tsweers89

Well wnet on a ride last night, came back everything was normal. turned it off and went back to start it an hour later, pull in the clutch and go to put it into gear and it stalls ads if its still in gear. tried again same thing. Clutch lever seems to be adjusted properly with little end play in it. checked for fraying and none was found. So i persume one of my clutch diskd is cracked? Havent pulled it off yet, just getting a basic idea before i do.
Also if it is the clutch what do you guys recommend as a replacement? stock or something stronger?

Also one other problem. Upon removing my FI cage (previous owner did not mention this to me) The left side motor mount is stripped and the bolt holiding it is just spinning inside. What are my options here?

Any help would be appreciated.

jlh42581

cut the bolt head off with a cutoff wheel, drill and retap

you sure you dont have a kickstand cutoff switch problem instead of a clutch problem?

tsweers89

Never thought of that. Can i just unplug it and start it or do i have to jump the terminals on the plug in order fo me to test it?

jebova2301

to see if the clutch is releasing, just put the bike in gear and push it with the clutch released...shouldnt move...now pull the clutch and then try moving it(may take a bit of oomph to get the discs to let go, but thats normal). you should feel a bit of resistance, and then that goes away and it should roll freely. if not, then you may be having clutch problems.

and i dont want to sound like im being a dick, but are you sure you raised the kickstand? if its down, it wont stay running. dont be ashamed if thats it. **** happens to everyone at some point.

cadillacZac

you can bypass you kickstand by cutting the 2 wires and tieing them together.keep it pulged in and cut off kickstand.

YSRRider

when you drill out that bolt, center punch it first, then drill the center slowly with a good bit designed for metal and use cutting oil. take your time. I busted a bit drilling mine out, once it came out the back of the bolt it caught and snapped. Luckily one of my good buddies works at a machine shop and he gave me an assortment of ball end mills. Took me about 2 hours to grind through the drill bit. a drill bit will not drill through a drill bit unless its made of something harder like tungsten carbide. Its better to spend an hour slowly drilling through than an additional 3 hours fixing your **** up! once you get it out, heli coil it. I would use a drill bit that is roughly 1/3 the diameter of the bolt, and then go bigger once you drilled through.

tsweers89

I dont have a problem with the bolt being stuck in it. it that i can tighten it at all because all the threads are garbage. Helicoil was my firts thought but didnt know if it was going to stand up to the abuse of repeatedly dropping the bike and such

Towlieee

Just be carful

Many times I've taken off on my 50 or 150, poped a wheelie, rode it forever, set it down, and SLAM kick stand hits the ground

too much greenery to try and remember a kick stand everytime

Towlieee

helicoil is stronger then factory

helicoil it, its the PROPER way!

on a side note, on the LEFT side of a f4i, you can run a nut/bolt.. But on the right side you CANNOT.. There simply isn't enough room.. I found that out the hard way, and now I'm stuck with using jam nuts grinded down tell there in half.. AKA, everytime I drop my bike hard my nut breaks and I gotta replace it

jebova2301

so every time you drop your bike hard, you bust a nut?

Towlieee

I dunno man I just LOVE crashing!

YSRRider

if you can get the bolt out, do it now!!!!!! once the bolt bends, it will wedge in there and you will most likely snap the head off when you try to unbolt it. Helicoil is stronger than aluminum threads, I dont think anyone has had an issue with them coming out.