what cage should i get?
01-31-2008, 08:30 PM
#103
I Enjoy Posting At StuntLife!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: new jersey
Posts: 1,108
Re: what cage should i get?
# First of all, you don't need a very powerful bike. My GSXR-600 has about 5X more power than it needs to clutch wheelie,so u dont need a 1000cc. You can definitely clutch wheelie a 500 cc sport bike, it just takes higher revs. Stock gearing is fine, however, with this setup it can't clutch up in 2nd. You'll need a 520 kit for that (To clutch up in second with less bouncing, try going -1 on the front sprocket, and +2 on the rear. If you buy these sprockets in 525 pitch you will be able to change them and use the stock chain).
# Sit comfortably, upright on the bike. You don't have to slide back for this trick. "It is possible to clutch up a wheelie at 70 mph in 3rd gear on a gsxr-600." This will take more practice but it is very possible.
# Drive at a steady pace around 1500-2000rpm. (should be about 10-20mph). When you are ready for liftoff, quickly open up the throttle and accelerate. This is VERY important because it compresses your rear suspension. It's very difficult to clutch a wheelie without compressing rear suspension first. You're not trying to build up speed! Starting at low RPMs is very important. If you start a clutch wheelie at 5000RPM, it will be very difficult and you'll red line long before you go vertical. Power comes from low RPM.
4. Almost immediately after accelerating, pull clutch in enough to disengage and let the engine rev to about 6000RPM. You can do this slow at first, eventually it becomes an instantaneous motion.
5. Quickly release the clutch about 80%. This is the hardest part. You HAVE to release fast. You'll know you release too fast when you RPM drops down to 2000 - this means you released too fast. Practice practice practice. When you get it right it will feel like you have hydraulics on your front wheel and pop right up (much quicker and smoother than a power-bounce wheelie).
6. Once you master this your bike should be popping up a little bit. The next step is throttle control. While releasing the clutch, add throttle. If you want to go big - vertical - and stay there - the big thing to learn is that you can not let go of the throttle OR the clutch. You will control height of the wheelie with your clutch at this point.
7. So once again.. once comfortable with the clutch release motion, start giving it lots of throttle. You should be able to keep it up in 1st gear for a few seconds without any problems. The higher you go the longer you stay up.
8. Once you get good, you won't have to rev before you clutch. Do them at the same time.
Tips
* your front wheel acts as a gyro to keep your bike straight. Don't hit the front brake! Keep it spinning!
* If you feel the bike going a little to far back, try tapping the back brake a little instead of chopping the throttle, this will let you keep your rpms up so you don't slam the front end and blow a fork seal.
* Releasing clutch too slow or not enough. You have to let it out in one quick motion, just a flick. Think of the clutch as your foot kicking the back tire. If you kick it your foot will bounce off.. if you just push your foot into, even with a lot of force, it won't bounce back.
* Practice giving it lots of throttle and more clutch. Just don't loop it!
* Using the clutch to wheelie will eventually destroy your clutch, chain, and sprockets, so make sure to check them for damage before and after each practice session.
* Most insurance companies WILL NOT cover damage done while "riding unsafely", which does include stunting, so be prepared to pay for everything you break.
* Wheelies are REALLY dangerous. Doing them on public roads is irresponsible and can easily cost you your license, or even your life. Proceed with care!
* When practicing wheelies, assume whatever object is, or will be within 500 feet of your direction of travel, you WILL hit. Remember, you have no steering and no braking whatsoever when on one wheel. Even when your front wheel comes down, your shocks are compressed, therefore no brakes until they decompress. This could take 100 feet depending on speed! Make sure the path is clear at all times!!
* It's best to learn wheelies on a small dirt bike. Street bikes are heavier and more powerful; they can hurt you more easily and are a lot more expensive to fix when you fall.
* Riders of above-average skill frequently fall (crash) when stunt riding. You don't have to flip the bike to hurt yourself badly. Trust your instincts and don't let others pressure you into wheelies or other stunts.
Things You'll Need
* helmet, gloves, protective pants and jacket. You probably won't loop your bike but be ready for the worst. Frame sliders are also recommended.
* A special "stunt cage" is available for many bikes. It's an external frame that protects the bike from hitting pavement.
* A special bar can also be installed on the rear. Also known as a 12-bar. This prevents the bike from going beyond vertical.
* Stunt riding should be practiced only on a closed course with proper preparation (gear, insurance, and someone to provide first aid and call paramedics if needed).
# Sit comfortably, upright on the bike. You don't have to slide back for this trick. "It is possible to clutch up a wheelie at 70 mph in 3rd gear on a gsxr-600." This will take more practice but it is very possible.
# Drive at a steady pace around 1500-2000rpm. (should be about 10-20mph). When you are ready for liftoff, quickly open up the throttle and accelerate. This is VERY important because it compresses your rear suspension. It's very difficult to clutch a wheelie without compressing rear suspension first. You're not trying to build up speed! Starting at low RPMs is very important. If you start a clutch wheelie at 5000RPM, it will be very difficult and you'll red line long before you go vertical. Power comes from low RPM.
4. Almost immediately after accelerating, pull clutch in enough to disengage and let the engine rev to about 6000RPM. You can do this slow at first, eventually it becomes an instantaneous motion.
5. Quickly release the clutch about 80%. This is the hardest part. You HAVE to release fast. You'll know you release too fast when you RPM drops down to 2000 - this means you released too fast. Practice practice practice. When you get it right it will feel like you have hydraulics on your front wheel and pop right up (much quicker and smoother than a power-bounce wheelie).
6. Once you master this your bike should be popping up a little bit. The next step is throttle control. While releasing the clutch, add throttle. If you want to go big - vertical - and stay there - the big thing to learn is that you can not let go of the throttle OR the clutch. You will control height of the wheelie with your clutch at this point.
7. So once again.. once comfortable with the clutch release motion, start giving it lots of throttle. You should be able to keep it up in 1st gear for a few seconds without any problems. The higher you go the longer you stay up.
8. Once you get good, you won't have to rev before you clutch. Do them at the same time.
Tips
* your front wheel acts as a gyro to keep your bike straight. Don't hit the front brake! Keep it spinning!
* If you feel the bike going a little to far back, try tapping the back brake a little instead of chopping the throttle, this will let you keep your rpms up so you don't slam the front end and blow a fork seal.
* Releasing clutch too slow or not enough. You have to let it out in one quick motion, just a flick. Think of the clutch as your foot kicking the back tire. If you kick it your foot will bounce off.. if you just push your foot into, even with a lot of force, it won't bounce back.
* Practice giving it lots of throttle and more clutch. Just don't loop it!
* Using the clutch to wheelie will eventually destroy your clutch, chain, and sprockets, so make sure to check them for damage before and after each practice session.
* Most insurance companies WILL NOT cover damage done while "riding unsafely", which does include stunting, so be prepared to pay for everything you break.
* Wheelies are REALLY dangerous. Doing them on public roads is irresponsible and can easily cost you your license, or even your life. Proceed with care!
* When practicing wheelies, assume whatever object is, or will be within 500 feet of your direction of travel, you WILL hit. Remember, you have no steering and no braking whatsoever when on one wheel. Even when your front wheel comes down, your shocks are compressed, therefore no brakes until they decompress. This could take 100 feet depending on speed! Make sure the path is clear at all times!!
* It's best to learn wheelies on a small dirt bike. Street bikes are heavier and more powerful; they can hurt you more easily and are a lot more expensive to fix when you fall.
* Riders of above-average skill frequently fall (crash) when stunt riding. You don't have to flip the bike to hurt yourself badly. Trust your instincts and don't let others pressure you into wheelies or other stunts.
Things You'll Need
* helmet, gloves, protective pants and jacket. You probably won't loop your bike but be ready for the worst. Frame sliders are also recommended.
* A special "stunt cage" is available for many bikes. It's an external frame that protects the bike from hitting pavement.
* A special bar can also be installed on the rear. Also known as a 12-bar. This prevents the bike from going beyond vertical.
* Stunt riding should be practiced only on a closed course with proper preparation (gear, insurance, and someone to provide first aid and call paramedics if needed).
Last edited by morrow; 01-31-2008 at 08:32 PM.
02-01-2008, 12:48 AM
#106
NealFoReal
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: QUEENS, NY BITCHES
Age: 48
Posts: 36,000
02-01-2008, 12:01 PM
#111
WWW.Sickinnovations.com
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Usa
Posts: 18,216
02-01-2008, 04:29 PM
#112
OneUpStunt.com
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Jersey
Age: 37
Posts: 302
Re: what cage should i get?
Finally! Trickshow figured it out... I mean the streetfighterz have been around forever... Like in this pic... (GURU IS ON THE LEFT) But they spelled his name wrong 
02-01-2008, 04:32 PM
#113
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Hot as Hell, AZ
Age: 37
Posts: 1,219
02-01-2008, 05:55 PM
#114
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Boston MA USA
Posts: 505
Re: what cage should i get?
ya thats a long time...im alot better now...i can do slow wheelies and i can ride endos pretty well with no stabalizer either thats how good i am!!!
I remember when i popped it up and i gave it a lil too much brake so i let go but i didnt come back down and i didnt flip either. i was just balancing on my front wheel for about 5 seconds and i wasnt coming back down and i wasnt even touching the brake....i wonder what that trick is called? front wheel coasting...
BTW i dont know who the streetfighters are thats why i didnt know who guru was ....i just seen that he wrote " my f4i wouldnt wheelie" so i figured he was another squid. until i seen those piks of him in another thread doing circles chillin wit all the pros. then i was like.......ahhhh ****, guru was ******* playin wit me the whole time.
I remember when i popped it up and i gave it a lil too much brake so i let go but i didnt come back down and i didnt flip either. i was just balancing on my front wheel for about 5 seconds and i wasnt coming back down and i wasnt even touching the brake....i wonder what that trick is called? front wheel coasting...
BTW i dont know who the streetfighters are thats why i didnt know who guru was ....i just seen that he wrote " my f4i wouldnt wheelie" so i figured he was another squid. until i seen those piks of him in another thread doing circles chillin wit all the pros. then i was like.......ahhhh ****, guru was ******* playin wit me the whole time.
02-01-2008, 06:13 PM
#116
What happened to my blox?
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: THE LEFT COAST
Age: 41
Posts: 13,412
02-01-2008, 06:15 PM
#117
What happened to my blox?
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: THE LEFT COAST
Age: 41
Posts: 13,412
