelie is in front of the balance point, you must increase your speed to remain at that position. To get the wheelie back to the balance point, you must compensate with more throttle. This is the same, only in reverse, when the wheelie is behind the balance point. When behind the balance point, you must use the engine breaking/ rear brake to bring it forward to the balance point. The balance point is the position of the bike in which it neither has to speed up or slow down to remain at the same position. The height of the balance point is affected mainly by the speed of the wheelie. The faster the wheelie is, the lower the balance point. The balance point is also slightly affected by the weight distribution of the bike and the position of the rider. The object of riding a balanced wheelie is to keep the bike as close as possible to the balance point. This is done by rolling on and off the throttle, and pushing the brake if needed. With practice comes the ability to ride a smooth wheelie with out playing with the throttle/brake much.

Balancing the wheelie from side to side
Balancing sided to side is done by adjusting your body position. It is a good idea to learn this on a dirtbike, bicycle, or fiddy first. When riding wheelies over about 20mph, the bike will balance itself for the most part. It is the slow wheelies that you have to consciously balance side to side. The principle is pretty simple. Quickly lean the same direction as the bike is falling. For example, if the bike is starting to fall to the left, you would quickly lean to the left. This movement would twist the bike towards the left, thereby correcting it.

Preventing / stopping wheelie wobbles
From my experience, I think that high speed wheelie wobbles can be caused by having a squared off rear tire, not being smooth on the throttle, and/or making quick movements. Slow speed wobbles seems to be caused by high rear tire pressure, and/or not keeping the wheelie balanced from side to side.

Steering wheelies
To steer wheelies good, you need to either be at the balance point, or behind the balance point. To steer wheelies which are over about 20mph, you simply slowly lean in the direction you want to turn. However, to turn slow wheelies, you must first make the bike lean in the direction which you want to turn. For example, if you want to turn to the right, first, slowly lean to the right. Then quickly lean a little to the left / twist the handlebars a little to the left. This will cause the bike to start to fall to the right. Then, instead of completely correcting the lean, you keep the bike leaning at that angle. This will cause the bike to turn to the right.

Using the rear brake: Slowing wheelies down / 12s
Wheelies are slowed down by riding the wheelie behind the balance point. This is one of the hardest parts of learning to wheelie, not because of skill, but because of the balls required. To learn how to use the rear brake, you basically need to grow some balls, bring the wheelie up behind the balance point, and tap the brake. Soon this process will become second nature. To slow a wheelie down, you must give the bike enough throttle to get the wheelie behind the balance point. Now if you get scared and push the rear break hard at this point, it will quickly bring the wheelie forward without slowing it down much. To slow it down, you must keep it behind the balance point by gently riding the brake. To 12, you just do the same thing, only you get off the rear break enough to allow the bike to lean back on the tail. Unless you plan on parking a 12, make sure you get back on the brake before the wheelie slows down enough to stall the engine.

Riding slow wheelies
After you get good at slowing down wheelies, then you should be able to ride slow wheelies out. First of all, turn up your idle. I do slow stuff with the idle at 3.5k rpm’s. The high idle allows you to ride slow wheelies much smoother. Be careful, however, when first turning up the idle, because you will have to use the rear brake, when going slow, to keep from looping. When riding slow wheelies with the idle high, with some practice, you should be able to ride the wheelie by using the brake, and only blipping the throttle if the wheelie starts to come down.

Once you have learned all of this, all of the wheelie variations will pretty much be self explanatory.

I don’t care if you guys whore this information out on other websites. It would be nice to have some recognition for writing this, but I don’t think I want my name attached to this for legal reasons.
If you know what you are talking about, post up suggestions regarding this post. I will be editing if there is better information/ tips for beginners. Feedback would be nice.[/QUOTE]

Hey guys,
I need some help!! For starters im on my first bike, and handle it well. Now im wanting to do wheelies. I know im gonna get some sh_t about it but I have a 1990 can-o-tuna 600, as some may put it "Katana". Its all i could afford for now. But like ive read in other post, if you can stunt a Katana you can stunt anything. Ok its really frontend heavy. I have been going about 25 mph and going about 6 rpm pulling the clutch in and turning the throtle back till 11rpm the letting the clutch out fast. Most of the time the back tire breaks loose, and my back end fishtails. But I have had it up about a foot, and another time about 2 1/2 feet off the ground. How can I get to the B/P and keep it there, and pull a wheelie all the time instead of here and there? Also can this be done in other gears other than first with my set up??

Hope someone can help me with this!!

Thanks

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=mytfast1]Hey guys,
I need some help!! For starters im on my first bike, and handle it well. Now im wanting to do wheelies. I know im gonna get some sh_t about it but I have a 1990 can-o-tuna 600, as some may put it "Katana". Its all i could afford for now. But like ive read in other post, if you can stunt a Katana you can stunt anything. Ok its really frontend heavy. I have been going about 25 mph and going about 6 rpm pulling the clutch in and turning the throtle back till 11rpm the letting the clutch out fast. Most of the time the back tire breaks loose, and my back end fishtails. But I have had it up about a foot, and another time about 2 1/2 feet off the ground. How can I get to the B/P and keep it there, and pull a wheelie all the time instead of here and there? Also can this be done in other gears other than first with my set up??

Hope someone can help me with this!!

Thanks[/QUOTE]

Maybe your problem is no/not enough weight transfer or you're leaning too far forward. As you let the clutch out, from a position of leaning forward and with your arms bent, lean back and lock your arms. Doing this just as the clutch is let out will help to transfer the weight back, making the front lighter and will also help to keep that tire from slipping. Work slowly and don't rush trying to get to the bp. Get to where you can ride one out confidently. Then work on getting it higher. Be careful when locking your arms out, make sure you go straight back. If you're a bit off to one side your bike could come up crooked. Not good!

:2cents

mez

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=mezcal]Maybe your problem is no/not enough weight transfer or you're leaning too far forward. As you let the clutch out, from a position of leaning forward and with your arms bent, lean back and lock your arms. Doing this just as the clutch is let out will help to transfer the weight back, making the front lighter and will also help to keep that tire from slipping. Work slowly and don't rush trying to get to the bp. Get to where you can ride one out confidently. Then work on getting it higher. Be careful when locking your arms out, make sure you go straight back. If you're a bit off to one side your bike could come up crooked. Not good!

:2cents

mez[/QUOTE]
Thanks MEZ,
Now other people are saying not to sit down, and try a wheelie. Standing up would put more of my weight over the front end dont you think? :YEAH

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=mytfast1]Thanks MEZ,
Now other people are saying not to sit down, and try a wheelie. Standing up would put more of my weight over the front end dont you think? :YEAH[/QUOTE]

Yes initially it will. Rock back and lock your arms when you pop the clutch (not too hard, don't wanna lose throttle control). Same concept. It transfers your weight back and helps lighten the front. I see some in videos bouncing on the pegs a little to get a rebound to lighten the front even more just before popping the clutch. I personally wouldn't bounce on the pegs unless the clutch and leaning back doesn't work. To me it's one more thing to complicate the process and can lead to the bike comin up crooked if not done evenly.
The important thing is not to rush it. Give it several weeks, even if that's just to get the front to pop up and then back down. Each time you try it's a step towards learning the right technique and you gain a little more confidence in your bike and abilities.

now go ride! :mullet

mez

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

Thanks again MEZ ill go out and give it a try. And just take my time. Thanks for your help!!

Scott

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

I've got a question. I watched the Wheelie's for Dummies and they recommended tugging on the bars when pulling them up in 2nd gear. I thought you weren't supposed to pull on the bars when doing a wheelie. I can do 1st gear wheelies like a :apimp but can't get 2nd gear ones up for the life of me!

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=f4rider]First of all, I learned all of this from my own experience and from the advice of others on this forum.........[/QUOTE]

thanks alot f4rider i have a CBR 600f '02 and first i tried the wheelies with my DT 125 but now i think im good at wheelies with my CBR. The only problem i have is by parking 12s... can you help me out on this topic??? :shruggs :banghead

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

I got this site from a stunt video and I have learned more in the last hour of reading than I could have in a month of riding. Great write up! I went out and tried it right after I read it and it worked awesome. Definitely better than the power-up wheelies I had been trying. The only thing is, I'm afraid of looping the bike. When I did my power ups I was only getting them about 1 or 2 feet up and riding them for maybe 30 yards before I fell back down. The first two times I tried to clutch them up I just lurched foreward, then when I dumped the clutch it came right up no problem. Only thing was that it scared the living s**t out of me! cause I had never had one come up that high before. Is there a certain RPM I should be aiming for when I dump the clutch? And is there a better way to postion myself to ride them out? I wanna be able to just get it up and go. Thanks for helpin out the newbie! :hello

BTW, I'm riding a 04 R6. And I've only been riding for about 3 months. So any other pointers you might have would be greatly appreciated!

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

advice:
"Don't let your balls get bigger than your head."

Now get out there and have some fun, just be careful on that pretty new bike of yours.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

[QUOTE=RoadStainR6]I got this site from a stunt video and I have learned more in the last hour of reading than I could have in a month of riding. Great write up! I went out and tried it right after I read it and it worked awesome. Definitely better than the power-up wheelies I had been trying. The only thing is, I'm afraid of looping the bike. When I did my power ups I was only getting them about 1 or 2 feet up and riding them for maybe 30 yards before I fell back down. The first two times I tried to clutch them up I just lurched foreward, then when I dumped the clutch it came right up no problem. Only thing was that it scared the living s**t out of me! cause I had never had one come up that high before. Is there a certain RPM I should be aiming for when I dump the clutch? And is there a better way to postion myself to ride them out? I wanna be able to just get it up and go. Thanks for helpin out the newbie! :hello

BTW, I'm riding a 04 R6. And I've only been riding for about 3 months. So any other pointers you might have would be greatly appreciated![/QUOTE]

yo roadstainr6 one of my friends has an '02 r6 and he dumps the clutch at around 6-9 grand.. he guesses the rpm by the sound. if you learn how to properly use your rear brake while wheelieing and you get used to it there will be no chance that the bike will loop. :fiddy be careful not to scrach ur new bike.. :YEAH

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

Thanks for the pointers guys. I'm headed out today to mess around. I'm trying to take it slow. But I can't stand knowing what I COULD be doing and not being able to do it. I think I was at about 10k when I dropped it the two or three times I got it up real high. I'll try a lower rpm. I wasn't really looking, I just kinda guned it real quick. I'm lookin for a diecent rat bike. But at the same time I can't afford to spend 5 grand on one. If you know anybody sellin somethin let me know. I don't care as long as it runs haha. Thanks again for the help guys, I"ll let you know how it all went.

Anybody wanna go to the starboys wheelie school with me?? I'm from PA. And I'm seriously lookin into goin. If I can get about 8-10 other people that would be awesome! Thanks again guys. And I'll try not to dump the bike haha.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

Good Info Hopfully I Wont Dump The Bike Tonight....

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

does any body have any sug on getting a 96' 900rr up to bp in 2nd i can get it up about 2 feet by clutching running about 45. any sugestions on about what rpm? and how fast? :banghead

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

Good guide, but hasnt realy given me any clues on things i am doing wrong :( unfortunatly not every one has a stupidly powerfull sports bike ( had to get some thing a little less :2cents )

Any hints for large single owners ( large and underpowerd talking 37bhp :banghead )

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

[QUOTE=evilbob]Any hints for large single owners ( large and underpowerd talking 37bhp :banghead )[/QUOTE]

1st gear, bounce off rev limiter, drop the clutch :2cents

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

does ne1 know wut the best was yo wheelie a hondacrf100f dirt bike is its a 100cc and i can ride but it just dosnt feel right, ne body got some tips 4 a new stunter, lol yea im yung 14 but my dad said hes gonna get me a reel stuntin bike when i get a licence sum 1 plzz hear me out and relp back THANX

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

[QUOTE=f4rider]1st gear, bounce off rev limiter, drop the clutch :2cents[/QUOTE]

i can get it up, :YEAH and keep it up all though gear ( some times more than 1 :cheers ) but just cant tipe it back enough :-(

Any one any ideas why i cant post a stupi new thread i want to ask questions no fair

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

:YEAH ..hey fellas ive been reading and practicing evry day now for about a week ,,i even took the printout of the post out wit me and kept it in my pocket just to keep my memory freshh,,,mannnn im gettin up consistently now ,,ur post was the shiznit f4rider,,thanx alot for ur help,man it cudnt hav been more clear,,,i must say this tho,i did experience the nut slamme a cup times,,caught me off guard,damn that hurts :shruggs

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

I finally got it up in second. Thanks for the advice f4irider. I've heard all the advice before I guess I was just scared of poppin it up to fast or something...I don't know. But it cimes up real easy. I was so stoked when I finally got it up on Saturday. I could always do 1st gear wheelies, not clucthin it though. I found its alot easier to do 1st gear's by clutching it too. What a revelation...LOL

Thanks again

:cheers

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=f4rider]Balancing the wheelie from side to side

It is the slow wheelies that you have to consciously balance side to side. The principle is pretty simple. Quickly lean the same direction as the bike is falling. For example, [B]if the bike is starting to fall to the left, you would quickly lean to the left. This movement would twist the bike towards the left[/B], thereby correcting it.[/QUOTE]

After reading this I have to think, if you LEAN IN the direction which your bike is leaning/falling wouldn't that just add your weight to the direction is falling? In theorum for physics that makes no sense to lean INTO the direction something is leaning in order to cause it to lean in the opposite direction, someone explain this....... :shruggs

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

hey that is some good ass info man..Thanks alot

Boyz From.... Zero 2 Sixty wanna thank you much

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way

i ride on 04 cbr 600rr granted i know that it is not a stunt bike by far but i was wondering if anyone had any tips on this underpowered bike i had to change the stock sprockets to get it to lift i went one down in the front and 3 up in the rear dont get me wrong it will come up but i need some advice on rocking a 2nd gear stand up should i clutch if so how and at what rpm should i put the left foot back should i power it up if so how to bounce and at how fast or rpm

Matt

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.

[QUOTE=zooo0000M SPLAT]After reading this I have to think, if you LEAN IN the direction which your bike is leaning/falling wouldn't that just add your weight to the direction is falling? In theorum for physics that makes no sense to lean INTO the direction something is leaning in order to cause it to lean in the opposite direction, someone explain this....... :shruggs[/QUOTE]

You're thinking too hard... or maybe not hard enough :shruggs :laughing.
Try standing on a hand rail snow-board style. What do you do when you start falling backwards? You arch your back, lean back, and swing your arms like you're doing the back stroke. And when you start falling forward, you lean forward, stick your ass out, and swing your arms the opposite way.

Now that we've disproved your physics theorems; that has nothing to do with balancing slow wheelies side to side. Wheelies are not balanced by the change of weight distribution, but by turning the rear wheel into the direction that the bike is falling. When the bike is in the wheelie position, the rear wheel is turned by twisting the bike. The force which causes you to lean (pushing with one hand, pulling with the other) is the same force which twists the bike while it’s on the rear wheel.

Now go outside and grab your BMX or mountain bike and prove this for yourself.