f4i idle / bogging problems
#1
f4i idle / bogging problems
i was goin to relocate the idle screw.
i took the stock idle screw out and relocated in in the frontside of the throttle bodies.
after doin this i saw that i needed to leave a cable in the stock location (and add another cable), so i moved it back.
i put everything back to how it was originally, now it seems to bog at low/partial throttle.
i checked it with the aibox off, it seems to be doin it only when the rightside throttle bodies are slightly open (and the left side throttle bodies havnt begun to move)
i tried adjusing all the screws in there and nothing seemed to fix it,
anyone have any ideas?
it sounds like it is bogging ( more of a carbeurated sound ) from idle until the left side throttle bodies open up.
im pretty sure it has something to do with the right side throotle bodies, but i dont know what.
please, any help would be great.
if need be i can get a video of it, so you can hear what im talkin about, but ill need a host.
i took the stock idle screw out and relocated in in the frontside of the throttle bodies.
after doin this i saw that i needed to leave a cable in the stock location (and add another cable), so i moved it back.
i put everything back to how it was originally, now it seems to bog at low/partial throttle.
i checked it with the aibox off, it seems to be doin it only when the rightside throttle bodies are slightly open (and the left side throttle bodies havnt begun to move)
i tried adjusing all the screws in there and nothing seemed to fix it,
anyone have any ideas?
it sounds like it is bogging ( more of a carbeurated sound ) from idle until the left side throttle bodies open up.
im pretty sure it has something to do with the right side throotle bodies, but i dont know what.
please, any help would be great.
if need be i can get a video of it, so you can hear what im talkin about, but ill need a host.
#3
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
Originally Posted by Kelly.
i checked it with the aibox off, it seems to be doin it only when the rightside throttle bodies are slightly open (and the left side throttle bodies havnt begun to move)
.
.
#4
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
Well, I don't know about **** moving unsync'd but mine is doing the something like that. It's also stay's low as **** as soon as I start it, almost dying, then after about 10 or more seconds of WAITING, the idle will kick in. But every once in a while it will just drop back down on it's own and fluctuate. I have a friend with an f4i and his is doing the same thing as well.
Not sure what it is...
Not sure what it is...
#5
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
might be able to get a screw to replace the stock location from your local child support, then set to "normal" idle with the screw, then put the idle screw set-up back where you were gonna change it to(where the gold set-screw was) Should work fine, my 600RR works about the same with the idle screws.
your problem may have been when you put, or didn't put the set screw back into where you were gonna put the idle screw.....that could change where it sets down, I think it sets your minimum idle with that set screw, then you can raise and lower from the stock idle screw location. if the minimum idle location is set to the bottom and the idle is 'set' with the stock idle screw, which only affects 2 cylinders, that may be why it fluctuates....not sure, but sounded like the reason to me???
your problem may have been when you put, or didn't put the set screw back into where you were gonna put the idle screw.....that could change where it sets down, I think it sets your minimum idle with that set screw, then you can raise and lower from the stock idle screw location. if the minimum idle location is set to the bottom and the idle is 'set' with the stock idle screw, which only affects 2 cylinders, that may be why it fluctuates....not sure, but sounded like the reason to me???
#6
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
Originally Posted by 955iDisastar
sounds like you found your problem, you need to sync those tb's. all four butterflies should react at the same time.
please see pic.
i hope im at least on the right track
thanks for your help.
#7
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
Originally Posted by DerekLee
Well, I don't know about **** moving unsync'd but mine is doing the something like that. It's also stay's low as **** as soon as I start it, almost dying, then after about 10 or more seconds of WAITING, the idle will kick in. But every once in a while it will just drop back down on it's own and fluctuate. I have a friend with an f4i and his is doing the same thing as well.
Not sure what it is...
Not sure what it is...
mine idles decent, but at part throttle and low load it sounds horrible.
#8
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
Originally Posted by eazenutz33
might be able to get a screw to replace the stock location from your local child support, then set to "normal" idle with the screw, then put the idle screw set-up back where you were gonna change it to(where the gold set-screw was) Should work fine, my 600RR works about the same with the idle screws.
your problem may have been when you put, or didn't put the set screw back into where you were gonna put the idle screw.....that could change where it sets down, I think it sets your minimum idle with that set screw, then you can raise and lower from the stock idle screw location. if the minimum idle location is set to the bottom and the idle is 'set' with the stock idle screw, which only affects 2 cylinders, that may be why it fluctuates....not sure, but sounded like the reason to me???
your problem may have been when you put, or didn't put the set screw back into where you were gonna put the idle screw.....that could change where it sets down, I think it sets your minimum idle with that set screw, then you can raise and lower from the stock idle screw location. if the minimum idle location is set to the bottom and the idle is 'set' with the stock idle screw, which only affects 2 cylinders, that may be why it fluctuates....not sure, but sounded like the reason to me???
im not sure if there are words missing or what.
i kinda understand the first part, but im not catching what your saying in the second part.
i put everything back to stock (or what i thought was stock, and im still having problems witht e right Tb's
if you get a chance can you re word, or re write it.
sorry im dumb :|
thanks for the help though, i really apreciate it (seriously)
#9
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
I never messed with the screw you are pointing at in the pic, so that might be part of the problem. From the pic it looks like you have the idle screw in the right spot tho. It should push an 'arm' up when you turn the idle screw.
As for before I was mentioning when you put everything back together, did you leave out the set screw or not set it back where it was stock??? That could mess up your idle since when your idle screw is in its stock location it only increases the rpm in two cylinders and the more difference there is between the left 2 and right 2 the more messed up your idle could be. So, if you put the set screw back in and didn't put it in far enough, then turn up your idle from the stock location, the difference between them increases, not in rpm, but fuel/air mixture, now you are running on 2 cylinders getting enough air/fuel to run your idle at say 4,000, but your other 2 cylinders are bogging down the motor since they are tunring the same rpm, but without the feul/air to match, everything prolly works fine turning your throttle, but your idle would be messed up.
Not sure if that makes sense or not, my mind tends to work faster than I cna type!!!
Not sure what the other screws you 'played' with affect, but try to get them as close to stock as possible. then the easiest way to do it is get another idle screw f2/f3/900rr/600rr and put it in the new location, and have the threads started but not turning the idle up yet, then set your stock idle screw to the lowest setting your motor can run well and leave it there. From there turn your new idle screw up to where you like your motor to idle, with that idle screw you can use it as a cruise control at 10000rpm if you want. Mine works like this, its smooth as silk compared to when I turned my idle up from the stock location, plus it adjusts alot faster and more consistently.
Good luck.
As for before I was mentioning when you put everything back together, did you leave out the set screw or not set it back where it was stock??? That could mess up your idle since when your idle screw is in its stock location it only increases the rpm in two cylinders and the more difference there is between the left 2 and right 2 the more messed up your idle could be. So, if you put the set screw back in and didn't put it in far enough, then turn up your idle from the stock location, the difference between them increases, not in rpm, but fuel/air mixture, now you are running on 2 cylinders getting enough air/fuel to run your idle at say 4,000, but your other 2 cylinders are bogging down the motor since they are tunring the same rpm, but without the feul/air to match, everything prolly works fine turning your throttle, but your idle would be messed up.
Not sure if that makes sense or not, my mind tends to work faster than I cna type!!!
Not sure what the other screws you 'played' with affect, but try to get them as close to stock as possible. then the easiest way to do it is get another idle screw f2/f3/900rr/600rr and put it in the new location, and have the threads started but not turning the idle up yet, then set your stock idle screw to the lowest setting your motor can run well and leave it there. From there turn your new idle screw up to where you like your motor to idle, with that idle screw you can use it as a cruise control at 10000rpm if you want. Mine works like this, its smooth as silk compared to when I turned my idle up from the stock location, plus it adjusts alot faster and more consistently.
Good luck.
#10
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
As for before I was mentioning when you put everything back together, did you leave out the set screw or not set it back where it was stock???
That could mess up your idle since when your idle screw is in its stock location it only increases the rpm in two cylinders and the more difference there is between the left 2 and right 2 the more messed up your idle could be.
So, if you put the set screw back in and didn't put it in far enough, then turn up your idle from the stock location,
everything prolly works fine turning your throttle, but your idle would be messed up.
when i turn my throttle the right TB's open first, then at about ~15-20% throotle the left tb's open. it runs shitty until both tb's are open.
Not sure what the other screws you 'played' with affect, but try to get them as close to stock as possible. then the easiest way to do it is get another idle screw f2/f3/900rr/600rr and put it in the new location, and have the threads started but not turning the idle up yet, then set your stock idle screw to the lowest setting your motor can run well and leave it there. From there turn your new idle screw up to where you like your motor to idle, with that idle screw you can use it as a cruise control at 10000rpm if you want. Mine works like this, its smooth as silk compared to when I turned my idle up from the stock location, plus it adjusts alot faster and more consistently.
i think this might help
again, thanks for your help.
#11
Re: f4i idle / bogging problems
i got it fixed.
there is a spring that goes in between the middle of the throttle bodies..
once i put that back in, everything fixed itself.
thanks for everyones help
there is a spring that goes in between the middle of the throttle bodies..
once i put that back in, everything fixed itself.
thanks for everyones help
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