in this previous post https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/2-s...g-hell-my.html i thought that my new hb setup was havin trouble bleeding but thats not the problem at all.... i'm running the ho_hey bracket and a billet brembo 16x18 and the brake is soft for like the first half a pull.... after i quadriple checked that it was bled to perfection i noticed the caliper was moving on the bracket the like piston doesn't seem to be holding steady pressure against the rotor. like theres not really much steady pressure coming from the piston once you let off... so i pulled the caliper off and noticed it only take using my middle finger and my thumb to compress the piston back into the rotor. compared to the other caliper that takes using my index and middle finger on the piston and thumb on the back side of the caliper from BOTH hands to compress it. what might caus this

oh and when i push w/ my foot the other caliper doesn't move (to the visible eye anyway) but the rear one (hooked to handbrake) moves about an 1/8 of an inch when you squeeze and let off....

 

wow you got me man hopefully someone else can chime is.....are the pads rubbing on the rotor??? is everything tightened and fitted correctely?? maybe something worked itself loose?? idk man clueless

 

oh and when you squeez the HB tightly the caliper makes a squeekin noise

 

if the caliper that is hooked up to the hand brake moves when you push on the foot brake then the foot brake caliper is moving the rotor or the bracket so you need to lube your slides... and that should fix your problem

 

no no it only moves when i squeez the handbrake.... like when you squeez the whole caliper shift away from the wheel towards the muffler... and when you let off of sucks back in a little... the footbrake doesnt make it shift at all

 

ya, i'm a little confused too....the caliper moves "how"? like, when you grab the HB the caliper moves side to side when the pads contact the rotor? If so then that's ok because the caliper is going to move a little to center itself on the rotor.

if it's wobbling forward and backwards, there is an issue.

and the squeek could be a loose rotor bolt causing the rotor to flex a little.

If the caliper is new then it will be easier to move the piston back in with your hand. The old rear brake will have buildup on the piston that will cause a lot more friction on that seal surface causing it to be a pain in the butt to push back into hte caliper.

 

ok, after just reading that, that is normal. The caliper centers itself.

You don't see it on the old foot brake beause hte pins are probably dirty and the piston is dirty which wont' allow it to open up as much when you release the brake...so it basically stays in place and only opens a little. The HB on the other hand sounds fresh so when you let go the piston goes back into hte caliper a little (like it's suppose to) to remove the pad from the rear disk.

everything fresh and lubed up the caliper should move a little when you squeeze any brake that is a floating caliper like our rear brakes. If they ever stay completely still it is because of dirt buildup and they need to be cleaned.

 

most bikes have "floating calipers", they slide around a bit.

 

oh and if it makes any differance my caliper goin to my foot brake is new since this is on my 06 w/ 300 miles.... and the one goin to hb is from a 954

 

Hi Mike pm sent give me a call this is the first I have ever heard of this kind of problem but I am sure we can figure it out over the phone. Off the top of my head seems like a bad caliper

 

nah, by new i don't really mean year, more the ammount of use it's had. I take my pistons out and polish them from time to time when they start getting dirty. It causes the brakes to drag real bad when they don't move freely in and out of the caliper.

 

NOOOOOOO

it's a good caliper. calipers are floating, don't start putting that crap out there that the rear caliper is solid. I'm a mecahnic, i work on race bikes every week. REAR CALIPERS ARE FLOATING! the piston should move inside the caliper without much effort. If you have to manhandle it to get it back in, there is probably buildup on the piston causing it not to move good.

 

Which would be the same thing as a bad caliper

Maybe theirs some junk in the caliper Try blowing it out with an air hose then re bleed

 

I never said anything about a solid caliper trust me I know how they work and your right a good cleaning from time to time will keep a caliper functioning at its peek. Now I did come across a used 954 caliper that was giving a customer problems it turns out that some fluid was leaking around the piston and caused a lot of problems. The leak was due to some minor rust that formed up on the piston from brake dust build up and water etc..

 

no, that's not a bad caliper. calipers are suppose to float and it shouldn't take TONS of effort to push the piston back inside of it. The piston should move on it's own back inside a little bit when you release the brake. if it doesn't then it leaves pressure on the rotor and causes drag.


hohey, i get ya now, trying to figure out if he has a different problem with the caliper. it sounds to me the caliper is working fine and it still has an airbubble somewhere....i just assumed he would note that it was leaking if he had a leak at the caliper since he was holding it in his hand.

 

Gotcha. I still say spray air in there and maybe you'll get whatevers in there out, if anything. It wont hurt.

 

the flat o ring in the caliper is what makes the piston return after you hit the break ,when you apply the break the fluid forces the piston out and at the same time the flat oring gets twisted and when you release the brake the o ring untwists and pulls the piston back a little if the piston doesn't return then some times replacing the o ring will fix the problem ..

clean and inspect the piston for pits while you are at it and if there is any corrosion on the piston a gentle pass on a wire wheel [brass wire wheel is best] can help but if the corrosion is too bad and there is a lot of pitting then the piston should be replaced ,you can also buy a small honing stone tool at the local auto parts store and hone the caliper [light honing is all that is usually needed]

 

and also clean and lube the slides while you have the caliper off

 

all i know is that the master has play till you get the lever squeezed in about 3/4-1 inch then it gets tight.... but not tight enough to lock up the rear tire moving like 20-30mph w/ one finger... which is what this master is so famous for is it not?!?! i've bled just about every way i can not using a power speed bleeder(which NO one in town here sells) but i used to work at the local honda shop so maybe i can go up there and use theirs. i cant seem to get ANY more bubbles out though and trust me i've tried it all from takin off the master tappin the banjo as you bleed.... takin off the caliper pushin the piston in to reverse bleed it. and i'm sick of it! . i've NEVER had a problem bleedin something on the first or second try but in the past two days i've bled a total of 4 hours and i'm still not convinced all the air is out but i simply cant get/find anymore to pockets bubbles

 

if you place your finger over the bleeder while it is open it will work just like a speed bleeder just open the bleeder and hold pressure over the hole with your finger and pump away ,your finger will let the air and fluid out but wont let air back in...