yes it will fit i have a 200 on my 929 and my friend has his 190 pilot off his wrecked 929 on his 95 RR

 

a 17inch front will make it twitchy--and if your doin long endos u need tha 16 inch(trust me) the engineers and designers know what there doin tha bike was designed 4 a 180 it handels corectly that way----if its just looks your goin 4 ur takin away from handlin---youll see

 

put a 200 on and u will have to fight tha bike down in tha corners --u r not listen---it will not look good when your slakin in tha turns wen ridin with ur buddies--tha bike was designed 4 a 180 they know what their doin in tha design room -leave tha 180---why do u want a undertail whats gonna happen when u scrape or drop tha bike their goes ur money

 

i have done both, put PM rims front and back, 120-17 front, and now wearing a 190/17 rear, i was wearing a 200 dragon and let me tell ya man, disgustingly heavy in the corners...imagine a twitchy bike (( 17" front )) being heavy to pull down in the corners.. it was a handfull!!.. so i downgraded to a 190.. alot better, and manageable man... dont waste your money pal, you wont be happy and youll soon be back trying to sell your 200 size..

and as far as the nose... i was telling gieststar about it, rides like an R1 till you put a stab on it, YOU WILL NEED IT!!!..

 

the 200 won't fit the 900RR my 929 came stock with a 190 and i went up to a 20 and have no problem getting it to its edge...don't believe the hype

 

Jaxon...
yah it does...i had one on there... i doubt theres a swingarm differance between the UK fireblade and the US RR, although i do have a differant chain adjusters setup....but anyway

 

take the carbs off, send em to me along with $100 and it'll run like a bran new un when ya get em back..... sounds like it needs a tune up and the carbs cleaned

 

listen 2 ghost --he works on my double r--he knows what hes doin ---- trust me

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by GEISTSTAR
[B]a 17inch front will make it twitchy--and if your doin long endos u need tha 16 inch(trust me)

LMAO

were did u get this info from??????

bunch of crap........mabey yer 4 foot stoppies, lmao

 

tha 16 in makes for better endos and handlin ask any who stunts it--i got a rr and ride with guys with em-anyone who has a 17 complains they should not have done that--tha desidners of tha bike know what there doin-tha bike was designed for it so use it

 

ok then u can talk to me, i stunt a 98 900rr, and i know 3 other dudes that run a 17 inch fromnt rim also, all love it......

 

I believe that 200 rears will not make you slower. I just put a 200 on my 929. I will report back, but I don't think it will. It does require more steering effort to get a lean angle dialed in for sure.

As far as 17" vs 16" fronts .. putting a larger diameter wheel on front should increase the trail. This should allow for higher stoppies before becoming unstable and/or require less physical control at the handlebars to keep the stoppie stable.

At low heights, no steering input is needed (only brake) to perform a stoppie. At a certain height (angle of about 14 degrees), the trail of the front tire contact patch disappears and reappears in front of the steering rake. This will happen at a higher stoppie height with a larger front tire, and thus higher stoppies should be more stable up until that point.

This is all from things that I know. I'm not guessing, and this isn't based on what some other rider or mechanic told me. I can do over 150' stoppies too.

I have a stock front rim, and I get wobbles when it gets up too high. I'm pretty sure they'd stay away longer with a bigger front tire. The problem I think is once you go and put the trail in front of the rake (past about 14-15 degrees), you can get bigger wobbles with the bigger rim.

Also, the bike is definitely not designed to do high stoppies. Stop quickly, yes, but doing 100 foot and longer endos at very high rear wheel heights is not a requirement for the design of the bike. If it were, the forks would bend back or flex back on purpose when you brought up the rear tire in order to prevent the steering from wanting to go off to the side. Doing 1-inch high (and lower) stoppies, I will admit, are important to the design, as they are part of racing. But just about any kind of contact patch trail at all will handle this.

The 929/954 has a rake of 23.45 degrees and a stock trail of 97mm (3.8 inches). Since the seat height is about 55" let me do some calculations:

tan(23.45) = .4337
Triple clamp height with stock rim: 55"
Triple clamp height with 17" rim: 56"
55" * tan(23.45) = 23.85 inches
56" * tan(23.45) = 24.29 inches

So with a 17" rim, the rake intersects the ground at 24.29 - 23.85 inches further in front of the trail, increasing the trail by 0.44 inches to a total of 4.24 inches from 3.8 inches.

This is an increase of 11.15% in the distance of the trail.

For a 16" wheel, 3.8 inches of trail equals 3.8 / 16 or .2375 radians. Converting to degrees gives 13.61 degrees. This is the stoppie angle (relative to the road) where side forces don't align the tire forwards for you anymore.

With a 17" wheel, the angle is 4.24 / 17" or .2494 radians. Converting to degrees gives us 14.29 degrees.

So "according to my calculations" the bigger tire is better until you get up to a "stoppie angle" past 14.29 degrees. Actually it continues to be better for some stoppie heights past 14.29 degrees. But at some point, the bigger wheel will work against you and will throw the bike off to one side MORE violently than the 16" tire would have. And given that the balance point for a stoppie WITH a rider on the bike is well beyond 45 degrees, your talking about a REVERSE trail of more than ( 45 - 14.29 ) degrees which turns into a reverse trail of about 8.5 inches or more than twice the aligning trail distance of about 4 inches.

This means that if you start steering of to the side at a 45 degree stoppie angle, the bike will "disalign" the steering during the stoppie with double the steering column torque for that steering angle as compared to the alignment torque from the same steering angle while on two wheels.

So if you want longer stoppies, lean forwards to keep the rear tire lower or be real good to steer the puppy straight and don't let it go off to one side. Cause once it starts going off to one side, if you're more than 14 degrees high, it going to keep going off to one side. And the higher the angle, the more it's going to want to go off to the side.

I'm no 500' "real" competitor .. but I do know what I'm talking about. And I think if you asked people who are doing 500' endos, they'll tell you that steering at those extreme heights is going to be tough with either a 16" or a 17" rim. The difference is minor compared to that killer negative trail you gotta deal with during those extreme heights.

For distance stoppies, I think you might want to have some custom forks that are "bent way the ___ back" with a really small wheel and set up a 12" trail behind the rake instead of a standard 4" trail. Then you could do stoppies for days without hardly any steering effort at all.

Here's a quick hack of a what a 929 modified for distance stoppies might look like:



--
- Ahigh

 

WOW that was thechnical! It makes sense.

 

I've always heard that the bigger front will definetley help in stoppies....

 

i hope we took into tha fact of using a dampner????? all stunters please use one tha 300$ is worth your life!!! my rr has one and is on full lock during rollin endos that takes care of any slapping this way the only slapping is that of on lookers goin oh shizzy or a.k.a kevin macalister home alone

 

NAGS:
I think the bigger front tire should help steer a little in the beginning. But there's a couple of other things too. One is that the braking tireforce from a given set of brakes (braking torque) is reduced due to the bigger rim. This should only matter when trying to initially get it up though.

But I don't buy the bigger is better for stoppies. Have you tried at 17"? I'll admit I haven't, and I could be mistaken, but I couldn't imagine bigger being better.. I could be convinced.

GEISTSTAR:
I dare you to do a 100mph 30 degrees or higher stoppie on full lock with the damper. Report back with your findings.

Dampers damp. They don't eliminate side forces on the front tire. Your wobble will just wobble the whole bike instead of the front tire .. that's all. The only way to prevent wobble is by steering.

It is true that at slower speeds, damping can definitely help makes things easier to handle, and you are generally correct that it will help manage the front tire wobble. Just don't convince people they need no fear for stoppie wobbles with a damper. Believing that could kill someone in a high speed stoppie.

--
- Ahigh

 

i havent tried a 100 mph stoppie yet --to b honest thast not my thing im all about tha 12ssss---and if i do ill let u know-also i think its bettr to have a dampner than 2 not have one