How to wheelie on a Katana 600
11-19-2004, 12:58 AM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brockton, MA
Age: 36
Posts: 721
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Anyways, I have an 01 katana 600, almost exactly the same as the 04. You should really get used to the bike for a while before you start trying to wheelie it, I had around 2000 and felt confident riding before I even tried them.
As I'm sure you've found out, the katana really lacks in power, so it's next to impossible to power it up, which leaves you with the clutch method.
Now before you find a parking lot (empty) and start popping the clutch make sure you ride around for a few minutes to get the tires warmed up, longer if it's cold out. Because the front end's really heavy the rear tire tends to just spin when you try to clutch up if it's still cold.
Right now I'm still working on getting the beast to BP and holding it there, because the front end is so heavy balance point is really high on this bike, making it take more courage to bring it up that high, but it can be done.
Now I've tried every method out there and the only way that I've found to be consistenly reliable is to clutch it up while standing staggered, left foot on the back left peg and right foot on the front right peg covering the brake.
When you're standing, especially staggered, it brings your weight toward the back of the bike, both giving the tire more traction and making the front lighter, making it easier to wheelie. It feels really, REALLY weird standing up, but you just have to learn to get comfortable with it, once you get comfy it feels natural. To get used to clutching up without actually wheelying I would ride around the parking lot for a little while just slipping the clutch 1000 RPM's to get used to the feeling of that while standing.
Now to wheelie the kat it also really helps to bounce the front suspension to get the rebound. When you push down hard on the bars the forks are going to compress, and when they come back up they're going to push the front end up as well, making it a lot easier to wheelie.
To do this you want to stand and almost LUNGE foreward to compress and then slip the clutch and start to rev it up and then drop it. The big thing is to use your weight to compress the shocks and then get your weight toward the back of the bike as you drop the clutch. It sounds complicated but it's all about feel, the more you do t the more it makes sense.
Now to the good stuff.
Once you get used to standing up, at least a little bit used to it, it's time to start trying to bring the wheel in the air.
The way I bring it up is to stand staggered, going at about 3500 rpm's, and then BOUNCE. Now a lot goes on when you bounce it, you're compressing the suspension, you're pulling the clutch in most of the way, and you're giving it a lot of gas.
When I drop the clutch I usually drop it around 10,500, right at peak horsepower.
I also never fully pull the clutch in, I use my middle and index fingers and pull it in to my nuckles, this way you're holding on with the other fingers.
You want to be rolling on the throttle right when you start to pull the clutch in, maybe half throttle or so to bring the revs up quick, and then drop it as soon as the shocks are at their lowest so as to maximize the rebound affect.
The clutch is only in for less than a second but in that time you should roll on the gas hard and then drop the clutch, and then give it more gas.
Now if you do all of this but the front only jerks, or maybe hops up a couple inches but then drops back down you're not staying on the gas.
After dropping the clutch you have to give it a little more gas, around 3/4 throttle to bring it up, other wise if you let off of it you're just going to get engine braking and nothing will happen.
It just takes practice but the more you do it the more you'll feel comfortable doing it. Go out and make yourself spend 15 minutes or half an hour of non-stop practicing, or practice until you get it to lift a couple inches.
But be safe and WEAR YOU GEAR! Boots, jeans, jacket, helmet and gloves. If you go down without them you're going to have some ugly road rash.
SWEAT WASHES OFF, ROAD RASH DOESN'T.
If you have questions about any of this IM me, got2josh. I'd love to see how it's going for you and stuff. Good luck!
As I'm sure you've found out, the katana really lacks in power, so it's next to impossible to power it up, which leaves you with the clutch method.
Now before you find a parking lot (empty) and start popping the clutch make sure you ride around for a few minutes to get the tires warmed up, longer if it's cold out. Because the front end's really heavy the rear tire tends to just spin when you try to clutch up if it's still cold.
Right now I'm still working on getting the beast to BP and holding it there, because the front end is so heavy balance point is really high on this bike, making it take more courage to bring it up that high, but it can be done.
Now I've tried every method out there and the only way that I've found to be consistenly reliable is to clutch it up while standing staggered, left foot on the back left peg and right foot on the front right peg covering the brake.
When you're standing, especially staggered, it brings your weight toward the back of the bike, both giving the tire more traction and making the front lighter, making it easier to wheelie. It feels really, REALLY weird standing up, but you just have to learn to get comfortable with it, once you get comfy it feels natural. To get used to clutching up without actually wheelying I would ride around the parking lot for a little while just slipping the clutch 1000 RPM's to get used to the feeling of that while standing.
Now to wheelie the kat it also really helps to bounce the front suspension to get the rebound. When you push down hard on the bars the forks are going to compress, and when they come back up they're going to push the front end up as well, making it a lot easier to wheelie.
To do this you want to stand and almost LUNGE foreward to compress and then slip the clutch and start to rev it up and then drop it. The big thing is to use your weight to compress the shocks and then get your weight toward the back of the bike as you drop the clutch. It sounds complicated but it's all about feel, the more you do t the more it makes sense.
Now to the good stuff.
Once you get used to standing up, at least a little bit used to it, it's time to start trying to bring the wheel in the air.
The way I bring it up is to stand staggered, going at about 3500 rpm's, and then BOUNCE. Now a lot goes on when you bounce it, you're compressing the suspension, you're pulling the clutch in most of the way, and you're giving it a lot of gas.
When I drop the clutch I usually drop it around 10,500, right at peak horsepower.
I also never fully pull the clutch in, I use my middle and index fingers and pull it in to my nuckles, this way you're holding on with the other fingers.
You want to be rolling on the throttle right when you start to pull the clutch in, maybe half throttle or so to bring the revs up quick, and then drop it as soon as the shocks are at their lowest so as to maximize the rebound affect.
The clutch is only in for less than a second but in that time you should roll on the gas hard and then drop the clutch, and then give it more gas.
Now if you do all of this but the front only jerks, or maybe hops up a couple inches but then drops back down you're not staying on the gas.
After dropping the clutch you have to give it a little more gas, around 3/4 throttle to bring it up, other wise if you let off of it you're just going to get engine braking and nothing will happen.
It just takes practice but the more you do it the more you'll feel comfortable doing it. Go out and make yourself spend 15 minutes or half an hour of non-stop practicing, or practice until you get it to lift a couple inches.
But be safe and WEAR YOU GEAR! Boots, jeans, jacket, helmet and gloves. If you go down without them you're going to have some ugly road rash.
SWEAT WASHES OFF, ROAD RASH DOESN'T.
If you have questions about any of this IM me, got2josh. I'd love to see how it's going for you and stuff. Good luck!
11-19-2004, 03:59 AM
#22
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: spartanburg, SC
Age: 43
Posts: 1,137
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Originally Posted by Got2josh
Anyways, I have an 01 katana 600, almost exactly the same as the 04. You should really get used to the bike for a while before you start trying to wheelie it, I had around 2000 and felt confident riding before I even tried them.
As I'm sure you've found out, the katana really lacks in power, so it's next to impossible to power it up, which leaves you with the clutch method.
Now before you find a parking lot (empty) and start popping the clutch make sure you ride around for a few minutes to get the tires warmed up, longer if it's cold out. Because the front end's really heavy the rear tire tends to just spin when you try to clutch up if it's still cold.
Right now I'm still working on getting the beast to BP and holding it there, because the front end is so heavy balance point is really high on this bike, making it take more courage to bring it up that high, but it can be done.
Now I've tried every method out there and the only way that I've found to be consistenly reliable is to clutch it up while standing staggered, left foot on the back left peg and right foot on the front right peg covering the brake.
When you're standing, especially staggered, it brings your weight toward the back of the bike, both giving the tire more traction and making the front lighter, making it easier to wheelie. It feels really, REALLY weird standing up, but you just have to learn to get comfortable with it, once you get comfy it feels natural. To get used to clutching up without actually wheelying I would ride around the parking lot for a little while just slipping the clutch 1000 RPM's to get used to the feeling of that while standing.
Now to wheelie the kat it also really helps to bounce the front suspension to get the rebound. When you push down hard on the bars the forks are going to compress, and when they come back up they're going to push the front end up as well, making it a lot easier to wheelie.
To do this you want to stand and almost LUNGE foreward to compress and then slip the clutch and start to rev it up and then drop it. The big thing is to use your weight to compress the shocks and then get your weight toward the back of the bike as you drop the clutch. It sounds complicated but it's all about feel, the more you do t the more it makes sense.
Now to the good stuff.
Once you get used to standing up, at least a little bit used to it, it's time to start trying to bring the wheel in the air.
The way I bring it up is to stand staggered, going at about 3500 rpm's, and then BOUNCE. Now a lot goes on when you bounce it, you're compressing the suspension, you're pulling the clutch in most of the way, and you're giving it a lot of gas.
When I drop the clutch I usually drop it around 10,500, right at peak horsepower.
I also never fully pull the clutch in, I use my middle and index fingers and pull it in to my nuckles, this way you're holding on with the other fingers.
You want to be rolling on the throttle right when you start to pull the clutch in, maybe half throttle or so to bring the revs up quick, and then drop it as soon as the shocks are at their lowest so as to maximize the rebound affect.
The clutch is only in for less than a second but in that time you should roll on the gas hard and then drop the clutch, and then give it more gas.
Now if you do all of this but the front only jerks, or maybe hops up a couple inches but then drops back down you're not staying on the gas.
After dropping the clutch you have to give it a little more gas, around 3/4 throttle to bring it up, other wise if you let off of it you're just going to get engine braking and nothing will happen.
It just takes practice but the more you do it the more you'll feel comfortable doing it. Go out and make yourself spend 15 minutes or half an hour of non-stop practicing, or practice until you get it to lift a couple inches.
But be safe and WEAR YOU GEAR! Boots, jeans, jacket, helmet and gloves. If you go down without them you're going to have some ugly road rash.
SWEAT WASHES OFF, ROAD RASH DOESN'T.
If you have questions about any of this IM me, got2josh. I'd love to see how it's going for you and stuff. Good luck!
As I'm sure you've found out, the katana really lacks in power, so it's next to impossible to power it up, which leaves you with the clutch method.
Now before you find a parking lot (empty) and start popping the clutch make sure you ride around for a few minutes to get the tires warmed up, longer if it's cold out. Because the front end's really heavy the rear tire tends to just spin when you try to clutch up if it's still cold.
Right now I'm still working on getting the beast to BP and holding it there, because the front end is so heavy balance point is really high on this bike, making it take more courage to bring it up that high, but it can be done.
Now I've tried every method out there and the only way that I've found to be consistenly reliable is to clutch it up while standing staggered, left foot on the back left peg and right foot on the front right peg covering the brake.
When you're standing, especially staggered, it brings your weight toward the back of the bike, both giving the tire more traction and making the front lighter, making it easier to wheelie. It feels really, REALLY weird standing up, but you just have to learn to get comfortable with it, once you get comfy it feels natural. To get used to clutching up without actually wheelying I would ride around the parking lot for a little while just slipping the clutch 1000 RPM's to get used to the feeling of that while standing.
Now to wheelie the kat it also really helps to bounce the front suspension to get the rebound. When you push down hard on the bars the forks are going to compress, and when they come back up they're going to push the front end up as well, making it a lot easier to wheelie.
To do this you want to stand and almost LUNGE foreward to compress and then slip the clutch and start to rev it up and then drop it. The big thing is to use your weight to compress the shocks and then get your weight toward the back of the bike as you drop the clutch. It sounds complicated but it's all about feel, the more you do t the more it makes sense.
Now to the good stuff.
Once you get used to standing up, at least a little bit used to it, it's time to start trying to bring the wheel in the air.
The way I bring it up is to stand staggered, going at about 3500 rpm's, and then BOUNCE. Now a lot goes on when you bounce it, you're compressing the suspension, you're pulling the clutch in most of the way, and you're giving it a lot of gas.
When I drop the clutch I usually drop it around 10,500, right at peak horsepower.
I also never fully pull the clutch in, I use my middle and index fingers and pull it in to my nuckles, this way you're holding on with the other fingers.
You want to be rolling on the throttle right when you start to pull the clutch in, maybe half throttle or so to bring the revs up quick, and then drop it as soon as the shocks are at their lowest so as to maximize the rebound affect.
The clutch is only in for less than a second but in that time you should roll on the gas hard and then drop the clutch, and then give it more gas.
Now if you do all of this but the front only jerks, or maybe hops up a couple inches but then drops back down you're not staying on the gas.
After dropping the clutch you have to give it a little more gas, around 3/4 throttle to bring it up, other wise if you let off of it you're just going to get engine braking and nothing will happen.
It just takes practice but the more you do it the more you'll feel comfortable doing it. Go out and make yourself spend 15 minutes or half an hour of non-stop practicing, or practice until you get it to lift a couple inches.
But be safe and WEAR YOU GEAR! Boots, jeans, jacket, helmet and gloves. If you go down without them you're going to have some ugly road rash.
SWEAT WASHES OFF, ROAD RASH DOESN'T.
If you have questions about any of this IM me, got2josh. I'd love to see how it's going for you and stuff. Good luck!
or if you dont want to go through these 47 steps, go buy you a GIXXER or a CBR. its alot eaiser.
11-19-2004, 04:10 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Originally Posted by FHL
You're not in the bicycle section, you're in the how to wheelie section giving advice on how to wheelie when you've never even ridden a high power and dangerous sport bike
I'd like to know how you could possibly know what you're doing, I could give you my 954 and I would bet all my money you'd either drop it trying to get it out of the parking space or pull a 6 inch wheelie.
I was fixing my 954 and putting a new shift lever on it when Doodle12345 said to do a wheelie on my 200 and take some video, I propped the camera up on my brothers car set the timer and did one. The reason I got so close to the house is becaue I wanted the wheelie to be visible. I would have ran into it had I kept the wheelie up longer. I don't need a 954 to pull a wheelie as you already have evidence of this, and the countless 1st gear wheelies I did on my 600.
No I think it's time for you to leave, if I didn't know any better you're that same ZX-636 punk that told everyone on sportbikes.net he looped his bike he's never owned.
I'd like to know how you could possibly know what you're doing, I could give you my 954 and I would bet all my money you'd either drop it trying to get it out of the parking space or pull a 6 inch wheelie.
I was fixing my 954 and putting a new shift lever on it when Doodle12345 said to do a wheelie on my 200 and take some video, I propped the camera up on my brothers car set the timer and did one. The reason I got so close to the house is becaue I wanted the wheelie to be visible. I would have ran into it had I kept the wheelie up longer. I don't need a 954 to pull a wheelie as you already have evidence of this, and the countless 1st gear wheelies I did on my 600.
No I think it's time for you to leave, if I didn't know any better you're that same ZX-636 punk that told everyone on sportbikes.net he looped his bike he's never owned.
BTW, i have ridden a "high power dangerous" sport bike, and yes i have wheelied it (man the owner was PISSED) i haven't droped a bike and my job is to transport bikes, I've not once dropped one....EVER
Tewll me this, was my advice wrong? did i say rev to rev limit and dump the clutch? NO
i told him exactly what i have been told, and i also said to cover the rear brake, A SAFETY PRE CAUTION.
I even said DOn't try it! So you sound like a retard for not reading my post.
See here you go doubting other poeple, which is why you get flamed allt he time.
And I derserve to get flamed? yet I was trying to help someone and you were crashing, and you didn't derserve to get flamed? again, your a retard.
Lol, you think it's time i leave? Why because Mr.15 has gotten you beat in ever arguement since the first? because your in the wrong and you know it? listen Mr.17, GROW UP and GET OVER YOUR SELF
11-19-2004, 04:29 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Keokuk, Ia
Age: 44
Posts: 394
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Originally Posted by bkrgurl
I own a 2004 Katana 600 and want to learn how to do wheelies on it. However, I have no idea how to do it. Does anyone ride one as well, or at least know how to pull it up into a wheelie?
I've never wheelied a katuna but a few of my friends tried and it takes alot of a$$. Better off buying a Honda.
Good Luck
Be Safe
11-19-2004, 10:03 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brockton, MA
Age: 36
Posts: 721
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
I'm not saying that the katana is a good stunt bike, or even close, and I'll be the first to tell you that if you want to wheelie get a gsxr or a cbr or something, all the way.
But she asked how to wheelie what she has, and since I've figured it out already I'm just sharing my knowledge of the bike.
If I were to do it again I would buy and older gix instead of the newer katana.
But she asked how to wheelie what she has, and since I've figured it out already I'm just sharing my knowledge of the bike.
If I were to do it again I would buy and older gix instead of the newer katana.
11-19-2004, 10:52 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Canada
Age: 41
Posts: 3,058
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Someone one a zx-10 trying to teach someone on a katana to wheelie... Well anyway, my first bike was a katana and ill tell you that the only way to do it is to go at least -1 in the front and up 3 in the back. That way you wont have to clutch it very hard. Also try bouncing it up using the forks.. The katana makes max tourque at 8000rpm so you need to start rolling on untill about 5500rpm than quickly chop the throttle. when the forks dip all the way crack the gas full open, the tire should loft a few inches and you should be at about 7000rpm, chop the gas at that point and let the tire come down, when the forks hit rock bottom, whack the gas full and it will come up. You want the tire to start lifting at 7500rpm or so. That way when it makes max tourque at 8000 the tire will be a foot off the ground and the bike will power up the rest. By no means is this a good method but it works and for beginers it is a good way to start. 
let me know if it worked for you..
11-19-2004, 11:00 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Originally Posted by SCOTT_Chychul
Someone one a zx-10 trying to teach someone on a katana to wheelie... Well anyway, my first bike was a katana and ill tell you that the only way to do it is to go at least -1 in the front and up 3 in the back. That way you wont have to clutch it very hard. Also try bouncing it up using the forks.. The katana makes max tourque at 8000rpm so you need to start rolling on untill about 5500rpm than quickly chop the throttle. when the forks dip all the way crack the gas full open, the tire should loft a few inches and you should be at about 7000rpm, chop the gas at that point and let the tire come down, when the forks hit rock bottom, whack the gas full and it will come up. You want the tire to start lifting at 7500rpm or so. That way when it makes max tourque at 8000 the tire will be a foot off the ground and the bike will power up the rest. By no means is this a good method but it works and for beginers it is a good way to start. let me know if it worked for you..
11-20-2004, 11:00 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brockton, MA
Age: 36
Posts: 721
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
hehe, clever man, it's weird how that works.
About your method scott. Well, you said that the only way to get it up was to gear it -1 +3, but I wheelie mine stock. For stit down power wheelies yes, but not for standups. When you're sitting you're weight is much more over the front of the bike, making it take more engine power to lift it.
You can achive almost the same amount of bounce while standing and using your weight to compress the shocks, instead of using the method you described. Not that's it's bad, I'm sure it would work, but there are easier ways to do this.
And if you have -1 +3 you should be able to clutch it up in second pretty good, first would be wicked easy.
And the only other thing is that you said it works well for beginners, but I have to disagree with this. Power wheelies are 10x more dangerous than clutch wheelies. You don't have nearly the control that you have when you pop the clutch, and for this reason it comes up unpredictabley, making it tons easier to loop or screw something up.
About your method scott. Well, you said that the only way to get it up was to gear it -1 +3, but I wheelie mine stock. For stit down power wheelies yes, but not for standups. When you're sitting you're weight is much more over the front of the bike, making it take more engine power to lift it.
You can achive almost the same amount of bounce while standing and using your weight to compress the shocks, instead of using the method you described. Not that's it's bad, I'm sure it would work, but there are easier ways to do this.
And if you have -1 +3 you should be able to clutch it up in second pretty good, first would be wicked easy.
And the only other thing is that you said it works well for beginners, but I have to disagree with this. Power wheelies are 10x more dangerous than clutch wheelies. You don't have nearly the control that you have when you pop the clutch, and for this reason it comes up unpredictabley, making it tons easier to loop or screw something up.
11-21-2004, 03:55 PM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Canada
Age: 41
Posts: 3,058
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Got2josh i think you have to go back to when you first started, there is no way you just got on your bike and were bouncing up standups,,, You have to learn sit down first,, im not talking about carring it for a mile i am talking about simple up and down just to get the feel for bringing it up.. And i agree clutching is the way to go, but not for a beginer.
11-22-2004, 05:34 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mason, Michigan
Age: 39
Posts: 245
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Thanks to all the guys helping me learn to wheelie. Got2josh thanks for the detailed info. Everyone that is bitching please shut the hell up. We are all here for the same reason. Lets just get along.
11-23-2004, 11:18 AM
#34
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brockton, MA
Age: 36
Posts: 721
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Originally Posted by SCOTT_Chychul
Got2josh i think you have to go back to when you first started, there is no way you just got on your bike and were bouncing up standups,,, You have to learn sit down first,, im not talking about carring it for a mile i am talking about simple up and down just to get the feel for bringing it up.. And i agree clutching is the way to go, but not for a beginer.
So no, I didn't just start out with sitdowns but I learned very quickly that standups are the way to go, and if someone had told me before I started to just forget about bringing it up while sitting down I would have appreciated it.
11-23-2004, 11:04 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brockton, MA
Age: 36
Posts: 721
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
ya, but if you can stunt a katana you can stunt anything. And if you learn to stunt on a big powerful bike you're not going to learn the technique, you'll just rely on the brute power instead of finese. I think that learning the clutch/bounce on the kat will really help me when I get a 00-03 (looking) gix 750 over the winter.
11-25-2004, 11:31 PM
#38
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Windsor - Canada
Age: 44
Posts: 504
Re: How to wheelie on a Katana 600
Originally Posted by Got2josh
ya, but if you can stunt a katana you can stunt anything. And if you learn to stunt on a big powerful bike you're not going to learn the technique, you'll just rely on the brute power instead of finese. I think that learning the clutch/bounce on the kat will really help me when I get a 00-03 (looking) gix 750 over the winter.
Yea.. you'll appreciate it.. I learned on a ninja 250 / ninja 500 and an 03 SV650S.. I just got my '00 Gixxer 750 and you appreciate it all the more when it becomes soooooo easy. I've driven buddies Katanas.. they are so heavy.. but I like the squishy seats.
