jrod1540

yea dont sand the frame ... use paint stripper put some coats on it and repeat till its all gone... then use some steel wool 00 then 000 then 0000 then 00000 something like that its the finest you can get and sand in a cross hatching not up in down or side to side.... this is my 954 after i did the wheels and the frame. however not the best picture took it with my phone..... also check out this link its where i learned how to do my stuff and worked out great.....

http://sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/rimstrip.html

FrankieG

Here is a PIC.....one of many...I just didn't have time to download them all but SANDING THE FRAME IS THE ONLY WAY TO GO!!!!! HERE!!!!

JoeR1

Nice Frankie, looks clear not cloudy..:YEAH

FrankieG

It Gets Much Much More Lustery....the More Experience You Get With The High Speed Buffer And How To Clean The Polish Off The Frame!

stock05

i used to use the 3m red scotch brite roll lock pads with no sanding on cast parts. i would go straight to polishing from there with the high speed buffer and a little compound and believe it or not my results were very similar to yours.

LynchMob

im in the middle of sanding my frame and man does it suck..lol well i decided to polish the neck as well..lol i probably would of been better off chroming it.. my hands feel raw as hell after sanding for like 7 hours..lol
hopefully ill have some pics of it tomorrow after its finished

FrankieG

The problem with the 3m pads is that they remove too much material and when you sand/buff after the 3m pads you will see waves in the frame when you look from the side....the blue 3m pads can be used on some occasions but for a SHOW quality 3m pads just usually cause more work....but I have tried just the 3m pads in an attempt to cut time but it just made for more work!

FrankieG

SAve yourself some time and get a 5" electric orbital sander it will save you loads of time and skin!!! It's very easy/cheap and the results are awesome and better than you can do by hand! OH WEAR RUBBER GLOVES~

If you come back to daytona...i'll fix it for you!!!! It will only take me 30 - 45 min to make it look almost perfect!

JoeR1

And use mothers billet for the final step, easier, longer lasting and leaves a nice finish.

LynchMob

i hit up most of the frame with the 5" orbital sander.. but the neck has alot tight *** spots i had to get with my hands. quick question for ya. how do u get the lil bit of black paint out that is next to the welds??? like the lil line. i tried the oven ****. aircraft stripper...neither worked.. and the sand paper just cant get in there..lol

FrankieG

you can use a dremmell, with the light brown sanding tool or a 2" blue 3m round tool/pad. the 3m works ok you just have to be real careful/light with it..

FrankieG

Actually if you buff it using the green compound all you need is baking soda on a perfectly clean white micro fiber cloth to get the excess compund off...the mothers actually will leave tiny scratch marks that will be noticable....the green compound and high speed buffer is so good that the mothers is a step back!

Buit after a few months of the polish getting dirty, wiping it off then mothers works!

Towlieee

My friend just had his entire 929 chromed.. Cost $5,600.. But it was from one of the best chrome comanys in the US.

stock05

there is no way to get it straight with a roll lock due to the fact you cant lay it flat and its only 3," but for cast parts with a **** load of imperfections they kick ***.

FrankieG

I definately agree with you..some frames have very rough cast areas and they work well for some of those applications!!!...they most definately have their place