shifting in wheelies
#2
Re: shifting in wheelies
i don't think there's a proper way to do it, but what i do is keep upward pressure on the shift lever when i'm up , so when i get close to bp the rpm's slow down and the upward pressure on the shifter allows it to slide into 2nd. like i said i sure other people do it different, but that's how i do it.
#3
Re: shifting in wheelies
Listen man,,,,here are the FACTS ok so you make up your mind.
If you clutchless shift. This is the easiest way to do it. HOWEVER, yo WILL SCREW UP YOUR TRANSMISSION. Not "might" not "probably" YOU WILL.
Here is why. When there is still power to the trans. ie. no clutch, the gears still have positive power to them and when you shift they grind the dogs on the gears you won't hear it because it's so fast but its doing it. So, eventually your transmission will not stay in gear. When it pops out of gear,(just once,,,that's all it takes) it causes a chain reaction. the gear will get forced into the shift fork (grinding that down instantly). That will happen no matter what. Now, this could and probably will happen. The shift fork gets shved and bent in turn scoring the shift fork shaft and more than likely putting a notch in the transmission drum. this is expensive. It will keep you out of riding for the rest of the season.
now if you repair it yourself, count on spending approx. 700.00. Unless you hae a CBR1000RR in which case it MIGHT be a little less since you won't have to split the engine cases. Why does it cost more, assembly lube, gaskets, special tools. Time frame,,,your looking at about 1 month if you have a job. maybe 2 weeks if your a good wrench and have nothing else to do.
If you take it to a shop count on 2000.00 plus.
Option 2. learn to use the clutch while up in the air and spend that time on practice instead of labor and the money for upgrades unstead of repair.
Trust me, I've been there.
If you clutchless shift. This is the easiest way to do it. HOWEVER, yo WILL SCREW UP YOUR TRANSMISSION. Not "might" not "probably" YOU WILL.
Here is why. When there is still power to the trans. ie. no clutch, the gears still have positive power to them and when you shift they grind the dogs on the gears you won't hear it because it's so fast but its doing it. So, eventually your transmission will not stay in gear. When it pops out of gear,(just once,,,that's all it takes) it causes a chain reaction. the gear will get forced into the shift fork (grinding that down instantly). That will happen no matter what. Now, this could and probably will happen. The shift fork gets shved and bent in turn scoring the shift fork shaft and more than likely putting a notch in the transmission drum. this is expensive. It will keep you out of riding for the rest of the season.
now if you repair it yourself, count on spending approx. 700.00. Unless you hae a CBR1000RR in which case it MIGHT be a little less since you won't have to split the engine cases. Why does it cost more, assembly lube, gaskets, special tools. Time frame,,,your looking at about 1 month if you have a job. maybe 2 weeks if your a good wrench and have nothing else to do.
If you take it to a shop count on 2000.00 plus.
Option 2. learn to use the clutch while up in the air and spend that time on practice instead of labor and the money for upgrades unstead of repair.
Trust me, I've been there.
#4
Re: shifting in wheelies
uh, i flipped my shifter to 1up 5 down.. and i'd just rip one up in secound and when i got high enough when i let off throttle for a secound i'd shift into third.. and recently i just spun a rod bearing and the dogs on my tranny are fine... but its a kawasaki and the tranny is beafy as ****
#5
Re: shifting in wheelies
kung fu is right on the money there..i started buy doing this:
in 1st ride to red line then pull it up a little past the BP drop the throttle a little and slip into 2nd..pulling it a little past the BP keeps you from having to reve the **** out of it cuz motor break dropped you down,..now i use the clutch..once i poped into 2nd and i guess it didnt get in all the way and in mid wheelie it popped out..scarred the **** outta me...just remember if this ever happens to you be sure you pull that clutch in so if it pops back in gear you wont bust another wheelie..
in 1st ride to red line then pull it up a little past the BP drop the throttle a little and slip into 2nd..pulling it a little past the BP keeps you from having to reve the **** out of it cuz motor break dropped you down,..now i use the clutch..once i poped into 2nd and i guess it didnt get in all the way and in mid wheelie it popped out..scarred the **** outta me...just remember if this ever happens to you be sure you pull that clutch in so if it pops back in gear you wont bust another wheelie..
#6
Re: shifting in wheelies
Originally Posted by ReconR1rider
kung fu is right on the money there..i started buy doing this:
in 1st ride to red line then pull it up a little past the BP drop the throttle a little and slip into 2nd..pulling it a little past the BP keeps you from having to reve the **** out of it cuz motor break dropped you down,..now i use the clutch..once i poped into 2nd and i guess it didnt get in all the way and in mid wheelie it popped out..scarred the **** outta me...just remember if this ever happens to you be sure you pull that clutch in so if it pops back in gear you wont bust another wheelie..
in 1st ride to red line then pull it up a little past the BP drop the throttle a little and slip into 2nd..pulling it a little past the BP keeps you from having to reve the **** out of it cuz motor break dropped you down,..now i use the clutch..once i poped into 2nd and i guess it didnt get in all the way and in mid wheelie it popped out..scarred the **** outta me...just remember if this ever happens to you be sure you pull that clutch in so if it pops back in gear you wont bust another wheelie..
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