need help with gsxr timing and tourque specs
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: virginia
Age: 45
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need help with gsxr timing and tourque specs
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#5
You really really need a manual for this job if you have never done this before. If you know what you are doing the following specs might be helpful. The first time I did this, I didnt properly shim the valves on cylinder 4 on the EX side and ended up bending a valve.
First tighten the cylinder head bolts in a sequential patten with a torque wrench to 2.5kgf-m, or 18.0 lb-ft. Then in a diagonal pattern tighten them for the last time to 4.6kgf-m or 33.3 lb-ft. Make sure you dont leave out the washers. You also want to apply a little engine oil to the bolts and washers before installing them. You also might want to use a new head gasket. If it is fairly new, you can use the old one but they are only 30-40 bucks.
The two alan head bolts on the outside of the cylinder head need to be torqued to 1.0kgf-m or 7.0 lb-ft.
If you labeled the shims and buckets and have put them back *EXACTLY* like you took them off or made sure they never came off in the first place, put the cams in. If you didnt label em and dont know where they go, buy a manual or take it to a shop. Assuming that the shims are cool, remove the valve timimg snspection plug from the side of the engine case. Turn the crankshaft counter clockwise until the lines on that washer and the one in the engine case are ligned up and make sure its position doesnt change when you put the cames in. Now put the cams in. Now look at the cam gears. On the EX cam, look for the letter 2 stamped in it. It will have an arrow that points out, make it point straight up. Now if you look at the right side of the gear it will have a 1 letter stamped in it with an arrow that points to the right. Make sure that arrow is paralell with the top of the cylinder head. Now put the cam chain on the EX cam gear. The arrow next to the number 2 stamped in the gear pointing straight up will point to a roller pin on the cam chain. Mark that roller pin with a permanant marker. Also get a peice of wire or zip-tie and fasten the chain to the EX cam sprocket so the chain doesnt lose its place on the gear. Now count exactly 14 roller pins to the left and mark it with the permanant marker. Now line that 14th roller pin up with the arrow labeled 3 on the IN cam and zip-tie the chain to the cam sprocket. Recount the roller pins between the two arrows pointing straight up on the IN (arrow pointing at the 14th roller pin will be labeled 3) and EX (arrow point in the 1st roller pin should be lableled 1) cam gears. Count the pins again... and again... take a break and count them again.. ***Do not screw this part up or you are gonna be buying a new engine off ebay, I am talking smashed pistons, bent valves, ****ed cams, broken rods, crank, etc. - screwing this up will kill your engine***.
After you have counted the pins and are sure you are right, install the dowl pins on the head and put on the cam chain guide and the camshaft journal holders. Tighten the camshaft journal holders sequentially and then tighten them diagonally Dont get them too tight yet. Now look at the numbers on the top of the **** for some numbers, Those are the order you torque them down to 1.0kgf-m or 7.0lb-ft.
Now put the cam chain tensioner in, take that bolt all the way out of the back and take that ball and spring out and push the pushrod in and bolt the cct up to the engine, tighten to 1.0kgf-m or 7.0lb-ft. Put the ball and spring back in and put the oilhose back on and tighten that bolt to 1.2kgf-m or 8.7lb-ft.
Now get out yer metric (if you have standard feeler gauges, ill list those sizes too) feeler gauges and check your vavle clearances. Make sure they are in spec with the following tolerances or you are in for bent valves beat up pistons or loud ticking sounds:
IN. : 0.10 - 0.20 mm (0.004-0.008 in)
EX. : 0.20 - 0.30 mm (0.008 - 0.012 in)
Now put the dowel pins and o-rings in the top of the head, pour oil in the oil pockets in the cylinder head, install your valve cover gasket and put the valve cover on. Torque the valve cover bolts to 1.4kgf-m or 10.0lb-ft.
blah...
First tighten the cylinder head bolts in a sequential patten with a torque wrench to 2.5kgf-m, or 18.0 lb-ft. Then in a diagonal pattern tighten them for the last time to 4.6kgf-m or 33.3 lb-ft. Make sure you dont leave out the washers. You also want to apply a little engine oil to the bolts and washers before installing them. You also might want to use a new head gasket. If it is fairly new, you can use the old one but they are only 30-40 bucks.
The two alan head bolts on the outside of the cylinder head need to be torqued to 1.0kgf-m or 7.0 lb-ft.
If you labeled the shims and buckets and have put them back *EXACTLY* like you took them off or made sure they never came off in the first place, put the cams in. If you didnt label em and dont know where they go, buy a manual or take it to a shop. Assuming that the shims are cool, remove the valve timimg snspection plug from the side of the engine case. Turn the crankshaft counter clockwise until the lines on that washer and the one in the engine case are ligned up and make sure its position doesnt change when you put the cames in. Now put the cams in. Now look at the cam gears. On the EX cam, look for the letter 2 stamped in it. It will have an arrow that points out, make it point straight up. Now if you look at the right side of the gear it will have a 1 letter stamped in it with an arrow that points to the right. Make sure that arrow is paralell with the top of the cylinder head. Now put the cam chain on the EX cam gear. The arrow next to the number 2 stamped in the gear pointing straight up will point to a roller pin on the cam chain. Mark that roller pin with a permanant marker. Also get a peice of wire or zip-tie and fasten the chain to the EX cam sprocket so the chain doesnt lose its place on the gear. Now count exactly 14 roller pins to the left and mark it with the permanant marker. Now line that 14th roller pin up with the arrow labeled 3 on the IN cam and zip-tie the chain to the cam sprocket. Recount the roller pins between the two arrows pointing straight up on the IN (arrow pointing at the 14th roller pin will be labeled 3) and EX (arrow point in the 1st roller pin should be lableled 1) cam gears. Count the pins again... and again... take a break and count them again.. ***Do not screw this part up or you are gonna be buying a new engine off ebay, I am talking smashed pistons, bent valves, ****ed cams, broken rods, crank, etc. - screwing this up will kill your engine***.
After you have counted the pins and are sure you are right, install the dowl pins on the head and put on the cam chain guide and the camshaft journal holders. Tighten the camshaft journal holders sequentially and then tighten them diagonally Dont get them too tight yet. Now look at the numbers on the top of the **** for some numbers, Those are the order you torque them down to 1.0kgf-m or 7.0lb-ft.
Now put the cam chain tensioner in, take that bolt all the way out of the back and take that ball and spring out and push the pushrod in and bolt the cct up to the engine, tighten to 1.0kgf-m or 7.0lb-ft. Put the ball and spring back in and put the oilhose back on and tighten that bolt to 1.2kgf-m or 8.7lb-ft.
Now get out yer metric (if you have standard feeler gauges, ill list those sizes too) feeler gauges and check your vavle clearances. Make sure they are in spec with the following tolerances or you are in for bent valves beat up pistons or loud ticking sounds:
IN. : 0.10 - 0.20 mm (0.004-0.008 in)
EX. : 0.20 - 0.30 mm (0.008 - 0.012 in)
Now put the dowel pins and o-rings in the top of the head, pour oil in the oil pockets in the cylinder head, install your valve cover gasket and put the valve cover on. Torque the valve cover bolts to 1.4kgf-m or 10.0lb-ft.
blah...
#7
yeah, takin the head off is no joke. Its not so bad after you do it a couple times to get the hang of it. You really must have a manual for these jobs or you are gonna make expensive mistakes. Good luck!
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