12 o'clock bar idea
07-07-2003, 08:25 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Dundee, Mi
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12 o'clock bar idea
i heard that if you hit the bar on an angle that you would wreck almost for sure. so why dont you guys bolt a piece of delrin or something to the bar so its not so harsh if it hits on an angle. i mean it would slide better too, thats what the make frame sliders from. just an idea. i may try. any disputes?
07-07-2003, 08:56 PM
#3
www.Redline-Xtreme.com
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tampa, FL
Age: 46
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Stainless Steel...
I would imagine you would go through those bars pretty quickly. If you can get a hold of a thick Stainless steel plate then you will be all set. If you can't save yourself from hitting the bar on a corner, then it probably won't matter what type of material it is anyways.
I prefer the stainless steel because it lasts longer, does not rust, and you can slide on it forever.
I prefer the stainless steel because it lasts longer, does not rust, and you can slide on it forever.
07-07-2003, 09:20 PM
#5
Originally posted by 900 Fury
what if someone threw some rollerblade, or skateboard wheels on a 12 bar? Just a thought!
what if someone threw some rollerblade, or skateboard wheels on a 12 bar? Just a thought!
07-07-2003, 10:01 PM
#6
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thanks for the replies. i have access to delrin and may make something up where it is easily replaced with two bolts or something to that effect. when it's done I will report back with my results. 
07-07-2003, 10:27 PM
#8
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cause you want the friction of the metal. you don't want the wheels to roll cause then it'll either flip or get all crazy.
i use a standard 12 bar out of 3/8" steel...works great, i land on teh corners sometimes and it throws me but i'm quick to hit the brake and set it down before i go down.
i use a standard 12 bar out of 3/8" steel...works great, i land on teh corners sometimes and it throws me but i'm quick to hit the brake and set it down before i go down.
07-07-2003, 11:20 PM
#9
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Originally posted by binder929rr
cause you want the friction of the metal. you don't want the wheels to roll cause then it'll either flip or get all crazy.
i use a standard 12 bar out of 3/8" steel...works great, i land on teh corners sometimes and it throws me but i'm quick to hit the brake and set it down before i go down.
cause you want the friction of the metal. you don't want the wheels to roll cause then it'll either flip or get all crazy.
i use a standard 12 bar out of 3/8" steel...works great, i land on teh corners sometimes and it throws me but i'm quick to hit the brake and set it down before i go down.
J/K
07-08-2003, 12:28 AM
#10
back in the saddle again
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well....haha, that 12 happened to go bad fast.
that was the first 12 i did and the rear peg tucked when i got up high. I waited a month and started over again and now i'm 12'ing just fine.
I just like that pic. It was from teh video of me crashing, i saw that part and laughed cause i was laying there dead as could be.
that was the first 12 i did and the rear peg tucked when i got up high. I waited a month and started over again and now i'm 12'ing just fine.
I just like that pic. It was from teh video of me crashing, i saw that part and laughed cause i was laying there dead as could be.
07-08-2003, 01:56 AM
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx
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I just trashed my bike last weekend by hitting the bar crooked. It sucks. I could have saved it but I cheezed and didnt hit the brake until too late. I just got all my parts today to fix my bike so as soon as I get the top subframe tabs welded back on, I am gonna be ready to go. Anyways, I dont think there is really much you can do that wont introduce other problems other than just landing it straight.
07-08-2003, 10:12 AM
#12
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2 reasons
There are pretty much 2 reasons not to use plastics or wheels on the scrape bar.
First off....its like glass. Just like Binder929rr said...you want the friction of steel or the ***-end will swap all over the place when you get it on the bar.
Secondly....I have also found that if you want to scrape smooth you need a bar that is PERFECTLY flat......if you look at it from the side and it even has the slightest bow to it....the bike will be all over the place.
This is another reason Steel is better......plastic contorts too quickly and the corners become rounded. Steel does this too over time but it takes longer so you get a couple months out of a bar.
I always double my bars up.......ie., I have the original bar that is welded, then I bolt another plate to the outside of it...that way when the corners get bent in, I can just take it off and bolt a new plate on......works great!!
Mellen
First off....its like glass. Just like Binder929rr said...you want the friction of steel or the ***-end will swap all over the place when you get it on the bar.
Secondly....I have also found that if you want to scrape smooth you need a bar that is PERFECTLY flat......if you look at it from the side and it even has the slightest bow to it....the bike will be all over the place.
This is another reason Steel is better......plastic contorts too quickly and the corners become rounded. Steel does this too over time but it takes longer so you get a couple months out of a bar.
I always double my bars up.......ie., I have the original bar that is welded, then I bolt another plate to the outside of it...that way when the corners get bent in, I can just take it off and bolt a new plate on......works great!!
Mellen
07-08-2003, 05:04 PM
#15
I Have Too Much Free Time
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Diddleboro , MA
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Originally posted by pink
How long should the bar be for a 98 r1, we already have the metal, but length seems to be a real issue not too long and obviously not too short, what ya'll think?
How long should the bar be for a 98 r1, we already have the metal, but length seems to be a real issue not too long and obviously not too short, what ya'll think?
you can also back the bike into a wall so that the rear tire meets the wall. make hte bar flush w/ the wall.
07-08-2003, 07:38 PM
#17
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yep
Originally posted by 1000ceecee
take a 4 foot level from the rear tire up. thats where the bar should be for a true 12 oclock.
you can also back the bike into a wall so that the rear tire meets the wall. make hte bar flush w/ the wall.
take a 4 foot level from the rear tire up. thats where the bar should be for a true 12 oclock.
you can also back the bike into a wall so that the rear tire meets the wall. make hte bar flush w/ the wall.
07-08-2003, 07:59 PM
#18
Re: yep
Originally posted by Mellen_MPZ
and then move the bar in a few inches!!!!!
and then move the bar in a few inches!!!!!
07-09-2003, 10:05 AM
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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Re: Re: yep
Originally posted by nags
definetley...... I hit my tail all the time by accident...I can't imagine hitting a bar by accident
definetley...... I hit my tail all the time by accident...I can't imagine hitting a bar by accident
07-09-2003, 07:54 PM
#20
Re: Re: Re: yep
Originally posted by MikeM
If you shorten the bar so that the bike sits at like 12:30 it will feel alot more stable when you're dragging.
If you shorten the bar so that the bike sits at like 12:30 it will feel alot more stable when you're dragging.
