chpsk8er630

I am planning on polishing my frame for a winter project when it starts snowing. So for anyone who has done this please give me some tips for it. Ive polished the wheels on my bike and had good results. And this is what i was planning to do. Use oven cleaner to get the protective coat off. Then sand with 80 grit on the cast all the way up till 2000. and do the same for the other section of the frame but start with around 320 i think. Then whenever i get done that it should hopefully look good then i can get on to polishing it. and i know to take my time and not rush it.

Anything else i need to know?

thanks

stock05

dont use 80 grit use aircraft stripper to get the clear/paint off or dry sand it with 220 (this should be the absolute lowest grit paper you use). if you can use a DA and a polisher/sander with a wool pad and compound rub the fine grit scratches out, finally finish with mothers polish and a micro fiber cloth.


-mexican mayhem

juzslidin

i dont know anything that will get the coating off that frame besides sanding . pretty sure its anodized. i tried aircraft stripper , ez off oven cleaner etc etc ... nothing worked for me

juzslidin

chrome that thing .... no re polishing every week ill never polish a bike again .... not worth it

FrankieG

I polished anything for years and a half dozen winning show bikes,,,, and here is the process...in general...it takes time to get it perfect and experience...bet her it goes!

Tools needed
5" Orbital sander
- adjustable speed roto zip tool to fit 1/4' collet/shaft polishing/buffing wheel
(i use a milwalkee rotory tool at 22,000 rmp) works great! perfect speed!
- white/micro fiber rags
- black, grey, green polishing compound
3 - 4 1 - 1.5' mushroom shaped polishing/buffing wheels w/ 1/4' shaft
- 80, 120, 150 or 180, 220, 320, 400 grits sand paper (NO MORE)
(need about 10 - 15 of each grit in 5" orbital paper)
(can get all the sand paper at lowes)

Take off all plastics, tank and move all wires, coolant set up's bolts ect......tape around engine covers and zip tie out of the way all wires...

start with 80 and make sure it's even it will look crazy scratched but it's fine...when you get the entire area to polish even...start moving up in grit making sure all areas are sanded even and when you get to 400 the will almost look like it's polishing with out buffing.....make sure not to rush any of the grits or you will have deep scratches in the polish....

Use the buffing wheel with black, grey they green....using different buffing wheels for each color....

Make sure the frame is perfectly clean of the previous polish/compound before the next level is used.

8 - 12 hrs of work for a show quality, general nice work 6 - 8 hrs of work!

Good luck
PS...I will never polish my bike again...my frame and swingarm are geting painted....it's too much to keep up with!

kj

not anodise... it's powder coat.

Double r -D-

+1000000000000000 or paint

bikefreak600

dont sand the welds much... weak frame on stunt bike is not good!
after you aply polish on it after a while it will stay shiny and just look a lil dirty its fine for a stunt bike.. wheels are the only thing i wouldnt polish again for a bike..

martino

i can do great work on a streetbike.

about 5 coats of oven cleaner, let them sit,

go 220 320 400 600 800 1000 1500 2000 and mothers

dont go lower than 220 because your gonna give yourself a shitton of unnecesary work. go straight to the 220

JoeR1

+1 save yourself the agravation...you'll wish you never started it

Towlieee

Don't go higher then 400? Have you ever polished somthing? 400 is gonna leave a ton of scratches, it'll never look good!

Gotta go to at least 1500 if you want it to look comparable to chrome..


All just depends if your on a bumpy surface or not.. Like my old fzr, the rims have hug bumps in them and you must sand them out or they would never look right..
After about 30 hours of sanding though, look very comparable to chrome

onewheelneil

maybe this will help
http://forum.caswellplating.com/showthread.php?t=1755

blizanthimum

after you get done polishing why dont yall get the **** paint clear coated or clear powder coated?

Towlieee

that gets rid of some of the shine and makes it turn yellowish overtime

Makes for a lot less work, but makes for a worse finish

FrankieG

I have been polishing professionally for many years, it's the inexperienced individuals with out the proper tools that sand to 2000+, now if you WANT all the scratches in the frame and to use an extra 6 - 8 hours PROPERLY sanding by hand then you can use 2000 or more.

I outlined the tools that are easy to obtain and use, the black polishing compound is roughly a 220 - 320 grit but the 22,000 rpm quicklly buff out all scratches 22,000 times faster and more efficiently than by hand.
THe grey compound is like a 400 - 600 grit and the green is an high luster compound that gives it a show finish....if all the previous steps were done properly.

There are several different theory's when polishing and many work depending on the quality desired.....here is an inexpensive way to achieve excellent quality in the least amount of time......i have done the total hand sanding to over 2000 grit and believe me that is much more difficult, time consuming the quality is not as good!

I don't know of any clear coat or other material that can be used as a protective coating and preserve the quality of the polish......if I did I would have used it on my bike!

Up0n0ne

The Easy Off oven cleaner will take off the coating. But you have to to get the one with LYE in it. They make 2 kinds now, one with LYE one without.

This is the way I did it when I was learning (self taught) and it came out great. But I would listen to FrankieG, they do some crazy stuff with polishes now.
I've seen wheel co. stop and start buffing early and cme out great and took a fraction of the time.

https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/444...ml#post1371974

FrankieG

Thanks uponone!

the easy off oven cleaner and air craft remover works sometimes but takes alot of time and if the stuff spills onto any other area of the bike then you have another area thats screwed up. The chemicals are also very toxic and the fumes area aweful, i had aircraft remover eat through thick plastic gloves dripped onto my shoe, burned through my shoe, sock and my skin on my foot....needless to say a few months of pain and dr's visits....it sucked...

Also stay away from the 3m pads with the angle grinders....because the slightest slip or if you press too hard the amount of material taken off cannot be sanded down smooth.....80 grit with an orbital sander works perfect...with difficualy coatings i even have used 60 grit to start and the coating comes off very easy and FAST which is the key.....the quicker you can achieve the goal the better unless you have loads of time to spend on it!

blinkybill04

As with the Lye, MEK and **** like that, use caution using that ****. lots of that stuff if injested, too much contact with skin is bad bad ****... not to play mommy on SL, but i know of one case where someone got stomach cancer for injesting lye... okay, i'm done now.

crashtke

Any way to keep it looking shiney longer? I know mine had to be repolished every other week on my 900rr.