When rocking slow **** for a while the rear brakes get HOT. They don't grab anymore and right when I need them they are no where to be found. I was thinking about having a larger rear rotor made and fabricate a new mount for the caliper, and possiable also mounting a front 2 piston caliper to the rear. I can get the larger rear rotor made to what ever size for $100, and the new mount I would make.

Why??
Larger rear rotor will dissipate more heat (less brake fade)
Larger rotor will provide more stopping power (more torque on the wheel)

Anybody see any reasons this would not work or not be good? Give me your

 

i like my stock 929 brakes i wouldnt change anything


i feel for me i dont think they need to work much better

but some one who has big gearing with the idle up it could over power the stock rotor so a larger rotor could help

 

he's running f3 rotor and calipur though. that stuff will get hot and get slipery in like 20-30 mins. but then again i do ride the brake like a ****

 

Honestly,
when i 1st started riding. i used a ton of brake, got brake fade. crashed, wrecked rotors , glazed pad's, crashed bikes.

well now, i still crash bikes. BUT, use alot less brake & NEVER EVER get brake fade ne more.

before you go fabricating **** up, try running DOT 5 fluid and scuffing your rotor - by the sounds of it that ***** all glazed & won't grab.

My 900 i used to do that **** all the time, lost a sit down 12 before cause of that & F'd up huge. Brake fade SUCKS!!!!!!

Good luck bro

 

i need new pads and i need dot 5 and i need to scuff mine i need to bleed my **** real bad.

 

Honestly if you don't ride the brake you won't have a problem, learn some brake control and its all good. I used to ride mine real bad even to the point of my rotor looking like a stove burner on high as I've got some more experiance and the feel of it a little more I don't have that problem, even though I still ride the brake some. Just give it time and practice and it will get better.

 

I don't have a problem when I am riding in parking lots...It's when I get out on the roads trying to rock 1/4 - 1/2 mile wheelie at 5-10 mph. In a confined area I am fine. It's not a huge problem.....Just one that pisses me off when it does happen. Also just wanting to rock something different.

What kind of rear pads are you running? I have tried HH in the front and like them. Right now I have EBC sintered in the rear and thinkg about switching to HH's. What have you had the best luck with?

 

i run stock

 

if you are doing 10 mph just put it in first and rock that throttle. that's how we all do slow highchairs and seat standers, don't even need brake. if i'm doing highway stuff (or just street stuff) i only use the brake if i need it, like those bobbles you hit in the road and stuff. i run ebc kevlar rear pads. i tried HH but they bite WAY too much in the rear. we have a couple f2/f3's around here we stunt and haven't had problems with brake fade if you don't ride them too hard. change your pads, put fresh fluid in them (i run stock dot 4 fluid, screw all that other crap) and then if you are still getting fade try running a SS braided line. that helps out a lot for gixxer rear brake fade so i would only see it helping this situation. hell, it's a lot cheaper than doing all that crazy junk you are trying.

oh ya, and don't ride the brake.

 

what size sprocket do you run? I know i rock a big sprocket & the engine brake / throttle control is why i dont run much brake.

I run stock pads. I dont like hte racing pads - take to long to heat up.

 

**** used to happen to me too all the time ,one time i crashed in traffic bad because of brake fade, then i learned better brake control on the street and like you said it never effects me in a parking lot.
p.s. bleed your brakes more often then you need to if theyre heating up alotand your always on the street (heat brakes down the fluid and makes it not work.)
lata,
mike

 

-2 +17...about what the underpowered and overweighted F3 needs to rock SLOW with out starting to slip the clutch (haven't got that down yet).

 

with those gears you should never have to touch the brake

 

good idea

I was thinking of welding some fins on the caliper. Maybe even on the rotor.

 

run some anti freeze in a line, cooling the rotor & the caliper!

w/ -2 +17 - try backin' off the throttle w/ the bike way up - check otu how much just the motor brake brings the bike back down. regulate your height w/ teh throttle instead of standing on the brakes real hard.

word

 

if you have good balance and control....after a while your not using as much brake as you think....your using the idle and balance to hold you up...while taping the brake when needed....thats my opinion and what i have found out...doing slows...watch alot of these new videos that are out and while these guys are doing circles and slows watch there brake foot you will see about 1 brake tape every second...but quickly not hard...just my 2cents

 

i wonder if there is such thing as a rear floating rotor..... that would be tight!

 

Have you tried a steel line yet?

 

Just a quick question, when you say dot 5 brake fluid, are you referring to 5.1 or 5.0? I thought 5.0 was for heavy duty trucks and stuff like that.

 

rear brake, whats that ?!?!