Tenny

so i'm wondering whta is the affects of going down on the front and up on the back.
does it make a difference going down in the front or why not just only go up in the back? i know going down in the front makes a bigger differnce than going up in the back but does it affect low end response different depending on which sproket i change?
i'm going to either go -2 +2 or -1 +5 i want to still be able to street ride and hit around 120 so i'm trying to decide what i wanna do. any comments or a good explination of which sproket changes which i would appreciate

twist~ROC

go with the 2 down 2 up you wont lose to much in the speed and youll have the more low end power to jump the bike up in first

Tenny

cool that was my main plan. i'm wanting it to be able to pick up in 2nd with ease and still be able to pick up in 3rd also. i clutch the **** outta it in 2nd and i cannot get it to do more than pop like 8 inches off the ground. it just doesn't seem like it has enough power to follow after the clutch hits to pull it up more with my current stock.

CBR up on one

To figure out you gear ratio just divide the rear by the front sprocket.

Stock 43/15 - 2.87
-1 +5 - 3.43
-2 +2 - 3.46

In the end the -1 +5 and -2 +2 is so close to being identical that you won't be able to tell the difference. So I would go with the -1 +5 because the -2 is harder on you chain (it caused it to bend more). That and the +5 in the rear looks better than +2. But what do I know?

Quik

correct me if im wrong but i heard that changing the gearing on the bikes cause vibration and that?

by doing the -1 +5 how much easier will it be to come up? and what do they
usually run in price with a chain. and what chain to get. im not plaining on stunting my bike but would like to be able to do a few wheelies on it. right now it was a full pipe, ignition advancer and stage 2 jetted. makes 87.7 at the wheel.[dyno tuned] havent really rode it yet since the bike had been put together. the reason i was asking about the spockets is i painting the frame and the chain needs to come off. so i was thinking replacing it. any help would be appreciated

Tenny

yo bro you can do wheelies on a f3 stock pretty easy. i'm just wanting to start to learn more technical stuff and thats pretty hard to do on stock. (unles your joe brown cause he rocked the **** outta my bike stock but hes a big pimp) it doesn't make vibration and to go +2 -2 it ends up costing a little under 100 dollars. try parts411.com to find the prices these guys are pretty cheap. also if youare going +2 -2 you really dont need to change your chain at all.

CBR up on one

You could go -1 +2. That is good overall gears that won't hurt top end much. It will help acceleration a good bit, and also you will be able to ride second gear wheelies (almost impossiable with stock). As far as chain, get a good quality chain, you don't want to get some cheap crap that could bust when you clutch it...if that happens it could bust you case.

Quik

looks good thanks, but a need alittle more info. on my old katana the guy sold
me a DID X-ring chain costed around 160 . this was my first bike. would this be good to get or just get a standard 0-ring chain. and what is the size of the chain.520,530,???? which one should i get im thinking of the -1,+2 will that still fit under the chain guard.[bike came with a blinging aluminum one].


with the -1,+2 and the mods i have will i still need to clutch it or could i just
chop the throttle and it will come up in second?

jdridin

Learn to clutch first bro just keep your foot on your rear brake. It will save you a alot of time when learning 2nd and 3rd gear wheelies and will get you to the bp faster.

CBR up on one

If you are switching both front and rear sprocket I would switch to 520...it is lighter that 530 and just as strong. The DID X ring is good and what I run, but any good O ring or X ring from DID or RK will be good. As for clutching it...you will never be able to roll it up in second. I am +17 in the rear and rolls up in first good, but not at all in second.

Quik

ive heard ppl saying they just chop and bounce at the same time and it comes up in second. as far as the gearing and mods wouldnt it want to come up better

MikeM

Just get a huge sprocket. Dont waste your time with a -2+2, get at least -2+10

Quik

i dotn plan on stunting it. just would like to toss it up once in awhile with the least amount of effort. i like the twisties and crusing it with a little wheelies in the mix

CBR up on one

[QUOTE=rookie96F3]ive heard ppl saying they just chop and bounce at the same time and it comes up in second. as far as the gearing and mods wouldnt it want to come up better[/QUOT

Well who ever you were talking to is stupid and never rode a F3. This bike in no way shape or form could be bounced up in second. Plus why the fu(k would you want to bounce it up???? Grow some ***** and do it right, clutch it up. If you can't do that, you don't need to be on a bike...plain and simple.

covertwar

you do more you gotta buy a new chain

Quik

[QUOTE=CBR up on one]ok, homie why cant it come up in second doing a bounce? what lack of power
i compared mine to a f4i on the dyno and it had 3hp more than one and i got a buddy that bounces up his f4i in second. and the whole clutch it up, i rather learn how to pull it up with out the clutch

using clutch=hard on drivetrain

Quik

ok so a -2,+2 can be used with a stock lenght chain and i should get a 520?

aNskY

hmm... i have a stock geared f3 and i can bounce it up in second

JonnyJ

520 is a lighter and not as strong of chain as a 530. Are 530's that much more expensive. I had a 533 on my gixxer (1986) and they were like $200 for a chain but thats cause NO ONE uses 533.

I'm going to test ride a 98 f3 tomorrow so I am interested in the gearing change too. I was thinking of a -2 +2, mainly cause I don't want to buy a new chain. From my experience I perfer to power it up, I just feel alot more in control by powering it up than clutching it.

aNskY

youll never get slow stuff if you dont learn to use the clutch