Thats false it does matter even with good bleeding, the father you can put your finger towards the end of the lever the better. Its called "leverage" and it does matter, didnt say it doesnt work your way but the more leverage the better......

 

Learning something new everyday...
What kind of tricks is that break meant for on the hb?

 

You cannot work both the clutch and HB the way his are now positioned which will present problems. I know what leverage is I aced physics in college buddy. He can still get leverage by moving his clutch into the inside of the hb perch, actually he would have more leverage if he did what i suggested based on your argument. I guess we can agree to disagree.

 

whoa i can't move the clutch on the out side of the HB, its set up perfect now to where i get no arm pump and the brake is very accessible/not to close or far apart.

 

But you didnt take into account that his clutch lever has not been trimmed yet, and his brake lever appears that it has.

 

mine keeps on losing it's fresahly bled feel to it... guess it's boiling up - from over use ????

been recommended dot5 brake oil... any of you guys use it? suposed to take more of a beating before it goes off.

 

thats why i said to move the clutch perch inside the HB perch cause the HB lever was so short

 

wheeliest, thanks for postin up man, I'm still learning the HB also, I just mounted it last week, I've moved the levers around a couple times, and I think I got it cherry. I have my master on the left,(02 R1) and my stock clutch perch. I got it to where you can clutch with your pointer finger and cover the HB with your middle and index. I thought I'd get flamed, but you guys have been very helpfull !!

-

 

either way i would not beable to close the clutch far enough due to the Banjo bolt in the way if i moved the clutch out side of the brake. i try'd every possible position for comfyness and leverage and this is by far the best. i can still ajust my clutch lever Further away from the clip on with the ajustment nut if i have issues slipping the clutch and applying the HB at the same time.

 

Be carefull you might not get good leverage if your grabbing to far to the end of the HB lever or to close to the begging of it , that was my main problem with the standerd M/C's, on radial mounts the bend is F-in perfect for grabbing in the middle with two fingers, and i can fit a third if i have to,

 

oh yeah wheeliest, your first pic the res hose looks like its kinda pinched. I removed my switch by jumping my headlight wires to where they just stay on highbeam all the time, that way you can get rid of the switch up there, also, the res cap should always be a little higher than your master,just makes things a pain in the *** when sht dont bleed down right. Later man!

 

Word! I have a master off an 05 R1, but the inlet piece is busted, and I cant get it from yamaha! I'm trying to get one straight from brembo, then I'll definately go with the radial mount. The R1 master works good though, I can lock up the tire like its not chit!

 

from my understanding of a hydrolic brake system is that when u apply the M/c it push's the pistion on the calipers outward and when the pad wears the piston holds position then when u release pressure off the master the valve opens for the res and a vacume from the piston moving out sucks fuild thus as long as my bike is not upside down and i apply the brake and wear the pad down the piston will not **** air into the system.

 

my resi inlet was broke also, except for a few mm's left sticking out and i just slid the hose on

 

Mine broke off right at the stub!!! dammit!!

yeah your res should work fine, I just learned the res should be higher than the master. basically as your pad wears down the fluid in the res is going to go down, you install new pads. walla! fluid is back up. It just needs a clear passage to bleed down. but yours should work fine.

always makes me lauph when people fill up the res on thier bikes and when they try and put new pads on they end up having too much fluid in the lines!

 

u sould goto a plumbing place and get a little right angle water line fitting thats 1/8 inch for garden watering systems and plastic weld it to your broke resi outlet, and only need to keep the res higher for bleeding mainly, when i bled the system i actully held the HB upright abnove my bike in mid air n pumped it and all the bubbles came out, it was bled so well i could barely pull it in a cm & 1/2 practicly, so i had to let alittle air in. and now i can pull it in almost to my nuckles when i white knuckle it which is more then i'll ever have to to do lock it up

 

wheeliest. Nice setup. how much those asv's go for??
Are they dependable?? I had a msr but the thing stripped at the perch in one day.

 

Thats what I was tryin to say your lever is cut so your end used to be the middle and thats where you want your fingers. I dont care what anyone says its clear from the pics that if you flip the 2 your going to have your finger on the bend in the lever, way to close to the master to get any good leverage.

My latest setup feels the best Ive had it so far, I think I just need to loose the ball on the end of the clutch and it should be pimp. My HB lever is positioned exactly as it would be if it were front brake.

 

Thats exactly how mine looks, but i have my reservoir mounted on the lower fork mount area.

Do you find that the msr lever only grabs right at the top? I have mine all the way in, like yours, both at the lever and at the case and there is hardly any adjustment at all....

 

See on the ASV Lever you cannot put the clutch on the outside of the M/C because the ajuster Nut... also if u look closely u can see i had to grind down a nudge on the M/c so the cable ajuster would clear, im no where near the talent yet of fethering the clutch while doing any stunts, so its not the issues for me as of yet, but useing the clutch at the spot all day with out getting serious arm pump any more and have the HB in the perfect spot for leverage and the right distance from the clutch