Ok here it goes. I've have gotten tons of emails and pm's etc... on what the brembo numbers mean lately. Thought I would go through a quick tutorial for all the newbie out there who are going to ask. :YEAH


16x18 Example
Let take the 16x18 as an example. The first value which is 16 represents the diameter or bore of the cylinder in millimeters The second value which is 18, represents the distance between the lever's pivot point and the plunger that pushes into the cylinder
What Do These Numbers Really Mean?
1.)Cylinder diameter (The 16)
a.As you increase your cylinder diameter you increase the volume of fluid. By doing this, you are decreasing the pressure which results in less braking power but better feel.
b.The trade off is that since your increasing the sensitivity of the lever your decreasing the braking power which we will now discuss in the 2nd number
2.)Pivot Point (The 18)
a.As you increase the pivot point, the sensitivity is increasing but your breaking power is now decreasing.
b.By increasing this number, the pivot point is larger and now you have reduced your leverage for braking power thus reducing your breaking power

 

Does anyone know the specs for the Nissin's off of '05, '06 636's?

 

I believe the cylinder bore is 14mm not sure about the pivot distance. I'm not 100% sure though

 

pretty sure if you look underneath them it tells you a number. I think it was a 1000rr master my friend had and it says 3/4" underneath, might be the same on the nissins

 

i am not clear as to what you are saying. a lever is one of the 6 simple machines and it allows you to trade force for distance performing the same amount of work but on a different scale. the larger the bore the more fluid you will push. what has to do with the feel is the leverage. more distance = more feel and less work, shorter distance = more work, and less feel.

 

can I use a Clutch from 1000rr to rear break ..??
..thanks in advance!

 

I know a buddy that did it but was way to much work, he just already had it at his hosue and wanted to get riding right away. you better off just getting the front brake off of water bikes gota remote resivore.

 

The larger the volume of fluid the less preassure and breaking power but there is a greater dampering effect on the lever with the larger volume of brake fluid.

 

The bore is measured in standard not metric so its 3/4"(.75) that is roughly
19mm's and the pivot is roughly 21mm.....So its roughly a 19x21.....

Smaller bore does not mean less power! This is all relative to the bore size and number of pistons of the calipers...Multi big psiton calipers require larger bore masters to feed them. Smaller calipers need smaller bores....

All OEM rear masters are 11-14mm, that is the proper bore to feed a single or double piston rear calier. And thats why the smaller bore front masters work better, as the bore size is closer to what they should be...

Cant wait for my 13mm Magura

 

The smaller the bore the more breaking power but its all relative to the pivot leverage and your calipers

 

Thats what Im tryin to say You cant make a braod statement like "smaller bores = less power" without takin into account the whole setup(caliper bore #'s and size)...

If you look into thumb brakes all of them are smaller then 16mm bore, because 11-14mm is the proper bore size for a master to feed a rear single or double piston caliper....Example Brembos thumbrake is 13mm

 

I'm going to do a whole write up on the Brembo's and what everything really means because I get so many questions from people buying Radial MC's and they don't even know what they are buying half the time.

 

I still dont understand it

people tell me the 14mm shindy is junk

then people recommend a 13mm master and say its ****?

(not speakin of this thread)

 

that is what i use on my f4i and i can lock up the rear wheel with one finger. that and my rotor and pads are brand spanking new so my coasters are just pure butter. alot of my buddies have brembos and then they ride my bike and say wow your handbrake is so good.

 

Well they are probably talkin about Shindy(the brand or that specific master) being junk, not 14mm bores....

Radial master are better then regular style masters, so a 13mm reagular is not going to be as good as a 13mm radial style....

 

as the diameter goes up it decreases the pressure but increases volume meaning it's a high volume system. this increases braking force when used with a multiple piston system IE: front 4 caliper dual brakes. bigger piston doesn't mean decreased braking, ti's increased braking, less feel...unless used with a single piston setup which is a high pressure, not high volume system.

it's basic physics and properties of pressure. that's why you use a small diameter for single piston calipers (high pressure) and a larger diameter for muliple caliper setups (high volume).

you get best braking power and feel when matching the 2 systems. you definately lose feel with a large dimeter piston. then you can increase sensitivity by increasing the pivot distance....requires you to pull the lever further, but it makes smaller increments therefore increasing the sensitivity.

 

oooh ok thats good to know :YEAH

 

on my last f4i i had a 954 master and it was by far the best master i have ever ran, very good feel and braking power.



-mexican mayhem

 

they are a 19mm. when i ran 929 master, i thought it didn't have any feel too it.

 

Same deal when I tried a 19x20 Brembo, very powerfull but no feel at all....It was either full on or off, and very hard to modulate......