Up0n0ne

Haha, that's funny right thur. Maybe, we'll see... I'll hook it all back up, test it out and post up pics of the 05'-06'
Basically the same but minor diff. like clerifying what we just went through. haha.

old man roger

bottom line if there wasn't a line going to it and it ran fine then put the bike back together and see how it runs..

you could have put it back together and taken it apart again in the amount of time we have been posting about it......lol

Up0n0ne

Haha, Yeah I know, but now it's bedtime. So we'll see tomarrow. I appreciate you bustin your brain with me. I know it's hard when the bike isn't in front of ya.

Thanks again.

old man roger

cool post up after you ride it

Up0n0ne

KLEEN AIR MOD 05'-06' 636

Pretty much the same as the rest, but due to the fact I had a hard time understanding some of it I figured I'd write one with pictures for the next guy.
I noticed a huge difference after doing this.


Parts removed, Tools & Supplies Used

I went to O'Rielly's and here are the supplies I bought.
Assorted Vacc. Caps- $7.99
6'foot of 1/2" inch Diameter Heater Hose-$2.99
(I only used 29"inches of hose)
Note: All stock clamps were re-used.



Step 1.
After removing all necessary hardware to lift tank, prop tank up. I used a 7" piece of 2x4 (worked great)
A. Remove fuel line, pinch the orange clip and gently pry loose with small flat-head screw driver. (You don't need to remove inner orange clip, it will click inside of black cap thingy)
B.Also follow fuel pump wires and disconnect harness, located under seat.
C. Loosen air box clamps, I believe it will be 3.0mm or 3.5 mm Allen key. Loosen approx. 6 turns out (lefty loosey-righty tighty). Use 10mm socket for the front airbox bolt, located in front of air box. If you don't want the fuel pump to sit there and drip, grab a vacc. cap from the assorted pack you just bought and cap it.





Step 2.
Remove main tank bolt using 10mm wrench on one side and a 10mm. rachet on the other.
This pic also shows the fuel pump wiring harness.



Step 3.
After tank is out of the way, remove the hose that goes from the back of air box to the case. This hose I cut down and used with a plug I found in my garage to cap of back of air box.
The 1/2" hose will be going from the case up to the T-Valve.


Step 4.
I did not remove air box completely. I just flipped it out of the way. When flipped backwards you will see all the hose inlets that need to be capped.



Step 5.
This is the pick of the stock T-Valve set-up. Just grab, wiggle, and pull, pops right off.
Remove the little grey vacuum hose and cap where it was connected to. Disconnect the long black hose that's going to the air box, but keep it connected to the T-Valve. This will help with leverage when taking apart the T-Valve.
This will ultimately be replaced with the 1/2'inch hose that will go from the T-Valve to the case.


Step 6.
This step may be optional, but it's what I did to feel all comfy inside.lol
When taking apart the T-Valve use a flathead screw-driver and patiently pry open each little tab. You will need to do the same for the bottom as well as top. 3 parts total. When it's open remove the hard-to-remove silver clip, that holds it all together. After it's apart I used a drill with a 1/2" inch bit and drilled the center out.
Pics of the T-Valve apart and then put back together and vacuum line capped.





Step 7.
Everything installed. The second pic is how the hose was ran so the tank would close.




Step 8. NOTE:
When reinstalling the tank route the 1/2" hose on the inside of the fuel line. I had it on the outside the first try and the tank wouldn't close.





This is about the clearest I can make it. The bike runs a ton better. After re-installing everything I started the bike up and let it warm up. After warming up I revved it up (open, close throttle quickly) and it stalled out. Started it back up, idle was a little rough for a few seconds, revved it a few times, let idle, turned off, back on. Now idles and runs smooth.
I figured the computer was re-reading and re-setting everything.

Big thanks to Old Man Roger for helping me trouble shoot.

Marc
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Stubbz

thats a good showing of exactly how to do it, y can't someone do that with a non cali version for an 03-04 636. i want to do mine but from reading and looking at the link about the cali 636 i dont think most of the lines n parts they used are needed. maybe i'm just retarted and dont understand the words on how guys are explaining it but pix would be great. if someone did that it probly wouldn't have been 20 pages long of guys askin how to do it. just my

old man roger

the 03 is the same as the 05 and you don't need to take apart the stock t valve[clean air valve]just make sure you unplug the vaccum line that goes to it..

old man roger

and there is a drain hole in the back of the air box with a drain hose connected to it that i wouldn't plug just incase you get some moisture in there some how

Stubbz

ok well i think i got it then. i'll get soem supplies and give it a try i guess. i just dont wanna do it wrong and have the motor go on me for doing something stupid. but thanx

old man roger

it's really very simple just bypass and seal off the air box and disconnect and plug one vaccum line...

Up0n0ne

10-4 Will be connecting that back. I actually thought about that for a very split second lol. Cause like you said having it there wouldn't hurt. I wish I could go back and edit that part, but I can't. I always try to do things right the first time, the first link I believe he had his capped. I don't think it will hurt either way but like you said better to have it just in case.
Thanks for pointing that out.

old man roger

i thought about taking apart the clean air valve like you did but what i did was blow through it with no vaccum and it was an open t then i hooked up my vaccum pump to it and it was closed so i figured just unplugging the vaccum line from it was good enough

Up0n0ne

Yeah it is actually very simple. I did the whole pic. and write up deal cause sometimes the easiest things will throw ya off. As it did me.
And I think one of your post said it best, until you understand what the mod is doing for the motor, then it's hard to understand what to do period.

Up0n0ne

Again sometime the simple things, haha. I put "optional" for that step cause after I gutted it the thought came to mind. But none the less it runs like a champ now.

old man roger

now that you just went in there and did it you see how easy it is huh..

every one is worried they are gonna **** some thing up but it's very easy once you get in there and do it

Up0n0ne

Yeah. I'm mechanically inclined and understanding what the mod did for the bike made it easier to. But yeah once you get in there and see what's going on it makes even more sense.
I know when I do it it'll be done right, and if something happens then it's alot easier to trouble shoot what you've done than someone else.
I took my old bike to a supposed race garage for new pads and lines. They had to order pads, but changed out the old lines for steel braided, went back for the pads and when they installed the pads they never took off the res. cap. to compensate for the thickness of the new pads. Next thing I know I'm tumbling down Flamingo Rd. in LV. at 70mph. After that I decided the best mechanic for my bike was me.

I'm never really worried about messing it up, but some are.

old man roger

yep there is a full line on the res for a reason and i always try to make people understand that....lol

for any one thats lurking when brake fuid gets hot it expands and can cause your brakes to drag and boil your fluid or in a worse case scenario cause your brakes to lock up unexpectedly and put you in a world or hurt...

i read a thread some where about a guy that pushed his calipers in and changed his pads ,about fifteen minutes into a ride he grabbed his front brake and they worked fine but when he let go of the lever the brakes stayed on and he damn near died...lol

Up0n0ne

+ a billion

Up0n0ne

Quote:

Originally Posted by old man roger

For any one thats lurking when brake fuid gets hot it expands and can cause your brakes to drag and boil your fluid or in a worse case scenario cause your brakes to lock up unexpectedly and put you in a world or hurt...

And it did, thank the Lord it wasn't in rush hour or at an intersection.
There should be another thread on this topic alone and they should make it a sticky as well.
A write up on changing brake lines, pads, and fluid. This seems so simple to me, but even a supposed race tech. missed a crucial part of the process. I might do it if I ever get braided lines.

I did so much research on how brakes worked, as well as going around talking to mechanics at dealerships.

EEKENTERPRISES

I posted this in one other spot, however this threads helped me a lot so if I can help one fellow out, what the hell....

Did this last night.....clean air mod and removal of the tip over sensor as I still love that wheelie sensation!!!
The clean air mod will give you better low end for two reasons ... this is why racers love it.....

1- you don't get any of the hot oily air from the crank case in your airbox---Take an automotive spray gun, The air blowing by the small jet pulls paint from the canister and doesn't blow pressure into the can...... Same thing here, the exhaust blows by and pulls the hot air / oil from the crancase with it...
2- by hooking the crankcase vent tube up to the clean air valve it creates a vaccum in the crank case and that is good for a few extra horse power and a couple foot pounds of torque...OMR (aka the man) said..."it makes the bike better all around and alot of people agree ,i have even seen dyno test that show increased torque and horse power"
The stunters love it because it prevents a hydrolock situation from the bike being on its side and oil being dumped into the airbox from the breather tube....it has been argued over and over and proven, this is a great mod with no bad side effects whatsoever....

This is what it looks like stock....the directions are a bit confusing, throw 3 away, and hook 1 2 and 4 to the new t....


The pair valve removed....

1/2" Tee...it was very tight, had to vaseline the hoses to get them on, but better than too loose....

Here is a pic of the t with the hoses.....


How I sealed the airbox off, I have seen many methods, but looking around the garage I realized that some old tire valve cover caps fit perfectly and are hard enough to hold, through them in with a little epoxy and they were solid and fit perfect, looks factory...



Also here is the tipover sensor mod as well.... just cut that damn thing out and never worry about it again....
With windscreen off...

Remove the 2 screws holding the box in and disconnect the box...

Here it is removed and unclipped....

Cut off the connector and make sure there is enough room to reconnect if you want to reinstall in the feature, tie red and green together and cap white off....and clip back in....