Rear Brake...
#21
Re: Rear Brake...
once you get it to bp, you should be able to basically let off the gas and brake and have it slowly either fall forward or back....when you reach this point, gradually give it just enough gas to make it go past bp, then glide the rear brake on.
sounds like a simple prob of too much gas AND brake...use less of both once you get it up there and then you will be able to control it more. having tghe idle up might help keep your throttle constant as well.
sounds like a simple prob of too much gas AND brake...use less of both once you get it up there and then you will be able to control it more. having tghe idle up might help keep your throttle constant as well.
#22
Re: Rear Brake...
The reason your breaks failed had nothing to do w/ the kind of pads you were running, fluid or lines.
When your using alot of gas and riding the break, your heating up the rear rotor and pads that's what they do get mushy and seem like they don't work. Even after they cool down there still a little funny. When you do that you kind of ruin the pads and might as well replace them.
Use stock pads, and stock rear break line. The steel braided makes it too touchy and hard to learn the rear break finess.
Like paw paw said run idle at about 3,000. from about a dead stop in 1st clutch up to the bp right away and go completely off the throttle. Catch the bike in the BP w/ the break and you should be using nothing but the rear break to control the wheelie forward and back.
- If you have to gas it you pushed the bike forward out of the BP.
- If you go on the bar you didn't use enough break.
Do this over and over and over til your so tired and frusterated you wanna go home. I'd say in a few weeks you'll have it dn and be rolling slo idle wheelies no prob.
When your using alot of gas and riding the break, your heating up the rear rotor and pads that's what they do get mushy and seem like they don't work. Even after they cool down there still a little funny. When you do that you kind of ruin the pads and might as well replace them.
Use stock pads, and stock rear break line. The steel braided makes it too touchy and hard to learn the rear break finess.
Like paw paw said run idle at about 3,000. from about a dead stop in 1st clutch up to the bp right away and go completely off the throttle. Catch the bike in the BP w/ the break and you should be using nothing but the rear break to control the wheelie forward and back.
- If you have to gas it you pushed the bike forward out of the BP.
- If you go on the bar you didn't use enough break.
Do this over and over and over til your so tired and frusterated you wanna go home. I'd say in a few weeks you'll have it dn and be rolling slo idle wheelies no prob.
#23
Re: Rear Brake...
DOT 3 = 300 degrees Boiling point
DOT 4 = 400 Degrees BP
Dot 5 = 500 Degrees BP
Racing Brake Fluid or RBF 6 = 600 degrees BP
Replacing the brake fluid will make it not get as hot as quick, But riding the brakes that hard will make your Rotor Red Hot therefore going beyond the 600 degrees & breaking down the fluids consistancy.
EBC Brake Pads get Hot really qiuck specially doing straight away stuff like comdos or coasters. EBC does not decipate the heat very good or quick. Galfers **** as well. They dont decipate the heat that easy either. While you are learning to slow it down entirely EBC's or Galfers are a Bad Choice. As a matter of fact they will destroy your rotor as well since they get so hot they end up making groove marks on your rotor from dust or just brake paricles engraving in to your rotor while its so hot.
No thing like OEM or Stock Brake pAds from your Local Honda Dealer. They have that line in the middle of the pads of which allows the heat to dsecipate & it brakes the pads in almost 2 smaller pieces that cool off way quicker, besided the material they use is like ( Carbon Metallic as well ) but never seem to Fade or at least Ive never had the fading point get there on OEMs. I have reached the fading point qiuck on Galfers or EBC's. Example: Yesterday doing combos I was rocking Galfers temporarly untill I get my OEM/s tomorrow, Front & Back that I ordered from Motorsport on Montgomery. R&S Honda on Wyoming & Constitution has them on stock but I get a sick deal over at Motorsport on Pads. None the less after doing combos for a little while when I come off the combos on to seat standers to turn around or whatever, They were hot as hell enough for my Hand Brake not to be able to stop the bike that good. After Combos & Stuff Thats why my bike would hit the bar & Drag while doing the seat stander coasters before turning around. I was running a set of Emergency Galfers I had from back in the day... Start by running OEM Brake Pads. Even if you replace the lines with steel braded line they are still gonna fade on you with Galfers or EBCs the way that you are using the brake.
This is what I would do if I was you.... I would buy Stock Pads, RBF 600 fluid. They are still gonna fade while you are smashing thre brake but they will hold there for a longer period of time... Put it this way again..... I never have that problem with OEMs while smashing the brake for whatever trick it is but yesterday after 3 or 4 runs I would need to let them cool off cause the brakes just werent there as much. That just after like 3 combo runs. With Stock pads Ive never had that happen. Even after my 50th combo practice run. I do run RBF 600 as well + I change it every month so its not all broken down & Black. I try to keep it somewhat fresh.
On another note............. Im riding today around 3:00 pm or so. You Going??
DOT 4 = 400 Degrees BP
Dot 5 = 500 Degrees BP
Racing Brake Fluid or RBF 6 = 600 degrees BP
Replacing the brake fluid will make it not get as hot as quick, But riding the brakes that hard will make your Rotor Red Hot therefore going beyond the 600 degrees & breaking down the fluids consistancy.
EBC Brake Pads get Hot really qiuck specially doing straight away stuff like comdos or coasters. EBC does not decipate the heat very good or quick. Galfers **** as well. They dont decipate the heat that easy either. While you are learning to slow it down entirely EBC's or Galfers are a Bad Choice. As a matter of fact they will destroy your rotor as well since they get so hot they end up making groove marks on your rotor from dust or just brake paricles engraving in to your rotor while its so hot.
No thing like OEM or Stock Brake pAds from your Local Honda Dealer. They have that line in the middle of the pads of which allows the heat to dsecipate & it brakes the pads in almost 2 smaller pieces that cool off way quicker, besided the material they use is like ( Carbon Metallic as well ) but never seem to Fade or at least Ive never had the fading point get there on OEMs. I have reached the fading point qiuck on Galfers or EBC's. Example: Yesterday doing combos I was rocking Galfers temporarly untill I get my OEM/s tomorrow, Front & Back that I ordered from Motorsport on Montgomery. R&S Honda on Wyoming & Constitution has them on stock but I get a sick deal over at Motorsport on Pads. None the less after doing combos for a little while when I come off the combos on to seat standers to turn around or whatever, They were hot as hell enough for my Hand Brake not to be able to stop the bike that good. After Combos & Stuff Thats why my bike would hit the bar & Drag while doing the seat stander coasters before turning around. I was running a set of Emergency Galfers I had from back in the day... Start by running OEM Brake Pads. Even if you replace the lines with steel braded line they are still gonna fade on you with Galfers or EBCs the way that you are using the brake.
This is what I would do if I was you.... I would buy Stock Pads, RBF 600 fluid. They are still gonna fade while you are smashing thre brake but they will hold there for a longer period of time... Put it this way again..... I never have that problem with OEMs while smashing the brake for whatever trick it is but yesterday after 3 or 4 runs I would need to let them cool off cause the brakes just werent there as much. That just after like 3 combo runs. With Stock pads Ive never had that happen. Even after my 50th combo practice run. I do run RBF 600 as well + I change it every month so its not all broken down & Black. I try to keep it somewhat fresh.
On another note............. Im riding today around 3:00 pm or so. You Going??
#27
Re: Rear Brake...
Originally Posted by Schooler
not trying to burst your bubble roadrash..but you scraped?when did that happen?
I wanna see tat sh*t!
#28
Re: Rear Brake...
once you boil the fluid once it will boil twice as easy after that
I had the same problem of using too much gas and brake(everytime I tried to scrape my foot woudnt let me )lowering the position of the lever and having a little air in the line helped me alot.
nice pics:YEAH
I had the same problem of using too much gas and brake(everytime I tried to scrape my foot woudnt let me )lowering the position of the lever and having a little air in the line helped me alot.
nice pics:YEAH
#29
Re: Rear Brake...
Originally Posted by Paw Paw
gear it more! Turn idle up to 2,500-3,000. don't use as much throttle so that you don't have to use as much rear brake. ...and then use your cell phone and call all your friends and ask in person! lol
love, Paw Paw
love, Paw Paw
#31
Re: Rear Brake...
Is the BP on Gixxers really that high like in the pics? It looks like your behind BP at the coaster position but maybe thats how Gixxers are? My 636 is at that position when I coast.....
Sick sick spot too btw!
Sick sick spot too btw!
#32
Re: Rear Brake...
Originally Posted by Armenian
Is the BP on Gixxers really that high like in the pics? It looks like your behind BP at the coaster position but maybe thats how Gixxers are? My 636 is at that position when I coast.....
Sick sick spot too btw!
Sick sick spot too btw!
#33
Re: Rear Brake...
Originally Posted by Armenian
Is the BP on Gixxers really that high like in the pics? It looks like your behind BP at the coaster position but maybe thats how Gixxers are? My 636 is at that position when I coast.....
Sick sick spot too btw!
Sick sick spot too btw!
Where's the vid!
#36
Re: Rear Brake...
Originally Posted by P.C.P. Tony
PawPaw don't know shat.... Rev that biotch to like 14,000rpm and dump. Dats da way I dooz it.
#38
Re: Rear Brake...
I'm about same sorta level, can slow it right down and have scraped the licence plate but not quite got the tail yet... 444-riderz lee told me whre im going wrong, could be same for you.. that riding the brake and controlling height with a bit of throttle... i can do it very smoothly but its not the right way, gotta learn to let off the brake a bit and let the bike drop back and keep throttle steady rather than using it to control the bike.
i used to get brake fade but changed line for a braided one, dot4 fluid doesnt seem to fade any more although ive only ridden it a couple of times since changing.
i used to get brake fade but changed line for a braided one, dot4 fluid doesnt seem to fade any more although ive only ridden it a couple of times since changing.
#40
Re: Rear Brake...
Originally Posted by mikkee
Naah the BP is further forward but of she's on the gas and mashing the break that's where it will be. Or maybe the pic was taken for the split second is was back there.
Where's the vid!
Where's the vid!