trid

yea I broke a couple but they were some bad rollover wrecks so way do u expect but someone definetely needs to make a better version

INSANECRAZZY

i bought my first one a month or so ago and that arrow position thing broke on me before i even got to ride it. i used i finger to push it in the right postion and it snaped. other than that i like it so far, and everything else seem pretty solid.

Marky f4i

I jus got my msr easy pull lets see what happens im kinda dissapointed to hear this about this lever

crazy636stunter

just dont tighten it too much and it will be fine!

Neosporin

I had the line loose when I went to remove the lever, I did most of my adjusting from adjusting the other end because the adjusters felt like they would actually brake if I had too much stress on them. I had the lever adjusters slightly out so I could fine tune the feel. Didn't like how it felt (Had the clutch mounted inside of the brake) so I went to move it to the outside and for some reason decided to see if my OEM adjuster would fit, so with the ez pull off the bike I started to undo the adjuster to line it up to remove the wire and, bam.

No worries though, my OEM won't work, but this other adjuster looks promising. I just have to ride into HAI and swap out the levers and see if this adjuster works. Outside of this incident, the ez pull rocked.

Im going to revise my lever positioning in a second, I'll show you guys what's up for feed back.

jstuntlocke

this post shouldv'e ended the thread...

Stock honda adjuster and run it looser rather than tighter. do all of your adjusting down at the case. and btw... your **** looks hella far apart too??
That's going to be fun for clutch slippin too and workin the HB...... need like 6" long fingers for that set up!!! you could fit a whole nother MSR in between them!!! istead of dual caliper maybe you can be the first to run dual master!!! LOL

good luck with it.

Neosporin

Grinded down the center part and located the clutch closer to the brake. need to cut off the lever a small bit more, but seems workable. Deffinately won't be able to use the ez pull adjuster no doubt. No room for the adjuster on there now. Think there's barely enough room to spin the adjuster, but dont have to at the moment but I guess I'll find out.

SUPERDAVE

DUDE YOU SHOULD GET A BREMBO 16X18 MASTER CYLENDER. THAT WAY YOU CAN SWITCH THE BLEEDER AND BANJO BOLT AND GET A TON OF CLEARENCE. BREMBO WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE. I RAN YOUR EXACT SET UP AND WHEN I SWITCHED IT WAS LIKE NIGHT AND DAY

Beto

yeah looks better now, I would definitely use the honda adjuster, mines got the ez pull adjuster and I had to grind it down to make it work.


shitty cell phone pics...









msr and magura billet 13 mm with the hohey 4 piston, I love it

Towlieee

do you really hold on that far at the end of the grip

motopsycho231

i run the ezpull behind the brake and it seems to all fit in there good and snug. easy for two finger clutch and handbrake as well as throwing my clutch finger down onto the handbrake for more braking strength

jstuntlocke

if you weren't running the stock clip ons you'd have alot more room too.

Beto

haha yeah I do, I run my bars short and turned into almost stock position, if I put any longer bars on there the bars hit instead of the cage

mikkee

gota make sure the setting on the top piece, matches yr easy pull setting otherwise it's putting pressure on the aluminum slide the clutch cable is going through and will break it.

Once I got the top piece set wher it is suppose to, I put some jb weld all up in there to keep the tit from breaking..

Lastly replace the alum cable slide adjustment with one from an F4i.. The size and threads match perfectly, it's metal instead of crap alum.. When you set that adjuster try to set it to the outside where the slit in the slide adjuster is visible and when you pull the clutch lever, the line moves freely so it's not touching or putting pressure on anything..

Do all of this and you won't break it unless you flip yr bike upside down or somehow lands directly on top of it

mikkee

but of course you have a wak *** FI cage which puts no thought into their designs, where as how they lay down, roll to clip on gas tank or tail, and have direct impact on the front motor mount.. Well that goes for all cage companies.. GAHHHBAGE every last one of them tiger shark, fi, si, powers

905 is starting to listen, and re designing, after years of trying to explain the concept on what a cage should do, how it should work, and be designed..

Towlieee

Where do you want them to put the support if not the biggest main bolt available??

The fairing bolts?

Maybe just "clamp on"?

Beto

lol, I love the si cages but once you bend em they are hard as **** to take off and put back on, I dont drop my bike as hard as I used to so I actually like this FI cage since its so easy to take off and put back on, but the handlebars hitting is pretty annoying. Got any pics of the new 905 ****? I've been thinking about getting a tygershark again since they were pretty easy to mount as well.

You rock a homemade cage on your 636 dont you? Hows it been holding up?

*Tanus*

put the clip-ons on top and they wont hit as easy,but I guess that might not work with an upper

jstuntlocke

glue on...

no, no wait..

VELCRO

mikkee

wow

I didn't say don't use the front motor mount bolt.. It's about putting fourth effort and trial and error for design, to where the main impact point isn't the front motor mount on 75% of yr drops.. The front motor mount would be a secondary impact with a slider that it rolls to after the big impact is already absorbed somewhere else, eliminating broken motor mounts and frames because of poor design..

It's more so about placement of bends with the tubing, balancing the bike correctly to where it doesn't roll to the clipons or tail, and also doesn't directly hit the front motor mount first.. It's really not that hard.. Some bikes will be more difficult than others because of tight motor mount placement like the F4i, but for the most part it can be accomplished for almost all bikes especially the kawi's which is cake..

All cage companies out there do in regards to design changes, or newer companies like tigershark, is making them stronger with more braces, thicker wall tubing, and some even trying to make them lighter... But they are all missing the point with the design, and not only trying to make the cages stronger or lighter, but preform better and keep frames from breaking especially with newer bikes getting lighter and more fragile.. With these fabricators from our cage companies doing this for who knows how many years with cages and before stuntriding, they still havn't figured this out..

That's as Barny style as I can break it down for you.. We'll see if 905 works with us, putting them back on top the cage market where they belong. And no I'm not sponsored by them, nor do I know if I will be in the future.. It just would be nice to have a product out there that works a bit better for some of the prime stuntbikes of choice..