with the bike up to normal operating temp you simply adjust it till the clicking stops then go a 1/4 turn more and lock it down

 

if the teeth are not broke then the little tab that locks into the teeth is either rounded off or broke.

 

I've never heard of a CCT blowing a motor.. They rattle, but that doesn't mean they are broke..

At least on f4i's, 636's may be different..




btw APE manual tensoner kicks ***, gets rid of all that noise





edit: I'm not sure on 636's, but on f4i's, when the CCT makes noise, it isn't actually from the chain being loose.. Its from the CCT just vibrating.

 

the f4 i and 636 cct are basicly the same design...

when there is slack in the chain a spring pushes the adjuster out further to take up the slack and there is a locking mechanism that isn't supposed to allow the adjuster to return back in but when you hear them rattling the adjust is slapping in and out wich means it's broke i/e not working properly

 

do you have to take cylinder heads apart to get to the cct ?

 

nope it's just 2 bolts holding it to the back right side of the motor just below the throttle bodies

 

Yeah, my thinking, and the theory of the 6th gear **** is.. when the motor is spinning forward, the slack on the 'tension' side of the chain never makes it around to the slack side. putting the bike in reverse in 6 supposedly allows all the tension to 'bunch up' on the slack slide.. allowing the spring adjuster to pop out one more click. thats the best way i can describe it as it was told to me.

isn't it possible that the chain is sloppy, but not quite long enough to allow for another click out, hence the sound?

i'ma try it right now.. i'm still buying the APE manual for mine.. but moneys tight and riding is free...

 

Aren't these interference engines? if your cam hops a tooth or two in the wrong direction, it could spell disaster!

 

jumping in and out of the gas a couple times high in the revs will cause slack in the chain on both sides...pushing the bike backwards in gear is never gonna put as much slack in the chain as that

yes...

 

Yes

But the cam chain isn't actually LOSE, so it wont skip a tooth..

Its just an annoying buzzing rattling sound that you can either live with, or fix..



At least thats what I read and hear from mechanics all the time about them

 

the chain is loose when the teeth on the cct are broke and don't lock the cct in place ...the chain slapping around isn't any good for the chain or the parts it's slapping ...

also it makes your valve timming inconsistant so you will also have a loss of power

also when the chain is loose it will get abused more when ever you go from gassing it to off the gas , picture a loose bicycle chain but with a locked hub every time you go from forward to backwards all the slack will allow the wheel to keep rolling forward till the slack in the chain is gone but if the chain is tight it will be a smooth transfer from front wards to backwards ....no what im saying ??

 

seems like rolling it in reverse (moving the cam chains the opposite way they move during operation) would indeed put more on the 'slack' side since it seems like it would force it all to bunch up on that side of the gears... I duno.. but i just fired my bike up, heard the sound, killed it... rolled it backwards about 8'.. and it seems to have gone away. I'll know for sure tonight, if i make it out to the lot.

i suppose next time i'm in the engine i'm going to try this and watch the cam gears.. maybe i can see what actually happens.

 

and 31 posts on topic? thats got to be some sort of a record for SL. :YEAH

 

like i have said a couple times in this thread hard engine braking and hard excelerating is gonna put more slack in the chain then rolling the bike backwards in gear ..engine braking will put slack on one side and excelerating will put slack on the other side of the chain , do you honestly think you could create more torque on the chain then your motor ?

 

I wasn't aware that both sides were under the same tq.. i was under the impression that there's a tension side, and a slack side of the chain.. like on a dirtbike.. top side always stiff, bottom has the roller to eat up the slack.



When i see that, the chain appears to be moving towards the bottom left of the picture. You're saying under engine brake the slack goes to the other side of the chain? cause the slack/tensio side should stay the same, or all sides would have a CCT. Honestly trying to grasp what you're saying here.. i think i just have a wrong mental pic/idea of how it works?

 

look at your chain on your rear wheel , when you gas it the top gets tight but when engine braking it gets loose

 

ok i just took a good look at you diagram and read your edited post and if the chain spins in that direction then every time you hit the gas hard there would be slack on the side of the chain that the cct is on so just gassing it hard should allow the adjuster to work and going from engine breaking to gassing it hard would deffinetly put more slack in the chain then rolling the bike in gear unless you think you can create more torque then your motor

 

I can make more torque going backwards than it can.

I'ma do some reading. What you say makes sense, i just can't picture it mentally and it bugs the **** out of me.

 

what im saying is the bike doesn't have to be pushed backwards at all there will be slack created just from riding it and if you cct doesn't adjust then it is broke /not working correctly...

 

good *** info, but does it work or not and how'd you find this out????