first off i'll start by sayin the bike is an 01 929rr.

usually i have earls in indiana make my braided lines and buy banjos with the line(front lines, hb) but this time i went with a goodridge braided rear brake line kit. anyways the banjos the sent me seemed better (i.e. a hole straight through banjo instead of stock drilled half hole) than the stock. so i put them on and was bleeding my rear brake after taking my rear hb kit (im going to a dual caliper rear setup) and would bleed at both the banjos (top of master cylinder and rear of caliper banjo) and it seemed with the goodridge kit that every time i would tighten the banjos down they would tighten a little farther everytime and never seemed to be nice and snug when tightened down. after about 5x bleeding at the banjos to clear all the air out (besides at the caliper bleeder) i snapped the rear banjo in half! so on went the stock one again. tightened it up and it felt really nice and tight and never budged after a certain point everytime. so im back to bleeding the banjo at the top of the master cylinder and snap went it also! back to stock and a nice snug fit. they snapped at the hole drilled though the side.

im just wondering if anyone else has had trouble with the quality of the goodridge banjos? also why are the stock banjos equipped with a hole drilled half way through the middle of the banjo and the aftermarket ones equipped with a hole straight through? whats the benefit of this? also the stock banjos have a, i guess you would call it a slit cut into the half drilled hole. does this pick up the brake fluid better? the aftermarket banjos from goodridge didnt have this, why not? Cant i just continue to drill out the rest of the fluid hole cut into the side of the stock banjo and recieve the same effect of the aftermaket straight through hole? whats a good quality banjo brand for aftermarket ones?

thanks for your time everyone. i know that was a lot of questions!
-charlie

 

Nope its not the banjos or banjo bolts.....its you

I use aluminum bajos and banjo bolts and as long as you install them properly and dont overtighten them they are just as good as steel ones....Earls, Goodridge, Galfer steel and anodized aluminum Ive used them all and their all good...

One thing I'll ask you is did you use new crush washers? Becasue if you didnt that could cause a problem, but even so you shouldnt have snapped the banjo bolts...

 

Do you happen to work out? If so Im a professional trainer and my best advice would be to not go straight from the GYM to workin on the bike.. Dont go right from the weights to workin on yo brakes

 

never again...

 

dont use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to tighten them next time...

 

i dunno maybe i did overtighten them, both the banjo bolts snapped. anyways would the braking system benefit from having a straight through hole rather than the stock half through hole on the banjo bolts?

 

Nothing youll notice

 

Yeah the torque on both Goodridge and Galfer is 14 lbs, which isn't a whole lot. I was helpin a buddy out putting steel lines on for him and was tightening down the banjo bolt when it snapped. I wasn't even putting a lot of torque on it, it was going real smooth, then it started to get a little tight like some s**t was between the threads, and then SNAP. I've fitted two of my bikes completely with steel lines, my friends bike, and helped a few others and that's the only time a banjo bolt f**ked up on me. I guess my point being they snap way easier then you think they should . I'd say buy two more banjo bolts, torque them to 14 lbs with new crush washers and see if that works, it should work just fine.

 

Is that the old MSR lever?? It looks way solid. My ProRaptor is great it just gets a lot of wiggle where the cable slop adjuster screw (Is that what its called?) attaches.

 

Yes thats the old one but I also now use the PRO, and mine is also starting to get sloppy...Im planing to make a billet perch for it

 

Yeah you and Mooreport were talkin about that. I need to pester him till he makes one, that s**t would be sick.