riot

ALright, heres the deal.

I just replaced the stator, and hard wired my RR. My stator fried out on me. I also replaced the radiator. SO i go to jump it today (i should have trickled it,, but i wanted to ride), so as soon as i pull the jumpers off, the bike dies. So i , push the bike over, and grab some beer, 2 hours later, i attempt to jump it again, different battery, around 9.9v to start. NOw the ****er wont kick over. Im thinking its the plugs. I pulled out all four, cleaned them, they looked ALRIGHT. Sprayed some started fluid in there . . nothing. So im thinking the plugs are shot, but why isnt it holding a charge? Bad RR? Was the battery too low too jump (4 volts to begin with) .ANy advice at all would be great, im ****in pissed. Ive become a suzuki mechanic in 1 month LOL. I shoulda bought a honda.

Munke

have you tested your regulator rectifier? i have one brand new. i was told that was what it was so i ordered it brought it home and tested it it tested exactly the same as the one i have on there now. so i never used it. i cant return it since its an elec. part. have you checked to see if your getting continuity on your leads on the RR. pm your number ill tell you what Suzuki told me.

Dano

i put my money on the battery, when the voltage drops that low the plates get sulfated and it won't recover. i can't tell you how many times i've chased some strange electrical problem only to find out it's the battery, 4 volts is discharged, replace that biatch

riot

I hope your right, im gonna trickle one of them tommorow, and replace the plugs, i hope that will do it. Thanks for the help

Dano

i'd get a new battery if you can, motorcycle batteries have a short life. if it's sat around for any period of time it's probably gone. good luck.

ImStoopid

word to that. it always ends up being something hella simple and stupid in the end.

955iDisastar

Your RR has a type of ignition ststem that requires 10.5 v surface left over in the battery while cold cranking otherwise the igntion box will not send the signal to the coils. (TPS) You should replace the battery.

Armenian

Man I had the same exact **** go wrong on my 929 2 months ago...I replaced my battery and rectifier and it was neither...it ended up being a stator issue...check it out...inspect your stator assy. again....make sure the wiring inside your engine coming off of the stator is'nt pinched/frayed/cracking...this will ground out your coils on your stator and fry one or more of the phases--which will send a bad charge to your battery...check your battery's voltage--then start the bike up and check the voltage at idle--it should have risen and when you give it a bit of gas and hold it--you should see the charge go up just a few volts...the 3 phase wires from the stator get pretty hot...if they're pinched between your stator and your cover they can crack real easy...use good heat shrink tubing and wrap them *****es up nice and tight..insulation is the key here....good luck man....I know how frustrating charging/battery issues are...I wanted to shoot my bike too.

riot

Well the stator is wrapped up good, and the wires look alright. There was a phase fried out on the first one tho, hence this whole ****** problem. It was weird, as soon as i pulled the jumper cables off, it would shut off. Im hoping if i trickle the battery, and throw some plugs in it, ill be all good. I dont know, im ****** pissed . . .this **** better work or its goin off a cliff

SlitZ

dont dump it off a cliff, sell it to me for cheaper

riot

2500 and its yours right now . .. do it

SlitZ

i plan on it... get it out here

riot

Alright, i changed the plugs and it starts right up when jumped, but dies after a couple of minutes . . . .that battery is reading around 9.5 before i jump it, so i dont think its the battery. ALso, doesnt thebike run off of the stator once its initiallystarteed? If so, is my brand new stator fukked? This **** is getting old real quick. Im gonna run a voltometer through it, but i figured Id ask for some suggestions

riot

I cant even keep it started long enough to check the voltage. Something is drawing off the battery heavily. When I test is teh voltage is rapidly decreasing til it hits around 6.6v and then it dies. WHat the ***? DOnt think its teh battery

955iDisastar

OK one more time.... THE IGN. SYSTEM IN THAT BIKE NEEDS 10.5 VOLTS SURFACE DETECTED BY THE IGN. BOX OTHERWISE THE BOX WILL NOT SEND A SIGNAL TO FIRE THE COILS.... (TPS ignition system)

Have you check for insulation breakdown on the stator? shold not get any type of readin when testin the stator lead to ground (ofl). Should get very little resistance when testing lead to lead

Have you checked the diodes in the rec/rgulator? resistance should be round .435 ohms forward and ofl reverse

When you doo get it started leave the charger on the batt just to keep it running and rev the RPM's up does the surface voltage rise? if so the charging system is fine and you need to replace the battery....

A 12V BATTERY SHOULD HAVE JUST THAT..... 12VOLTS (actually closer to 12.5)

riot

WHen i rev the rpms, the voltage doesnt rise at all, in fact, almost looks like it drops . . . .Stator is wrapped tight, leads are fine.

955iDisastar

What does this mean " stator is wraped tight"? Did you try to wrap it youself?

Unplug the three stator leads. Now while its running set your multimeter to acvolts and test each lead... are they all producing the same voltage?

You mentioned something about one of the phases going out???? Take this lead that "burnt" off the rec/reg. and just let it hang (tape it up) basically turning your 3phase into a full wave charging system. If this makes the surface volts rise as you rev you need a reg/rec. Basically this means the rec/reg has a burnt diode and is shunting to ground.

You could also do this the easy way by testin the diodes in the rec. do you know how to test the rec/reg. with the diode function on your multimeter?

streetbike05

same thing was happenning to my gixxer and the plug for the voltage regulater had come loose. SO i illiminated the plug.

riot

ALright, I pulled the negative and positve output wires off of the rr, I tested them at idle and they read .98V, dropped when I revved teh engine. SOrry if im not good at this ****, this is my first big bike that I have ever worked on, new to the game. I think this is what is supposed to read according to your post. . . NOt sure how to check the diodes

Dano

you kick *** bro, and thank you for finally saying the battery needs to be at 12 damn volts, i keep hearing it had 9 so it's good

a battery than has a static voltage of 12.45 only has 75% capacity left!!!!