sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
#1
IDLE WHORE
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: fayetteville,nc........
Age: 52
Posts: 2,167
sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
gotta give it too ian and the rest of the crew at sick innovations.
got my new cage today and the bitch feels solid better than the bent up one i had on there and it took me 15 minutes to put it on make one phone call and smoke a cigarette but the socket monster got me so i will test the cage later today to retrieve my socket .
ian we need to talk about these ups delivery people i was expecting some nice *** blonde with big ******* and an *** instead i get this big burly black dude named bubba, no **** his name was bubba, so can you look into that so that doesnt happen on my next delivery. thank you
got my new cage today and the bitch feels solid better than the bent up one i had on there and it took me 15 minutes to put it on make one phone call and smoke a cigarette but the socket monster got me so i will test the cage later today to retrieve my socket .
ian we need to talk about these ups delivery people i was expecting some nice *** blonde with big ******* and an *** instead i get this big burly black dude named bubba, no **** his name was bubba, so can you look into that so that doesnt happen on my next delivery. thank you
Last edited by JOHN J; 12-30-2008 at 01:53 PM.
#5
IDLE WHORE
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: fayetteville,nc........
Age: 52
Posts: 2,167
#8
IDLE WHORE
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: fayetteville,nc........
Age: 52
Posts: 2,167
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
the way i see it a socket cost no more than 3-5 dollars where as a frame/ engine can cost more than a grand a piece.
oh and just so im clear about this the socket is stuck on the threaded rod.
so i will gladly sacrifice a socket.
oh and just so im clear about this the socket is stuck on the threaded rod.
so i will gladly sacrifice a socket.
#9
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
Put the extension back on, hit it sideways a couple times and it should loosen the socket to pull it out, or knock your bike over a couple times on that side
#11
#12
#14
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
F4/ F4i
First of all, open your hardware kit and lay out all the bolts that came in the kit. You should have 2- 10mmx1.25 allen bolts. These are for your left and right front engine mounts. Secondly, you should have 1 small allen bolt with a nut threaded onto it. This is for the lower mount where the 2 sides connect to each other directly behind the exhaust header. You will also find a long threaded rod. This is for the rear engine mount. Lastly, there are 2 black spacers. If you are sitting on the bike, they go to the left front and left rear engine mounts. They go between the cage and the frame.
To get started, remove your left front engine mount and the rear engine mount bolt. Do not remove all the mount at once. This can cause your engine to sag and it will make it difficult to get the bolts started. Next, take the left portion of the cage and drop one of the front engine mount bolts into the left front mount on the cage and have the bolt hanging out of the mount. Take one of your spacers and set it into the frame at the front mount location. Hold the cage up to the engine mounts and get the bolt started only a few turns. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT YET. Now you want to set the other spacer into the frame at the rear mount location and take the threaded rod, remove one of the nuts and slide it through the cage mount, spacer, and through the engine mount until it is sticking out the other side. Now you will go to the other side of the bike and take the cage piece, drop the bolt through the front mount on the cage and have it hanging out the other side. Hold it up to the engine mounts and get the bolt started only a few turns. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT YET. Next you want to make sure the threaded rod is sticking through the rear mount. Take the nut that came with it and get it started only a few turns. Now you will take the small allen bolt and get it started into the lower mounts where the 2 sides connect and get the nut threaded on only a few turns. Once all the bolts are started, you can now tighten the cage up. The tightening sequence is important. Start with the lower mount and tighten it up. Next you will go to the rear engine mount and tighten it up. Lastly, tighten your front engine mount bolts and you are ready to stunt!
#15
IDLE WHORE
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: fayetteville,nc........
Age: 52
Posts: 2,167
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
Exactly. Its a 9/16 nut. 14mm fits, but its really tight and hard to get the socket out. plus there is a tighening sequence that makes all the difference in the world for stuck sockets.
F4/ F4i
First of all, open your hardware kit and lay out all the bolts that came in the kit. You should have 2- 10mmx1.25 allen bolts. These are for your left and right front engine mounts. Secondly, you should have 1 small allen bolt with a nut threaded onto it. This is for the lower mount where the 2 sides connect to each other directly behind the exhaust header. You will also find a long threaded rod. This is for the rear engine mount. Lastly, there are 2 black spacers. If you are sitting on the bike, they go to the left front and left rear engine mounts. They go between the cage and the frame.
To get started, remove your left front engine mount and the rear engine mount bolt. Do not remove all the mount at once. This can cause your engine to sag and it will make it difficult to get the bolts started. Next, take the left portion of the cage and drop one of the front engine mount bolts into the left front mount on the cage and have the bolt hanging out of the mount. Take one of your spacers and set it into the frame at the front mount location. Hold the cage up to the engine mounts and get the bolt started only a few turns. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT YET. Now you want to set the other spacer into the frame at the rear mount location and take the threaded rod, remove one of the nuts and slide it through the cage mount, spacer, and through the engine mount until it is sticking out the other side. Now you will go to the other side of the bike and take the cage piece, drop the bolt through the front mount on the cage and have it hanging out the other side. Hold it up to the engine mounts and get the bolt started only a few turns. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT YET. Next you want to make sure the threaded rod is sticking through the rear mount. Take the nut that came with it and get it started only a few turns. Now you will take the small allen bolt and get it started into the lower mounts where the 2 sides connect and get the nut threaded on only a few turns. Once all the bolts are started, you can now tighten the cage up. The tightening sequence is important. Start with the lower mount and tighten it up. Next you will go to the rear engine mount and tighten it up. Lastly, tighten your front engine mount bolts and you are ready to stunt!
F4/ F4i
First of all, open your hardware kit and lay out all the bolts that came in the kit. You should have 2- 10mmx1.25 allen bolts. These are for your left and right front engine mounts. Secondly, you should have 1 small allen bolt with a nut threaded onto it. This is for the lower mount where the 2 sides connect to each other directly behind the exhaust header. You will also find a long threaded rod. This is for the rear engine mount. Lastly, there are 2 black spacers. If you are sitting on the bike, they go to the left front and left rear engine mounts. They go between the cage and the frame.
To get started, remove your left front engine mount and the rear engine mount bolt. Do not remove all the mount at once. This can cause your engine to sag and it will make it difficult to get the bolts started. Next, take the left portion of the cage and drop one of the front engine mount bolts into the left front mount on the cage and have the bolt hanging out of the mount. Take one of your spacers and set it into the frame at the front mount location. Hold the cage up to the engine mounts and get the bolt started only a few turns. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT YET. Now you want to set the other spacer into the frame at the rear mount location and take the threaded rod, remove one of the nuts and slide it through the cage mount, spacer, and through the engine mount until it is sticking out the other side. Now you will go to the other side of the bike and take the cage piece, drop the bolt through the front mount on the cage and have it hanging out the other side. Hold it up to the engine mounts and get the bolt started only a few turns. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLT YET. Next you want to make sure the threaded rod is sticking through the rear mount. Take the nut that came with it and get it started only a few turns. Now you will take the small allen bolt and get it started into the lower mounts where the 2 sides connect and get the nut threaded on only a few turns. Once all the bolts are started, you can now tighten the cage up. The tightening sequence is important. Start with the lower mount and tighten it up. Next you will go to the rear engine mount and tighten it up. Lastly, tighten your front engine mount bolts and you are ready to stunt!
yeah what ian said
bro i am no way complaining dont take that the wrong way you guys have been nothing but awesome.
maybe if you can get in touch with nags he can make that a sticky for future users(help and how too maintenance section). just a suggestion. you guys are still number 1 in my book
#16
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
I got allen and socket in there just a 1/4 and 3/8 drive and im set lol.... Btw on my first si the 1/4 in. Drive w/9/16 didnt get stuk but new one did...... O well still th best imo.
#17
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
yeah what ian said
bro i am no way complaining dont take that the wrong way you guys have been nothing but awesome.
maybe if you can get in touch with nags he can make that a sticky for future users(help and how too maintenance section). just a suggestion. you guys are still number 1 in my book
bro i am no way complaining dont take that the wrong way you guys have been nothing but awesome.
maybe if you can get in touch with nags he can make that a sticky for future users(help and how too maintenance section). just a suggestion. you guys are still number 1 in my book
#18
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
We'll look into it further and get it fixed to where they dont do that. Thanks for the heads up. We cant fix problems without you guys giving us feedback.
#19
Re: sick innovations, hell yeahhhh
And ian ya i follow that, but i think i need new motor mount bolts mine are ragged.
You guys are doing a great job. Now just get that 05/06 foot plate already