Wire Harness Routing
#1
Wire Harness Routing
Man, I'm just full of questions.
Ok, so my new one... and I've given this a bunch of thought. (Keep in mind I'm an audio engineer by trade, so I'm very handy with a soldering gun, and am not worried about that part...)
MY QUESTION:
Is it reasonable to snip all the leads from my wiring harness that run to my instrument cluster, and solder in an extra foot of length to the wires so that I can keep the harness under the tank, and just have one sealed up (heat shrink tubing) strand running up to the tach/speedo?
There's about 20 wires there, So I was thinking of getting a few different colors of matching gauge wire.
Then I'd snip say 4 wires... going down the line a bit further, snipping 4 more wires etc. That way after I solder, and put the heat sink tubing on, my final wrap won't have some big knot in it where all the wires were cut at once...
So basically, I'd keep down the line so that my work is along the entire length of the strand, rather than in 1 spot. God, how do I explain that... Ooh... here...
So the wires would be cut staggered like this:
lllll
llll
l lll
ll ll
lll l
llll
lllll
And not straight across like this:
lllll
lllll
lllll
lllll
PICS:
This is where I mounted my cluster. There is room there to plug in the harness, and still be able to access every screw from the back while it is mounted to the cross support.
OK
So all in all, what I'm trying to accomplish, is to take this huge harness that was designed to be hidden by the front plastics, and hide it under the tank so that only minimal lines are routed to the electronics.
How do you guys do this normally? Any pics? I like my idea, but just want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for problems later.
Last question... where should I route the wires from on the triple when going back to the frame so that they are least likely to get pinched, bent, wire fatigued etc.
- Pixel -
Ok, so my new one... and I've given this a bunch of thought. (Keep in mind I'm an audio engineer by trade, so I'm very handy with a soldering gun, and am not worried about that part...)
MY QUESTION:
Is it reasonable to snip all the leads from my wiring harness that run to my instrument cluster, and solder in an extra foot of length to the wires so that I can keep the harness under the tank, and just have one sealed up (heat shrink tubing) strand running up to the tach/speedo?
There's about 20 wires there, So I was thinking of getting a few different colors of matching gauge wire.
Then I'd snip say 4 wires... going down the line a bit further, snipping 4 more wires etc. That way after I solder, and put the heat sink tubing on, my final wrap won't have some big knot in it where all the wires were cut at once...
So basically, I'd keep down the line so that my work is along the entire length of the strand, rather than in 1 spot. God, how do I explain that... Ooh... here...
So the wires would be cut staggered like this:
lllll
llll
l lll
ll ll
lll l
llll
lllll
And not straight across like this:
lllll
lllll
lllll
lllll
PICS:
This is where I mounted my cluster. There is room there to plug in the harness, and still be able to access every screw from the back while it is mounted to the cross support.
OK
So all in all, what I'm trying to accomplish, is to take this huge harness that was designed to be hidden by the front plastics, and hide it under the tank so that only minimal lines are routed to the electronics.
How do you guys do this normally? Any pics? I like my idea, but just want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for problems later.
Last question... where should I route the wires from on the triple when going back to the frame so that they are least likely to get pinched, bent, wire fatigued etc.
- Pixel -
#2
Re: Wire Harness Routing
Wtf handlebars. My head hurts looking at that and even trying to ponder why.
On another note... I dont know if yours is the same but i just unplugged my cluster from the harness and rerouted it and actually got a decent amount of length to move it around
On another note... I dont know if yours is the same but i just unplugged my cluster from the harness and rerouted it and actually got a decent amount of length to move it around
#5
Re: Wire Harness Routing
you could run 0° clipons and get the same effect you have running db bars upside down. and yes you can extend the wires if you want to go that route. I would do away with the gage cluster because you dont need that **** anyway. to me its an eyesore to have that **** on a streetfighterd bike anyway. IMO
just tuck all your harness in front of your airbox and it will clean things up.
just tuck all your harness in front of your airbox and it will clean things up.
#6
Re: Wire Harness Routing
and the problem i see for later on is having a gage cluster where you legs/feet are going to be. highchairs are going to be very uncomfortable
i would turn the bars the right way. Extend your starter button wires to accommodate the dirt bar height and your golden.
i would turn the bars the right way. Extend your starter button wires to accommodate the dirt bar height and your golden.
#7
Re: Wire Harness Routing
i understand ur example on the wiring but what if u route the harness under or over the airbox and to the cluster u save like 2 inches opposed to going along the frame countour.
#8
Re: Wire Harness Routing
That way next time I loop, they'll be right side up. :YEAH
J/k. Every single cable, throttle pair, clutch cable, front brake, hb, etc wouldn't reach without some f*ked up routing. So that's what I came up with one day. Did a post on it. The bar position is actually really sweet with it that way, so we'll see how it works out for practicality.
Yes yes, I know... get clip-ons. Next time around.
- Pixel -
J/k. Every single cable, throttle pair, clutch cable, front brake, hb, etc wouldn't reach without some f*ked up routing. So that's what I came up with one day. Did a post on it. The bar position is actually really sweet with it that way, so we'll see how it works out for practicality.
Yes yes, I know... get clip-ons. Next time around.
- Pixel -
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