Serious Sh!t...
#21
Re: Serious ****...
Originally Posted by pcp weelo
like i said, do a pair valve bypass and you wont have the oil entering the airbow through the crankcase reather tube anymore. same thing my bike would do cause when i started riding wheelies, i would rock them too high for too long and the airbox was sucking the oil through the tube in the back of the motor, if i find that link i used to fix it, ill post it, if not, the next time you get your *** down here we can run by autobone, pick up some hose, and fix it. til then, its still good to go, i rode mine for about 4 months with it smoking when i sat it down til i fixed the problem, and i have 24000 miles on it now and its still stunting strong
#22
Re: Serious ****...
its easy, all you do is remove the tank, and airbox. your pair valve is the valve located at the front of the motor, mounted to frame. there will be two hoses coming from your valve cover into it. simply remove the 2 hoses from the valve, but leave the valve in place, or else a fi light will come on, put a t-fitting that you can get from autozone in between it, then run a hose from it down to the back of your motor to your crankcase. you will need enough hose to go around the motor along the frame. then attach it there, remove the old short hose from you're airbox to the crackcase, and cap off the hole on your airbox. its simple to say, but easier if i can remember where i found it at. plus it has pics, they also say that on a dyno you will see up to one whole hp......what could be better then that
#25
Re: Serious ****...
scott...yo0u shoulda been in russellville..i got my stoppies like 70ft...and i was rockin some sick spreaders in traffic haha at like 50 down the highway...hahahaha people freak out when they see my monkey legs danglin in the air when im riden a wheelie..this one car totally pulled off the highway
Last edited by YellowGixxer; 05-31-2006 at 01:14 AM.
#26
Re: Serious ****...
Originally Posted by pcp weelo
its easy, all you do is remove the tank, and airbox. your pair valve is the valve located at the front of the motor, mounted to frame. there will be two hoses coming from your valve cover into it. simply remove the 2 hoses from the valve, but leave the valve in place, or else a fi light will come on, put a t-fitting that you can get from autozone in between it, then run a hose from it down to the back of your motor to your crankcase. you will need enough hose to go around the motor along the frame. then attach it there, remove the old short hose from you're airbox to the crackcase, and cap off the hole on your airbox. its simple to say, but easier if i can remember where i found it at. plus it has pics, they also say that on a dyno you will see up to one whole hp......what could be better then that
#27
Re: Serious ****...
My friend did it to his 636 when it had about 100 miles on it and he's got 11k on it now with no problems. I did it to my 636, but have only ridden it about 200-300 miles since then. I figure if my buddy's 636 is fine after 11k, it can't be that bad for it.
The hoses I connected have no clamps on them, so if it's got that kind of pressure behind it, it'll pop the hoses long before the head gasket goes. I wondered about the pressure also, so I left the hoses with no clamps ... just in case.
The hoses I connected have no clamps on them, so if it's got that kind of pressure behind it, it'll pop the hoses long before the head gasket goes. I wondered about the pressure also, so I left the hoses with no clamps ... just in case.
#28
Re: Serious ****...
Originally Posted by jcrojas
My friend did it to his 636 when it had about 100 miles on it and he's got 11k on it now with no problems. I did it to my 636, but have only ridden it about 200-300 miles since then. I figure if my buddy's 636 is fine after 11k, it can't be that bad for it.
The hoses I connected have no clamps on them, so if it's got that kind of pressure behind it, it'll pop the hoses long before the head gasket goes. I wondered about the pressure also, so I left the hoses with no clamps ... just in case.
The hoses I connected have no clamps on them, so if it's got that kind of pressure behind it, it'll pop the hoses long before the head gasket goes. I wondered about the pressure also, so I left the hoses with no clamps ... just in case.
I hooked up my crankcase breather to my valve cover on my 636 and that made the motor blow oil out of some of the case cover seals....For now I just have a longer hose that goes around the motor before going into the air box
#29
Re: Serious ****...
yeah my friends gsxr 1 had the crank case breather hooked up to those two hoses with a T fitting, his valve cover gasket was toasted. i think it'd be best to run the crank case breather hose to 1 of the hoses on the valve cover and leave one on valve cover to the air box
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