Ed-o

For all you squids asking the same question over and over and over and over and over and ******* OVER AGAIN, Im going to make it easy for you. Get your broke *** to the nearest auto parts store and buy a Mighty Vac break bleeder, you can bleed your **** in 1/10th the time and you dont need a friend to pull your lever in and out 10.00000000 times, USE IT LEARN IT LOVE IT

chirpin4th

+1

Sears has them

HECK

I've used those and hand bleeding always works better for me at least. I used one of those mityvacs twice and it always left air in brake line, but to each his own.

I will let you ride my bike if you wanna check out the 16x18.. I'll try to be at dahlia sunday if I can get off work.

Mr. Hooligan

Also they did not put bleeder valves in parts for fun. If it has a bleeder you must open it not skip it couse "the air I just put in the top will come out the bottom". <<B.S. When you change sh*t at the top you must start bleeding from the top and work your way down!!
Being a lazzy a$$ will only take longer and get you pissed off.

Street Warrior

mine was $35 autozone

HECK

That entirely false. The air from the master cylinder comes out of the reservoir. The bleeder valve the re isn't really necessary at all, have you ever seen one on a non radial master cylinder? Wait they must not work cuz you can't get the air out of the top.

Insane J

when I changed my brembo master for another one, I kept the hose high up in the sky, removed the master, mounted the new one, filled it with fluid, and bled it by hand at the master.

The only thing I had to bleed now was the new master...

The whole system was still air free cause I kept the hose high up. So it does work. No need to work down or anything...

rydn600f4

i have been stuck with air in a acouple systems radial/non radial and sometimes bleeding from the banjo that connects to your hb was the only way i could get that air out and it was an instant difference...im not saying its the only way to get the air out but its alot easier than forcing it through the whole system

Insane J

+1

MikeM

its all about gravity

If you're smart enough to use it to your advantage, bleeding is simple every time. You wont need a pump, or a second person to pump the lever (unless you're really short)

However if you're not smart, bleeding is a bitch and you'll never figure out how to get to the bubbles that are trapped in the high spots. You should go back to high school and pay better attention in physics.

nyRocketkid

Hey my friend an I were gonna bleed my breaks is there a special tool to get the air out?

chirpin4th

5'8" is too short.

GSE_Anthony

I have the Mighty-Vac and it definetly saves time for me, especially if your changing to new fluid.
Haven't tried these but a couple people I know swear by them, cost is cheap so I migh pick them up. http://www.speedbleeder.com/

-GoBLIN-

better idea... two words: search button.



cause how many "what bike" "what sproket" and "what cages" are there?

Ed-o

You have to start w/ the furthest caliper from the master,So start w/ the left caliper(left being as you would sit on the bike) Pump the vac bleeder about 10 times THEN OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE. Thats the important part, If you open it up then pumb the bleeder it wont move fluid as well. do that about 3 times, Then move to the right one and repeat the same steps.

nags

I'm 5'6" and have no problem doing it myself.

-GoBLIN-

I got this little bleeder that looks like a lazer gun. You fill it with fluid then shoot it in. Works preatty well, and the force from the fluid will burp air out with lettle effort. Ordered it from a mag for like 20 bucks shipped.

boostnm3

I got something similar. Its a 1 way check valve that you attach a hose to. crack open the bleeder and pump till the fluid comes clear with no bubbles through the hose. really simply and it was only $12. motocross racers use them all the time at the track.

Ed-o

You must have really long arms

nags

I really don't... I just turn the bars to the left and reach over the seat to the caliper