Hey Yall

since i popped the threads on my engine mounts ive had to use 2 long shiney M10 nuts & bolts to keep my cage on, but everytime i go over a bump in the road it makes a crap creaking sound, 'like a wooden floor board' LOL

Yesterday i fitted rubber washers between the FI cage and the frame, but today the noise is even louder Im sounding like Windy Miller going down the road.

Any ideas how i can stop the cage creaking???

 

Try linseed oil

 

Try taking the wooden floor boards off your bike

 

theres no wood on it 'genius' its the FI Cage thats creaking

 

it was a joke genius

 

it was a bit crap though hey!

so have you got any idea how to stop my damn cage creaking?

 

is it def from the engine mounts or is it your rear subframe thats creaking!!

 

Its defo the engine mounts, the slider holder act like a little speaker if you put your head next to it ive run it without the cage an its silent.

 

if the noise has got louder since putting rubber washers on, i would guess that the creaking was due to the bolts either not being tight enough, of not sitting flush
you say youve put bolts through the original engine mounts and nuts on the end, is there anything stopping the nuts sitting flush on the mount, a lug etc,
if the nut isnt sitting flush against the inside of the mount, you will allways get movement, and that would cause a creaking noise

 

Yes, they are not flush because the back side of the mount was never meant to hold a nut, its on a angle.

Also, after time, even without crashing, the bolts bend.

What can i do?

 

andyblade79 - where have you gone dude, whats the solution???

 

did you not get replacement engine bolts with your cage??

 

if you can somehow make the back of the engine mount flush, that could help, im guessing its an ally frame so maybe file it flush, or an easier option may be to just get some washers that will sit flat, then build them up until you can get the nut to sit tight with no movement ?
this is just a thought though, im not a specialist in these matters, there must be some way of doing it, but i do reacon its that which is causing the problem tho

 

tap the motor mounts out to the next size up and get rid of that fi cage or you will just rip the new threads out

 

IM WITH OMR
tap new holes

 

Longer bolts and use a short spacer with one end filed at angle to match frame.

 

First - thanks andyblade79 for confirming the problem

If i wanted to buy an SI cage then tapping M12's would be a perfect solution, thanks for the tip OMR. SI cage is clearly the best for protecting the bike.

But the FI cage works great for road riding because its so slim without the sliders, so im going to try DST's method. Ive ordered 50 nylon washers and new M10 nuts & bolts. Filing the alloy engine mount flush would be better than washers but I have to take my engine out to file the area, i will save that job for another day

thanks for the help

 

use wood glue down in the joints

 

Not another one

 

You do NOT want to file metal off the frame. You need all the strength u can get Ant. When I say spacer, I meant a spacer ie thick walled tube with ID clearance of the bolt. You could glue the washers to form a spacer b4 filing angle, but **** the hasle, just buy a couple of spacer/distant tubes. Do it this way and your bolts won't be under shear.

Try this, not exactly what I was thinking, but should work for ya. You need to find out what material it's made from!!

http://www.kartingdirect.co.uk/product.php/510/157/