YSRRider

i've never seen a basket break from over tightening the bolts, i've seen many of them break off in the hub but thankfully they were loose enough to be spun out with a sharp pic. the bolts are fragile. Back in the day I had a few buddies that just screwed them in till they were bottomed out by not torqued and they backed out and wore through the case cover, one of those bikes was like a 1982 YZ465? and the other was an early 90's CR125.


I can give you a walk through on replacing the parts, hit me up before you take it apart though.

BadassCBR1000RR

Don't be intimidated by doing your own clutch, it is pretty simple. I just did one for my buddy, who blew up a clutch disc and took out his oil pump chain, and had to drop the oil pan too. Just take your time, and use service manual if you can get one, which will give you all the torque spec's needed. Good luck.

BadassCBR1000RR

New springs would be a good idea too, gives a way better clamping force on the clutch...

Black03R1

i called honda today to get a parts list and price. when he came back on the line he said he was already up to $800 in parts and counting. He said thats was to replace the pressure plate, bearing, plates, fibers blah blah...

I was expecting maybe $200 in parts or so..

he also tells me even if I do myself to bring in to a service place, them or elsewhere, to have it checked over by mechanics to tell me what I can and cannot use again if I dont want to replace everything.

Im just guna start to take it apart, and ill post up when I get there. Then ill order parts after I see what needs replacing and what doesnt. Ive done clutches on a car before, just not a bike.

JesseJacobs

HOLY ****?!?! 800? He's TRIPPIN!!!!!!!

YSRRider

LOL!!


take it apart first....... take the pressure plate off to get the plates out, I like to check the direction of the metal plates to see if they have been tampered with previously. The metal plates are stamped out of steel, this leaves you with a rounded edge and a sharp edge. Hondas always have the rounded edge facing IN. Most people dont know about this or they will argue it, but one honda service manual I was reading, stated that they must all be installed round edge in! I always check when I pull clutches apart and I put them in the same way. So far every bike I have taken apart the rounded edge was always facing in. OBVIOUSLY they pay attention to this at the factory. I believe the first and last fiber on the F4i is different, I think the one that is on the outside has green paint on it and notice which grove its placed in. I think the innermost plate is skinnier than the rest and there is also a thin metal spacer in there. you need to pay attention to all this if you havent pulled a clutch apart before. Most likely you just need the plates but inspect all parts for cracks.


How much are ALL the plates and new springs? I'll get my price, I get a discount, if it saves you money with shipping I'll order them and you can send me a money order.


if you need new clutch parts go on ebay, I saw complete clutches for like $100 when I was looking and all I need was a basket.

after you install all the new parts, that pin that is in the center of the pressure plate, that links to the shaft inside the cover, you have to be careful when putting the cover back on, I thought I had mine locked in properly and it wasnt. As I was tightening the cover bolts it snapped. Its only a $15 part but save yourself the hassle and pay close attention to that.

for best results, soak your new fibers in fresh oil over night. Best way to do this while conserving oil......pour fresh oil on your fingers, rub each plate down with a generous amount and place into a thick zip-loc bag. oil each one, stack them in the bag and pour a little more oil in so you can work it around on them.

DIRTYJEFF636s

jlh42581

full clutch rebuild kit should be no more than $160

jebova2301

dude...800 is on crack. the rebuild for my r6(i know...not an f4i, but just for comparison) was 155 plus 8 bucks shipping for the fibers and steels, and then i had to get 4 quarts of oil(bike takes 2.85 with a filter change then the extra quart to soak the fibers in), and then clutch springs. the springs should run you no more than 20 bucks...thats still high. basically, you should be looking at about 225 to do the clutch and an oil change all at once. thats if the basket isnt broke. i dont know how much a basket costs.

that stealership is just trying to **** you over and sell you a ton of random **** you dont need

YSRRider

I added up a new basket, pressure plate, pressure plate bearing, all plates and springs and i get a total of $489 from an online site.


If I add up EVERYTHING under the clutch diagram I get a total of $729.97


you dont need all those other parts dude, and if you need a basket or pressure plate, Id order a full clutch off ebay. the price on the pressure plate is $45.00 IF you need a new one, that might be hard to find on ebay, most people just want to off the entire clutch and be done with it. You cant nickel and dime alot of these parts on ebay.

Towlieee

If your basket and everything happens to be broke, then just buy a complete used setup on ebay or a forum

If your just need fibers, then get a full clutch kit from honda for around $120

YSRRider

squid, have you read any of my posts?

Black03R1

I got into the garage for a little bit. after getting the cage and fairings off i popped off the cover and stopped for the night. Next I'm guessing the 5 bolts come out holding in springs then continue from there..Correct me if I'm wrong. I'll be doing it tomorrow.

Towlieee

yep just pop them 5 bolts out, then the pressure plate comes off, then all the disks.

If the disks aren't physically broke, you have to check the basket for grooves to make sure it doesn't need replaced.

If no disks are broke, then it might just be bad luck and maybe you rode the clutch to hard and burn it up? Maybe it was out of adjustment and slowly burning up over time?

How many miles are on the engine

My friends 600rr only has around 16k miles and his clutch is toast But it's due to doing burnouts completely wrong
I skimmed it and I thought you were saying it would be expensive on ebay but I re-read it
Can probably find a used basket for $60-$140 WITH used clutch plates already in it, however I can't find any cheap setups on ebay atm

Towlieee

Also if you wanted, you could pop all the plates out, and sand the METALS with 60-80 grit, or even put them on the driveway and swirld them around to put deep scratches on them.. Clean them off with brake or carb cleaner, and reinstall in the motor and test it out..

Won't hurt anything, might bring your clutch back to life, if it doens't, it's time wasted and that's it. Wouldn't even need to re-seal the case just for a 10 minute test, unless you already drained your oil


If you don't have a clutch arm mod done yet, do it while you have it apart.. Either weld it, or spend a few bucks on bolts and bolt it, it's worth it to do it while you are in there
Also can't hurt to install a manual CCT while your in there, then you can check your cam chain tension properly for peace of mind, that's how I did mine since I did my clutch arm at same time

Black03R1

yea the oil is already drained. sucks too because I just changed the oil and only rode about 3 hours on it. I was told the bike had a manual cam chain tensioner when I bought it. Was I lied to then?

No clutch arm mod done yet. just did the msr raptor and that was it. Also see I can adjust the throttle cable on the other end by the clutch arm there. Wish I was hip to that before.

I hope its not broke too badly. It really just **** the bed outta nowhere and like I said I had to ride it home on idle only. I only feel better since after I let it cool it rode again and just slipped while gassing on it. We'll see tomorrow.

YSRRider

when you take the 5 bolts off for the pressure plate, try to do them evenly to keep the pressure even. an air ratchet or 1/4 impact on low pressure is a good tool to use. takes about 10 minutes to ratchet all those ******* out!

ehhh.... i'd pass on the rejuvenating of the clutch discs. if the metals are bad most of the time its because they are warped and you are not getting full contact to the fibers. If they show black/blue/purple spots they are garbage. YOU COULD just replace the metals but there is no telling how much life you would get out of the clutch again.... its better to replace all the plate and be done with it. Time is money and so is a gallon of oil. $150-$175 for new plates and only having to do it once is a ******* deal in my opinion!


notice that the first fiber is not in the same groves as the middle ones? that disc is also a different thickness than the others. I know the outer one has green paint on the edges and my Honda manual says the inside plates have purple but I dont remember seeing purple when I had my bike apart....... and the plate all the way in the back is thinner, has a large inside diameter.

Towlieee

Only reason I say to sand the disks, is someone who doen'st know what they are doing, can burn a brand new clutch up in 100 miles.. and It's nothing to do with wear, just to do with glazing over

If his bike is low mileage, just sand and it'll probably run fine

my bike wouldn't wheelie at ALL at 16k miles when I fucked up a burnout, my clutch was fucked I thought.. about 2 weeks later it came back, after a couple hundred miles of normal riding, now another 18k later and my clutch still works great

Ahh man your clutch is just glazed
there is a 50% chance it would come back to normal just from riding it normal for a few weeks, and it might come back just from sanding

worst thing, you just buy new fibers/plates and springs and it'll be perfect

Towlieee

from quad racers I talk to, they say they blow fibers out all the time, every few races they put in new fibers, and just sand, or their recommendation, rub their plates on their rough cement to put groves in it
they say they sand their plates EVERY RACE! (beats buying a new clutch every race)

Not saying it's the best idea, but a lot of off-road racers do it, as the steals last almost forever.. If you sand the burnt spot off the plates, they are about as good as new
Not much wear gonna happen on the steels

but no doubt, if your purchasing anything, purchase everything new and be done.. But it literally takes 30 minues to sand the plates, clean, reinstall, and test. If it works you just saved $120, if it doesn't you wasted 30 minues, which is probably more then you wasted on SL today like me =P

YSRRider

ehhhhhh **** glazing......... Once its heated that hot its junk, its never the same. its apart, just replace it.