954 idle

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Old 04-01-2006, 02:56 PM
  #21  
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Re: 954 idle

I don't know about the "N" deal. because right now my 954 has a grounded Nuetral so it's on anytime. If I'm above 3K idle is everywhere.

I'm going to try the clutch switch and see if that improves idle issue.

I'll keep you all updated.

Later ,

BV

Originally Posted by Jaket
cam: you could be right. my 954 has broken clutch switch so I have to start the bike up always at neutral. i have 900rr second idle cable and it still jumps around if I adjust it over 2200 or so.

I have noticed that engine high idle (2000) changes when I switch between neutral and first gear. It changes about ~200rpm. lot of bikes run different fuel injection/ignition maps for neutral. usually neutral map is used also when clutch is pulled. so hard wiring clutch switch probably forces the bike to run constantly neutral map. usually this kind of hard wiring is bad for top power, because neutral map doesn't work that well. but for stunting it could be the right setup.

I have to attach a switch to neutral wires and check how it effects.

it could be that when the bike is running neutral map it's not using any accelerator pump feature or something like that. if it's running first gear map it can pump more fuel in and that makes the idle to jump up and run high for a while.

but that is certain it runs a different fuel/ignition setup for clutch pulled or not.(neutral or first gear).

JakeT.
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Old 04-01-2006, 04:26 PM
  #22  
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Re: 954 idle

Ok... Here is exactly what you need to do to have a perfectly smooth, and manual idle. The 929 and 954 are the exact same setup so do these:

**** YOU'LL NEED:
1) Sheet Metal
2) Honda Bond
3) CBR 600F2 Idle Cable
4) Axle Grease

In picture #1, you can see where my exhaust valve used to be. You need to disconnect those cables and pull that valve out of the exhaust completely. Get a thin piece of sheet metal from Home Depot or a local hardware store and cut out a block off. (You can use the metal gasket that comes off of the exhaust valve for a template. Just trace it onto the sheet metal and cut it out). To seal the block off, I suggest getting "HONDA BOND" from any Honda shop. Works great, and you can use it for many applications on your bike. Now, follow the cables up from the exhaust valve to your Servo Motor, once you have done that, disconnect all the cables that go to your Servo Motor. (The Servo Motor is just a small, round looking box that controls the opening and closing of the exhaust valve)

In picture #2, even though I don't have the airbox open, once you open up yours you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. You need to completely gut the airbox. Take out the flap, all the cables, and the cable that comes up through the bottom of the airbox, get rid of that. Now block off the hole in the airbox with a bolt, 2 washers (one on each side of the airbox) and a nut on bottom. Remember to put back in your airfilter after.

In picture #3, you can see these are the throttle bodies on a 954. Where the circle is and the arrow that points to it is, there is a very small idle screw. I shouldn't even call it a screw, its basically a threaded bolt with the head of the bolt cut off. You can see that it is set to a factory position to hold the throttle bodies open. What you need to do is take that out and replace that with a CBR 600F2 cable. These cables work best, but if you have something else then use that. If you get an F2 cable (which are like $15 or $20 at any Honda shop) you don't need the spring on the end. When I ran my idle cable I ran it back up, right next to the existing throttle cable (which is the upper arrow in this picture). On the bottom of your airbox you'll see there is a small valley for the existing stock throttle cable, so just run your new manual idle cable parallel to that. Be sure to lube the threads on the F2 cable with axle grease!!!!! This is important, b/c if you don't it will bind up over time.

This is exactly what I did to my 929 and you can manually adjust your idle now to any RPM with absolutely NO GLITCHES!!! Leave your existing vacuum cable connected and at your stock position. Your vacuum idle cable which is under your frame does still function and will control vacuum idle at start up, so don't disconnect it.. just leave it set so your bike idles normal. "Warning": The bike will start a bit rougher, be a bit louder, and if the bike is cold it will cut out at Wide Open Throttle if you get on it... but once the bike hits around 150 degrees she purrrrrs like a kitten!!! If you have anymore questions, Email me or pm me. I'll do the best I can to help you out.
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:21 AM
  #23  
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Re: 954 idle

how does it drive for nohanders, I took the exhaust valve out and seemed like it had know bottom end drive.
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:00 PM
  #24  
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Re: 954 idle

Originally Posted by kj954
again...

the 2nd cable DOES NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. I tried it.

It will still jump all over the place. 2400 pulls hard enough if your geared.
i put the second(900rr) cable on my 929 where the throttle body stop was, and I can set my idle anywhere i want and it stays rock solid! 2000 3000 4000 wherever i set it, it stays put?
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:04 PM
  #25  
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Re: 954 idle

Originally Posted by Mr. Farley
Ok... Here is exactly what you need to do to have a perfectly smooth, and manual idle. The 929 and 954 are the exact same setup so do these:

**** YOU'LL NEED:
1) Sheet Metal
2) Honda Bond
3) CBR 600F2 Idle Cable
4) Axle Grease

In picture #1, you can see where my exhaust valve used to be. You need to disconnect those cables and pull that valve out of the exhaust completely. Get a thin piece of sheet metal from Home Depot or a local hardware store and cut out a block off. (You can use the metal gasket that comes off of the exhaust valve for a template. Just trace it onto the sheet metal and cut it out). To seal the block off, I suggest getting "HONDA BOND" from any Honda shop. Works great, and you can use it for many applications on your bike. Now, follow the cables up from the exhaust valve to your Servo Motor, once you have done that, disconnect all the cables that go to your Servo Motor. (The Servo Motor is just a small, round looking box that controls the opening and closing of the exhaust valve)

In picture #2, even though I don't have the airbox open, once you open up yours you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. You need to completely gut the airbox. Take out the flap, all the cables, and the cable that comes up through the bottom of the airbox, get rid of that. Now block off the hole in the airbox with a bolt, 2 washers (one on each side of the airbox) and a nut on bottom. Remember to put back in your airfilter after.

In picture #3, you can see these are the throttle bodies on a 954. Where the circle is and the arrow that points to it is, there is a very small idle screw. I shouldn't even call it a screw, its basically a threaded bolt with the head of the bolt cut off. You can see that it is set to a factory position to hold the throttle bodies open. What you need to do is take that out and replace that with a CBR 600F2 cable. These cables work best, but if you have something else then use that. If you get an F2 cable (which are like $15 or $20 at any Honda shop) you don't need the spring on the end. When I ran my idle cable I ran it back up, right next to the existing throttle cable (which is the upper arrow in this picture). On the bottom of your airbox you'll see there is a small valley for the existing stock throttle cable, so just run your new manual idle cable parallel to that. Be sure to lube the threads on the F2 cable with axle grease!!!!! This is important, b/c if you don't it will bind up over time.

This is exactly what I did to my 929 and you can manually adjust your idle now to any RPM with absolutely NO GLITCHES!!! Leave your existing vacuum cable connected and at your stock position. Your vacuum idle cable which is under your frame does still function and will control vacuum idle at start up, so don't disconnect it.. just leave it set so your bike idles normal. "Warning": The bike will start a bit rougher, be a bit louder, and if the bike is cold it will cut out at Wide Open Throttle if you get on it... but once the bike hits around 150 degrees she purrrrrs like a kitten!!! If you have anymore questions, Email me or pm me. I'll do the best I can to help you out.
BUMP +1 I did the exact same things and I concure! perfect smooth idle, but it is sooper cold blooded, but no big deal, just let it warm up good, and she runs like a raped ape!
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