f4stunna

i need some pics of the full throttle master.....

im trying to make one for my senior project at school and would like to see some more views than the one pic on thier website.

Bill McMahon

you should make a steering damper too

f4stunna

the thing with that is i would need one in the first place to take apart and figure out how it works, i already have a stock rear master to take apart i just wanted some pics of the full throttle.

TEACH C6

bill IS Full Throttle and it has taken LOTS of time, $, and ability to develop his product. pics will tellyou nothing about making one, for all intents and purposes, the outside of the maste rist he same as a stock one.

great idea for a project, but ask for a FT one for christmas!!

www.fullthrottleinc.net

the only way

f4stunna

i looked at the website.......

i am a machinst and im going to school for mechanical engineering. im going to have plenty of time at school over the next 2 semesters devoted to the senior project to get it done.


all you really need to change is the point where the resivior line hooks up to the master to accept a banjo bolt. im sure you could mess around with the internals to make it deplace more pressure but its not needed becuase people have just had round aluminum stock welded onto a stock master and hooked up a banjo that way and those work mint. we have cnc machines school and ive already taken a shitload of cad/cam so i know what im doing.


i was just curious as to what the exteriour of the full throttle looked like becuase you only get the one view on there website




EDIT: im not trying to steal anyones design, i just want to see what it looks like

Bill McMahon

What Teach is saying is correct, the outside of the master cylinder won't tell you anything, it's the inside that matters. It's the size of the metering holes, the tolerances held between the master cylinder bore and the piston, and most importantly the concentricity and surface finish of the bore. Aside from the surface finish the hardcoat anodizing process that gives the surface it's hardness, which is what translates into durability (bare aluminum would score and then pass fluid beyond the seals with any contamination or just after heavy use). If you want to talk more about it PM me for my number. Just make sure you have access to these processes, as well as the ability (by ability I mean tooling and equipment) to hit a single digit surface finish (RA number) on the bore or it really won't work because you won't get a good enough seal. To give you an idea of what a single digit RA looks like, you can't see any machining marks what so ever, the surface looks like it's been polished. This is accomplished with a process called "bearingizing" in which the material is actually formed to the final dimension rather than cut or "machined". This gives it an additional surface hardness which is only enhanced during the hardcoat anodizing process. The tooling required is very specific, and unless your shop at school does this sort of work it may be hard to come by. Much of the tooling I use for the job I had cusom made by a company that specializes in this (see Cogsdill tool). Please don't think I'm trying to disuade you. I only want to instill upon you that this isn't a cheap or simple undertaking to do it right. I'm actually flattered that someone wants to spend time to recreate something I've made. In all seriousness if you want to make this and send it to me to cut the internals I will. I'll also get it hardcoated for you (the teflon in the hardcoat improves the flow through characteristics of the fluid being pushed from the mastercylinder).

This tooling, equipment, and machine/set-up time is what makes it impossible to compete on price with an adaptor. Quality and service is the only place I can try to make up that lost ground.

-Bill

TEACH C6

can't beat that with a stick!

JohnnyP

Bill I Emailed you about a master a while ago and you said you were on a 1 and 1/2 week lead time, is that still the same as of now? Id like to buy just the master(no line) also is that possible? And does anyone know what the thread pitch is for the banjo bolts on those?

Bill McMahon

Parts are ready to ship. If you already have a line you want to use I'll gladly ship you a master without a line at an adjusted price.

f4stunna

well thanks, that was very imformative. i actually do know about getting single digit RA numbers. At work we machine medical impalnts and everything is very specific. along with the surface finishes we have to reach, most of the tolerances are +/- .001.

but i looks like i have some homework to do, and thank you very much for taking the time to let me know all that.