Frame Polishing ?'s
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgetown, KY
Age: 40
Posts: 44
Frame Polishing ?'s
I know most people regret polishing but I think it will be worth it when Im finished. I pulled the bike in my basement and gave it a good cleaning. So I plan on sanding 2-3 hours here and there until I finish. Plus its supposed to be get cold again for a while. I got a bunch of sand paper from a hardware store. I was planning on starting with 400 going to 600 then wet sanding with 1500. Is 400 going to be rough enough? Are there any power tools that I could use? I've heard that dremels just make waves and sander arent good either. Also if u have any tips let me know.
#2
Re: Frame Polishing ?'s
Getting of the coating is probably the toughest part IMO. Use easy off oven cleaner, there is 2 kinds, get the kind with the chemical lye in it the other will not work. It will turn black and it is a pain. aircraft paint remover will not touch this type of coating. and if you choose to go this route tape and cover everything you don't want polished including your skin cause it does burn.
Or you can you a angle grinder with 3M red disk. There are 3 types of disks brown (caorse) red (medium) blue (fine)
I would recommend red or blue. But keep in mind if you use the angle grinder yes it will be a lot faster but you will have to make sure your frame is equally smooth after your first sand paper or at the final step you will get the waves.
After you get the factory coating off you will see that the frame will have factory scratches and pits. depending on how bad and how good you want the polishing to come out will determine you choice of sand paper.
Get a spray bottle for wet sanding.
I would start of with 220 wet/dry sand paper. If that isn't removeing the factory blemishes you may want to move down a grit.
Keep the frame and sand paper wet at all times.
When sanding try to use the palm of you hand, for it will make for a bigger contact patch and smoother finish.
Go over the whole frame good making sure the scratches from the 220 paper are uniform. Then just go through your sand paper up to 200 or 2500 grit.
Making sure with each new grit of paper you get the scratches from the old paper out and it is uniform again.
Here's the sand paper I use 3M wet/dry 220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,200,2500. I wouldn't recommend skipping any grits
Then get a buffing wheel (or 2)and white rouge compound. Both you can get at Home Depot and you can buy an adapter that will fit your standard drill.
Spin the buffing wheel on the white rouge and start buffing. It will start turn back which is fine but just don't let it gum up on you. Do sections at a time and wipe it off. Every so often scuff the buffing pad.
Then the final step is get some mothers polish and go over it. I use the polishing compound called Excites. But mothers is $5 and Excites is $20 you can make the call on that.
This is the way I polish. Time consuming yes but to me it is worth it.
I've done several sets bike rims, 2 frames, misc. parts for customers and the rims on my s-10. My rims took me 5 hrs. each. I can post a pick if you want.
Here is the pic of the angle grinder and scuff disk if you deside to go this route.
Hope this helps and sorry for the lengthy post. Let me know if you need any more help.
Marc
Or you can you a angle grinder with 3M red disk. There are 3 types of disks brown (caorse) red (medium) blue (fine)
I would recommend red or blue. But keep in mind if you use the angle grinder yes it will be a lot faster but you will have to make sure your frame is equally smooth after your first sand paper or at the final step you will get the waves.
After you get the factory coating off you will see that the frame will have factory scratches and pits. depending on how bad and how good you want the polishing to come out will determine you choice of sand paper.
Get a spray bottle for wet sanding.
I would start of with 220 wet/dry sand paper. If that isn't removeing the factory blemishes you may want to move down a grit.
Keep the frame and sand paper wet at all times.
When sanding try to use the palm of you hand, for it will make for a bigger contact patch and smoother finish.
Go over the whole frame good making sure the scratches from the 220 paper are uniform. Then just go through your sand paper up to 200 or 2500 grit.
Making sure with each new grit of paper you get the scratches from the old paper out and it is uniform again.
Here's the sand paper I use 3M wet/dry 220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,200,2500. I wouldn't recommend skipping any grits
Then get a buffing wheel (or 2)and white rouge compound. Both you can get at Home Depot and you can buy an adapter that will fit your standard drill.
Spin the buffing wheel on the white rouge and start buffing. It will start turn back which is fine but just don't let it gum up on you. Do sections at a time and wipe it off. Every so often scuff the buffing pad.
Then the final step is get some mothers polish and go over it. I use the polishing compound called Excites. But mothers is $5 and Excites is $20 you can make the call on that.
This is the way I polish. Time consuming yes but to me it is worth it.
I've done several sets bike rims, 2 frames, misc. parts for customers and the rims on my s-10. My rims took me 5 hrs. each. I can post a pick if you want.
Here is the pic of the angle grinder and scuff disk if you deside to go this route.
Hope this helps and sorry for the lengthy post. Let me know if you need any more help.
Marc
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Georgetown, KY
Age: 40
Posts: 44
Re: Frame Polishing ?'s
Thanks a lot 4given, lots of good info there. I think ill run to the store tom. and grab the oven cleaner w/ lye and try that. Ill pick up some rougher sand paper to start w/ and a buffing wheel for a drill. I already have some mothers polish (I've had really good luck w/ it). Ill start with the swing arm first since Its the easiest as far as sanding. If anyone else has any info post it up.
#8
Re: Frame Polishing ?'s
I can post picks of the buffing wheel I use if you need it. There are different sizes. If you see a package deal with like 4 buffing wheels in it ( small to med.), don't get it tryed then they don't really work for this type of polishing.
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