stunt bike WIREING
#24
Re: stunt bike WIREING
If Honda stayed true to their wiring and the simplicity of it... Green is always ground on Hondas and you can run multiple grounds together. For example.. on my 929 I ordered a whole new upper wiring harness. I cut out out all the wires for turn signals, and running lights... ended up getting rid of about 20 wires. But for your hi-beams to work you need that relay. Also, make sure your kill switch wires are in good shape b/c if any of those wires are cut in may just turn over but not start.
But if you really want to cut wires.. you are going to need to get that Auto Zone starter switch that is basically the same switches used on drag cars. You can cut out lots of wires in that case.. just make sure you have all your grounds covered. But like I said before, if Honda is true to their wiring harness Green is always ground and you can ground multipled wires to one Green just so long as you don't wire together 2 hot wires... then there will be serious problems.
But if you really want to cut wires.. you are going to need to get that Auto Zone starter switch that is basically the same switches used on drag cars. You can cut out lots of wires in that case.. just make sure you have all your grounds covered. But like I said before, if Honda is true to their wiring harness Green is always ground and you can ground multipled wires to one Green just so long as you don't wire together 2 hot wires... then there will be serious problems.
#26
Re: stunt bike WIREING
alright, i installed my acerbis headlight today and it all works great. hid the wires pretty well i think all is good. i have an idea to hook something up so i still have the oil light, neutral light, and gas light. their is the connector that hooks up to the gauge cluster with 8 or so wire that go to it and 1 is a ground (green). anyone know how i can find out which other wire to to what??
#28
Re: stunt bike WIREING
F4Stunna... you need a Continuity Tester. Hook up the tester light to the ones you believe are certain lights (ie: oil light, ignition light). Turn on and off the key on certain wires to help determine which wires are which.
If you don't know what this tester is, keep reading this section... otherwise skip to the next paragraph. You can get it at Home Depot or somewhere like that... I recommend getting a good one. Simply put... it looks like a screw driver with a sharp tip and to use it all you do is ground the aligator clip and stab the hot end into the wire you want to test. The light inside the handle will light up when you've found a hot wire or a switched source.
You will easily be able to determine which lights are switched, and which ones are not by using this tester. This should help you to eliminate some of your wires you don't need.
If you don't know what this tester is, keep reading this section... otherwise skip to the next paragraph. You can get it at Home Depot or somewhere like that... I recommend getting a good one. Simply put... it looks like a screw driver with a sharp tip and to use it all you do is ground the aligator clip and stab the hot end into the wire you want to test. The light inside the handle will light up when you've found a hot wire or a switched source.
You will easily be able to determine which lights are switched, and which ones are not by using this tester. This should help you to eliminate some of your wires you don't need.
#29
Re: stunt bike WIREING
Originally Posted by Mr. Farley
F4Stunna... you need a Continuity Tester. Hook up the tester light to the ones you believe are certain lights (ie: oil light, ignition light). Turn on and off the key on certain wires to help determine which wires are which.
If you don't know what this tester is, keep reading this section... otherwise skip to the next paragraph. You can get it at Home Depot or somewhere like that... I recommend getting a good one. Simply put... it looks like a screw driver with a sharp tip and to use it all you do is ground the aligator clip and stab the hot end into the wire you want to test. The light inside the handle will light up when you've found a hot wire or a switched source.
You will easily be able to determine which lights are switched, and which ones are not by using this tester. This should help you to eliminate some of your wires you don't need.
If you don't know what this tester is, keep reading this section... otherwise skip to the next paragraph. You can get it at Home Depot or somewhere like that... I recommend getting a good one. Simply put... it looks like a screw driver with a sharp tip and to use it all you do is ground the aligator clip and stab the hot end into the wire you want to test. The light inside the handle will light up when you've found a hot wire or a switched source.
You will easily be able to determine which lights are switched, and which ones are not by using this tester. This should help you to eliminate some of your wires you don't need.
thats a good idea. but if i can find a shop manual or something that shows what the wires are it will save alot of time and headache. plus i know their are a couple that are just lights in general to light up the speedo and tach and would just be a pain figuring out what is what. plus like even when the motor isnt running wouldnt the edu still be sending signals the the instruments cuase its all contoled electonically?
#30
Re: stunt bike WIREING
It will only send a signal when necessary... so your oil light for instance. The connection is only made (signal sent) when the oil lights needs to go on. So your oil light would be on a switch type relay... so when you turn the key on the oil light goes on then goes off. If you had a tester light to it, then you'd see the light on the tester go on and off. Now, your RPM's are electronic and will have constant feed and so will a couple other wires up front but for the most part you should be able to track down the wires you need and don't need.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nsschwenk
Bike Parts Wanted
3
10-16-2012 06:34 PM