coolant flush (searched)
#1
coolant flush (searched)
hey guys, just some backround info. i have an 03 636 with 8300 miles on it.
hey guys, i was just wondering bout doing a coolant flush on my bike. its new to me, and im doing all the fluids on it just because i want peace of mind when i first take off on it come spring(not soon enough lol). anyway, im certain i know how to drain it, but im wondering about filling it back up? is there anything special i should do to fill the block up so its not all just in radiator? im kind of a newb to workin on bikes, but ive wrenched on cars and trucks for the past 8-10 years, so needless to say, im not afraid of doing things myself. Just lookin for a little heads up on some inside tricks of the trade from you guys. also, im thinkin bout doin the t-stat while im at it, good idea or no? i know its cheap and i figure the systems going to be empty so i might as well.
Thanks guys!
hey guys, i was just wondering bout doing a coolant flush on my bike. its new to me, and im doing all the fluids on it just because i want peace of mind when i first take off on it come spring(not soon enough lol). anyway, im certain i know how to drain it, but im wondering about filling it back up? is there anything special i should do to fill the block up so its not all just in radiator? im kind of a newb to workin on bikes, but ive wrenched on cars and trucks for the past 8-10 years, so needless to say, im not afraid of doing things myself. Just lookin for a little heads up on some inside tricks of the trade from you guys. also, im thinkin bout doin the t-stat while im at it, good idea or no? i know its cheap and i figure the systems going to be empty so i might as well.
Thanks guys!
#2
Re: coolant flush (searched)
it wouldn't hurt to do the t stat.
good insurance, ya know.
as far as filling, theres a couple bleeder screws in the system yto burp it.. one is on the pump and one should be on the T stat housing (i could be confused tho..)
should be 8MM (maybe 10, but doubt it) just like a brake bleeder..
just fill that **** up with the motor off and crack the bleeders til you get the air out.. do the pump first, as this is most improtant. the machanical seal inside on the back of the impeller is a wet seal and if it's run dry, it'll fry it.
once you get coonalt out of the bleeder, just shut it. when i get to the top where the ***** almost filled, i'll squeeze the radiator pipes and move the bike to migrate the air to the opening.. once i get as much as i can in there, i start it up and let it self-bleed kinda at idle and add as needed.. i'll cap, run it to operating temp, then let cool and reinspect.
no more than maybe a half hour for all that, minus plastics removal if any.. and i used forced cooling (bigass fan) for the last check and top-off
pretty much the same **** as cars minus the bleeder screws.
good insurance, ya know.
as far as filling, theres a couple bleeder screws in the system yto burp it.. one is on the pump and one should be on the T stat housing (i could be confused tho..)
should be 8MM (maybe 10, but doubt it) just like a brake bleeder..
just fill that **** up with the motor off and crack the bleeders til you get the air out.. do the pump first, as this is most improtant. the machanical seal inside on the back of the impeller is a wet seal and if it's run dry, it'll fry it.
once you get coonalt out of the bleeder, just shut it. when i get to the top where the ***** almost filled, i'll squeeze the radiator pipes and move the bike to migrate the air to the opening.. once i get as much as i can in there, i start it up and let it self-bleed kinda at idle and add as needed.. i'll cap, run it to operating temp, then let cool and reinspect.
no more than maybe a half hour for all that, minus plastics removal if any.. and i used forced cooling (bigass fan) for the last check and top-off
pretty much the same **** as cars minus the bleeder screws.
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