Cutting erion pipe
#2
Re: Cutting erion pipe
You will spend $$$ on this method that I did but it is well worth it in the long run.
I took mine to a welder. I think he hacked off about 6-7 inches from the bottom of the erion plaque, down towards the bottom end of the pipe where it connects to the mid pipe.
He welded it back together in the area where the exhaust clamp holds it onto the passenger peg. So that way the weld is covered by the clamp. It looks like the pipe came that way. Nice and pimp.
Hope that helps you.
I took mine to a welder. I think he hacked off about 6-7 inches from the bottom of the erion plaque, down towards the bottom end of the pipe where it connects to the mid pipe.
He welded it back together in the area where the exhaust clamp holds it onto the passenger peg. So that way the weld is covered by the clamp. It looks like the pipe came that way. Nice and pimp.
Hope that helps you.
#4
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Re: Cutting erion pipe
I would first listen to a few other bikes with cut cans before you cut yours. I stunt a 636 stock can but I did cut my last one and I tell you what that F@@king sh@t was too damn loud. I did a very nice job cutting and reinstalling the end cap since I do Aircraft sheet metal maintenance in the Air Force but I had to go back to a full can due to the loud *** noise it drove me crazy! I do plenty of 12's and the can is fine I guess it helps having a 12 bar well good luck man! :YEAH
#5
Re: Cutting erion pipe
I cut my erion pipe on my f4i. This is what you do.
Materials needed:
Appropriate rivets
A respirator mask
A Drill bit just a little bigger than the center portion of the rivets.
A punch or nail about the same size as your drill bit.
A Hammer.
Masking tape.
A rivet gun.
A hack saw.
1.Take your pipe off the bike.
2.Decide if you want to remove material from the end closest to the midpipe or the end tip. I chose to remove from the end closest to the midpipe. It really doesn’t matter.
3.Take some masking tape and go around your pipe for a cutting line.
4.Find something soft to keep it from getting scratched and Lay the pipe on the ground.
5.Strattle the pipe to hold it in place.
6.Use a drill bit that is just a little bigger than the center part of the rivets and drill them out. You don’t need the bit to be the size of the rivets, just the center portion.
7.After your done drilling use a punch or a nail and knock the rivets through with a hammer.
8.Pull the inner pipe out.
9.Cut the outer shell along the masking tape you laid out before to whatever size you decide on. Remove the excess packing.
10.Cut the inner pipe to the same size as the outside. Make sure they are the same size. Test fit. Measure 10 times cut once.
11.Mark holes on the outer s
hell of the pipe for new rivets.
12.Drill you new holes.
13.Pop your new rivets in.
That’s it. Just take your time and you'll be OK.
OH, almost forgot. PUT AS MUCH PACKING AS YOU CAN BACK INTO YOUR PIPE. My pipe is actually quieter than it was stock. More of a deeper sound, but quieter.
:YEAH
Materials needed:
Appropriate rivets
A respirator mask
A Drill bit just a little bigger than the center portion of the rivets.
A punch or nail about the same size as your drill bit.
A Hammer.
Masking tape.
A rivet gun.
A hack saw.
1.Take your pipe off the bike.
2.Decide if you want to remove material from the end closest to the midpipe or the end tip. I chose to remove from the end closest to the midpipe. It really doesn’t matter.
3.Take some masking tape and go around your pipe for a cutting line.
4.Find something soft to keep it from getting scratched and Lay the pipe on the ground.
5.Strattle the pipe to hold it in place.
6.Use a drill bit that is just a little bigger than the center part of the rivets and drill them out. You don’t need the bit to be the size of the rivets, just the center portion.
7.After your done drilling use a punch or a nail and knock the rivets through with a hammer.
8.Pull the inner pipe out.
9.Cut the outer shell along the masking tape you laid out before to whatever size you decide on. Remove the excess packing.
10.Cut the inner pipe to the same size as the outside. Make sure they are the same size. Test fit. Measure 10 times cut once.
11.Mark holes on the outer s
hell of the pipe for new rivets.
12.Drill you new holes.
13.Pop your new rivets in.
That’s it. Just take your time and you'll be OK.
OH, almost forgot. PUT AS MUCH PACKING AS YOU CAN BACK INTO YOUR PIPE. My pipe is actually quieter than it was stock. More of a deeper sound, but quieter.
:YEAH
#6
Re: Cutting erion pipe
cut it from the end closest to the midpipe. the inner baffle is welded to the tip, and its a ***** to get the tip lined up with the baffle if you cut it on that end. the midpipe end on the 929 is aluminum, and the tip is stainless. that should have made it a no brainer for me.
#7
Re: Cutting erion pipe
Originally Posted by -Eric-
cut it from the end closest to the midpipe. the inner baffle is welded to the tip, and its a ***** to get the tip lined up with the baffle if you cut it on that end. the midpipe end on the 929 is aluminum, and the tip is stainless. that should have made it a no brainer for me.
#10
Re: Cutting erion pipe
If I'm understanding you correctly, you cut the inner pipe an inch shorter than the out shell. If this is the case, you might end up gradually blowing the packing out of your pipe. If I was you I would take whatevers needed out of the outer shell to make it fit snugg. Measure 10000000 times cut once. Holla
#11
Re: Cutting erion pipe
Ok, I'll re-cut it. I can already see some of the packing coming out of the end. Thanks. I got a little carried away with the hack saw. Good thing I bought extra rivets.
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